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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 13th November 2008, 13:48
sconcia sconcia is offline
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Default Changing priorities (and engine)!!

Hi all,

Progress has been unimaginably slow since I bought parts 1 and 2 of this kit, mainly due to house DIY, wedding and a new baby. With different priorities, I'm trying to be realistic about ever getting this project done.

I'd originally planned to go the Type-R route but having read some of the issues around this, I'm thinking I need to stick with a simpler engine.

Trouble is, it's so long since i bought the kit that I forget which bits are Type-R specific. I think it's just the engine mounts and the exhaust. Does that sound right?

And am I correct in thinking a 1.6 or 1.8 K-series is going to be the most straightforward (and cheapest)?

Cheers,
Sconch
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  #2  
Old 13th November 2008, 13:50
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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don't worry, i've been building mine since April 2003!!
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  #3  
Old 13th November 2008, 16:14
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limpabit limpabit is offline
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Depends on what bits you already have. You would need to get a bubble donor for a start. With a good engine. Or T series turbo if you still fancy the power of the honda. But would need to go chargecooler route etc.

Before you make up your final mind about the engine, I would go for a test drive in some.

Put you location with your name. May be a bit late in the year, but I would really recommend it.

Here is a map where everyone that wanted to be know are:

http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?ie=...524c1d8abf&z=6
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  #4  
Old 13th November 2008, 16:38
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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might be being stupid, but how do you add yourself to the map?
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  #5  
Old 13th November 2008, 16:44
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Hi Chris.

No, your not stupid. PM me your rough area where you live, a picture of the car and spec on photobucket or similar.

And I'll do the rest.
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  #6  
Old 13th November 2008, 17:09
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alackofspeed alackofspeed is offline
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your profile says Southampton - is that accurate?

If so, there's a chap nr Southampton with a k-series - might be only a 1.4 though. He goes by the name of daftbadger.

I'm not far away (Type-R), nr Wimborne. I'd happily play devil's advocate and take you for a ride in mine.

What "problems" have you read about the type-r? Other than a few bespoke things (I wouldn't advise using the Marlin mounts, if yours are the same as I was supplied with), there's no problem as such. It just won't be the cheapest route.

How old is your chassis? If it's the earlier design rear end, then you'd be well advised to speak to Big Rich and get the shopping list of parts to resolve the back end - it's about 」160 (I think), and from what Craig has said, the difference is massive.
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  #7  
Old 13th November 2008, 18:13
sconcia sconcia is offline
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Southampton's pretty accurate. About 10k north of there really.

My brother-in-law lives in Wimborne and we do visit occasionally. So might leave the family there and take you up on the offer of a ride at some point thanks.

The problems/issues that spring to mind are:
exhaust not fitting
hydraulic clutch recommended
engine mounts not great
problem with driveshafts (might have made that one up but I seem to remember someone did them differently!!)
which ecu solution to take

Actually that's not many, and a couple of years ago I probably would have seen them as challenges rather than problems. But also at last one person mentioned the twitchiness of the chassis. And I guess if the chassis twitches I'd rather it did it with 120hp, than just as 200hp of vtec kicks in!!

I suppose the overall issue is that although I'm good at following instructions, I don't have the experience to sort things out differently. So for example, the fact that the spliine of the uj on the steering column doesn't match the steering rack means I need to find a different column I believe. But I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for and so it brings things to a grinding halt. I just want to avoid things like this as much as possible really.

And my chassis is 2 years old (so big thanks to chrislandy for making me feel a bit better!!). Not sure which type it is.
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  #8  
Old 13th November 2008, 18:35
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Beleive me mate. There is plenty of help on this site. To help (give you kick up the a***). I mean help.

We have all been there. Lack of motivation. I'm an IT guy by trade, and never been any good at DIY, let alone build a car when I started. To gain that motivation, I found going out in another car gives you that kick.

And I'm sure if your really stuck, John (alackofspeed) would pop along.

First things first. Get you engine choice sorted. Then we can start on the challenges/problems.

Quick look on ebay, for a steering column.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-200-214-...1%7C240%3A1318
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  #9  
Old 13th November 2008, 20:12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sconcia View Post

The problems/issues that spring to mind are:
exhaust not fitting
hydraulic clutch recommended
engine mounts not great
problem with driveshafts (might have made that one up but I seem to remember someone did them differently!!)
which ecu solution to take

But also at last one person mentioned the twitchiness of the chassis. And I guess if the chassis twitches I'd rather it did it with 120hp, than just as 200hp of vtec kicks in!!
Exhaust problem is easily solved! make one yourself!! this is what both John and I ended up doing and it onlt takes a few hours

Hydraulic clutch pretty easy! I had some horrible problems with mine but that was down to incorrect hose size

Engine mounts from marlin are fine but you need to add a rear mount to steady engine, lots of photo's of these in various threads

Driveshafts have all been fine (touch wood)

Ecu very simple hondata only way to go

And lastly chassis twitching is easily sorted for about 」130 so don't let this put you off

You will be very dissapointed with the 1.6 me thinks

Craig
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  #10  
Old 13th November 2008, 21:46
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There's a very obvious engine suggestion..... that shouldn't be stupidly expensive, and will tick all the boxes.

Follow the same path as John (Limpabit), and fit a VAG 1.8t engine and gearbox.
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  #11  
Old 14th November 2008, 07:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alackofspeed View Post
There's a very obvious engine suggestion..... that shouldn't be stupidly expensive, and will tick all the boxes.

Follow the same path as John (Limpabit), and fit a VAG 1.8t engine and gearbox.
Yes it is a good engine. But I'm beginning to find out, it's beginning to cost to get the job done properly. No different to the T16 turbo though. Chargecooler, baffled sump, injectors, fuel pump and possibly fuel tank. All depending on power.

Though engine itself, with box etc was near the 」1k mark. This is for 180BHP.
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  #12  
Old 14th November 2008, 08:20
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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whereas it's about a thrid of that for the t16 inc gearbox... old tech vs new tech really...




I do like the audi lump though...
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  #13  
Old 14th November 2008, 09:16
sconcia sconcia is offline
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Thanks for all the words of advice.

I知 not a big fan of turbo engines and the VAG in particular is too cheap to tune up to levels that would leave me in a ditch!!

So its either go for the honda engine, or go for the K-series (and change my daily car for an Integra for my dose of vtec madness!!).

I知 being tempted back towards the Honda, despite thinking making my own exhaust is a bit beyond my current skills, unless I can make it out of MDF!!

Anyway, one of the next things I値l need to do is the clutch so I値l start a new thread later with all sorts of stupid questions about hydraulics.
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  #14  
Old 14th November 2008, 09:34
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There are no stupid questions when it comes to kit car building.

I'd suggest go for a ride in Steve's (sdm..1.6 K) and John Dry's (Honda type R) to compare. Both not too far away for you to compare.

Custom exhausts.

Found this.

http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/downl...-catalogue.pdf

Don't look too bad.

But don't Marlin do them?
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  #15  
Old 14th November 2008, 12:40
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alackofspeed alackofspeed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sconcia View Post

I知 being tempted back towards the Honda, despite thinking making my own exhaust is a bit beyond my current skills, unless I can make it out of MDF!!
It's easy enough to do. If you can't weld / don't have access to a welder, you can always do what a friend of mine did, and cut mandrel bent peices to shape, strap them together with gaffer tape, and then take the assembled creation to a local welder.
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Old 14th November 2008, 14:48
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Default The Choice

Its alright you Honda boys talking up the installation but I lay odds on the fact that if you have a donor Rover, with working components, i.e. engine, G/B, ecu, Speedo, pedal box, engine wiring loom and a whole lot of other minor but significant bits its easier and more straight forward to stick with the Rover until after the SVA.

The Honda installation is not as easy as the basic Rover, is what I am saying not that its better or worse, I am just being honest.

In fact I would go one further and say use an MGF as the donor but that痴 a personal choice I would have made if I knew then, what I know now.

I do not expect my 1.8 vvc to be slow, I have talked to 1.6 owners and they are happy with it as a road going car.

If you want track thrills then that's a different technical delivery.

Fit standard brakes, wheels, hubs, lights everything you can from the donor or your costs will soar to the heavens.

The clue is to make life as easy as possible for yourself given the fundamental issue that you will get with the build anyway.

Rear suspension I suggest if you have the 90mm between top mountings upright for the rear you take that issue up with Marlin. They know its dangerous at speed to fit them and should under duress change them for the improved configuration, and that goes for a lot of other builders, complain to the supplier before you fit them, you now know what the effect will be if you continue, its documented widely.

Fitting a hydraulic clutch is a good option but only easy if you have the right bits, fundamentally, if your donor G/B is hydraulic and you have the mounts and the slave; its straight forward. Double the problems/issues and cost every bit you take out of that equation.

Under no circumstances would I advocate anyone trying to close down the column spines onto a smaller splined shaft unless you are a masochist looking for a future ditch or tree to run in too.

I have a spare Rover 200 steering column with two ign keys and a set of clear lens Pug headlights for sale, if you are interested. I am in Somerset so not too close but in the right area of the country.


eaa53
(JohnC)
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  #17  
Old 14th November 2008, 15:05
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You bring up a good point.

Do you have a donor already?

Not sure about MGF though. As I would assume it uses metro outer CV joints/hubs.
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  #18  
Old 14th November 2008, 12:27
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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I know a very reasonable custom exhaust place in cardiff, all stainless too
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  #19  
Old 14th November 2008, 22:11
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You can argue the merits of any route.

If you plan to go on track, then I really wouldn't bother with anything less than 200bhp. If you want drive on the road, then really any engine option will suffice.... but whatever you do, you really, really, must get the suspension modified (assuming you have an early spec pair of uprights). My car was a complete dog to drive at SVA time, but having sorted the suspension it's now an absolutely joy to slide it around on track. 200 bhp and sub standard handling, or 100bhp and great handling - I'd take the latter any day.
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Old 15th November 2008, 07:27
chrislandy chrislandy is offline
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thing is if you fit a k, you can always fit a bigger one later as long as you use the same gearbox, all the mounts should be the same.
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