Oxford build - Page 3

oxford1360 · #41 30th June 2012, 18:17

More boring photos for you guys, but morale boosting ones for me. As the weather is not playing ball, I stripped the swing spring in readiness for cleaning and a coat of something, and I have de-bushed the suspension. A full polybush set will be going in once the components have been blasted and painted.

Special tool no. B0110CKS made from a 4" vice, two box sections and a bit of steel tube.

Thoroughly de-bushed.

Items ready for blasting and painting.

I told you that they were boring. It's your fault for reading on.

Despite the element of tedium attached to these specific tasks, I am loving every minute of the project.

Mister Towed · #42 1st July 2012, 09:36

All the time consuming prep work will be worth it in the end. These donor cars are all at least forty years old and are mostly overdue a thorough refresh. Once done though, your car will be as reliable as a modern car while having ten times the charm. Just driving my moon buggy in and out of the garage makes me feel like a proper hero. On the road it's going to feel like I'm the reincarnation of Fangio, even if I'm holding everyone up behnd me.

Keep up the good work.

Paul L · #43 2nd July 2012, 06:40

Nothing boring about build photos and your "special tool" photo might help others.

I'm sure once those parts have been through the "rabbit hutch" they will look great.

Whilst I've tried to avoid this sort of work by starting with a semi-restored donor...

I have to admit I love the way you (& others) are bringing cars back from the dead.

Good luck, Paul.

Mister Towed · #44 21st July 2012, 19:23

Any progress to report over the last few weeks?

oxford1360 · #45 21st July 2012, 20:54

Thanks for asking Mr T. I was just transferring pics from my phone when I read your post.

The last few weeks have been a bit frustrating - weather and jobs that need doing around the house. However, I've managed some blasting, electro cleaning (efficient and highly recommended), and wire brushing. I've also bought a few more parts to add to the stock cupboard.

Today I sorted out my compressor, piping the air in the workshop, and my spray guns.

The pics below cheer me up no end as I have some primed parts.

I'm using Rustoleum and it goes on a treat.

The good thing is that all the bearings and bushes to be used are new, so once everything has been primed and top-coated, it should be a case of big boy's meccano to get it back to a rolling chassis. I like that idea.

Mister Towed · #46 21st July 2012, 21:16

Looking very nice indeed.

oxford1360 · #47 5th August 2012, 16:39

Just to prove that I am doing something other than watching Team GB racking up the medals, here's a pic from this morning. Remaining suspension items blasted and treated prior to priming.

I should have the chassis finished and primed by next weekend. Blasting with a DIY 20 gallon pressurized blaster is like colouring in the chassis with a marker pen. It's great for components, but chassis and bulkhead are taking the p*ss.

Colour arrived this week........

Mister Towed · #48 5th August 2012, 18:24

Blasting is time consuming but satisfying work and well worth all the effort.

So, what colour arrived this week?

oxford1360 · #49 5th August 2012, 21:07

I wanted a "traditional" and "retro" green that is lighter than the traditional group that is considered BRG. I also wanted to have everything the same colour - chassis, suspension, engine, box, brake calipers, body....the lot. So, I needed to be able to match with a high temperature caliper and engine paint. I settled on BS381C-217.....enamel. The reason for this is...........

If you read about the early privateer race teams, they would paint their cars with whatever paint they could get hold of - quite often "borrowed" from agricultural and railway companies. I once read about a small team that used a green that LMS used on its buildings. "Sea Green" was used by a few railway companies on their buildings.

It's not going to be everybody's cup of tea, but I like it.

I might contrast it with a cream rocker cover and a cream nose band, but I'll worry about that later.

This is a rough approximation, but it will depend on your monitor settings -

Current plan is tan 1950s seats.

All good fun.

Actually, it's not real enamel, it's Rustoleum Alkythane 7500 that is good on steel and GRP. It has some flex in it.
This is it -
http://www.promain.co.uk/product/Rus...kythane_id3110

Mister Towed · #50 5th August 2012, 21:40

That'll look great, I think the eau de nil would work too. I like the idea of a subtly contrasting nose cone...

oxford1360 · #51 5th August 2012, 21:43

Ah, it would have been Eau de Nil if I could have found high temperature in that colour.

BazMason · #52 5th August 2012, 22:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

That'll look great, I think the eau de nil would work too. I like the idea of a subtly contrasting nose cone...

Is this a hangover from your RAF days Mister Towed? If I remember right Eau De Nil signifies a smoke charge?? Nice colour though.

Mister Towed · #53 6th August 2012, 09:08

Ha Ha. Yes, I think you might be right there. I used to know the colour codes and fuse types for all our weapons (and the Soviet's) but it's been a long time...

Fascinating subject though as getting it wrong in the field could be catastrophic - we lost at least one ship in the Falklands because the RN EOD team that were trying to defuse a bomb didn't correctly identify it and it went off while they were trying to take the fuse out. Not their fault though, they didn't have the relevant training.

This link could provide some inspiration for Cordite colours. Deep Bronze Green anybody?

http://www.scribd.com/doc/36115048/D...ckages-UK-2007

Paul L · #54 6th August 2012, 18:28

Oxford1360 - Nice colour choice.

Something at that end of the green range made it to my short list.

All your painted parts are going to look great when you put it all back together.

Good luck, Paul.

lancelot link · #55 6th August 2012, 18:42

EXCELLENT COLOUR CHOICE....

I look forward to seeing this one develop.....

oxford1360 · #56 11th August 2012, 14:01

How do you get your seats to look about 50 years old?

Well, I spent the morning skinning an old sofa and chairs. I now have about 8 metres of tan leather that I (or an upholsterer) might be able to apply to some bomber seats and a head rest.

An example of it can be seen here. This will clean-up to a lighter tan. The backs of the sofa and chairs are too good - they don't look old enough even if they have been in use for half a century.

Next pictures should be of a primed chassis! Colour will go on after my holiday.

It's funny how certain tasks are significant. I know that when I fit the diff to the chassis, I will feel that construction has begun and another corner has been turned. September should be fun.

oxford1360 · #57 15th August 2012, 17:11

This is what I plan to model my seats on (without the rear hydraulics!).

This will be a project for those dark evenings from December to February.

They will be a ply/aluminium mix, with my leather being used to cover pad inserts. I will make the base fit wherever it has to, and will keep it as shallow as possible.

The seat bases on the MkI Spitfires were made from a paper/resin mix. Not sure they would have passed an SVA test.

I may even include the flare holders along the front. I should be able to fit a small can of coke in them.

davecymru · #58 15th August 2012, 19:11

If you don't include the flare holders i'll be upset!

garyh · #59 16th August 2012, 13:18

Oxford, I keep looking at old leather sofas...

oxford1360 · #60 16th August 2012, 14:02

It becomes addictive. You start looking at contours on sofas and think to yourself, "That's the shape I'm looking for." Before you can get out your Stanley knife, the owner of the antique shop is telling you to stop and threatening to call the police. What has the world come to?