Chassis treating/painting/rust proofing

[WorldClassAccident]

Once you get your chassis into a reasonable state what do you paint or coat it in?

Assuming you haven't managed to remove every speck of rust I guess there has to be some kind of rust treatment rather than simply slapping paint onto a slightly rusty chassis.

Anyone used POR-15?

They speak very highly of it in the adverts and the video looks like it bonds well (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProdu...5&brandCode=Z7) as he hits the exhaust with a hammer at the end of the clip.

[GreatOldOne]

I've used POR-15 on my Marlin:

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Gooster...nt_begin!.html

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Gooster...kiving__2.html

It's brilliant stuff. Hard as nails, and as easy to use as Hammerite. I've done my rear suspension, diff, drive shafts and other bits and bobs with it.

You can also get it from Frosts:

http://www.frost.co.uk/

Along with POR15 thinners.

[WorldClassAccident]

In the video they show the marine clean then the metal prep and then the POR-15 rust paint. I assume you need to go through those stages.

Any idea how much I will need to do a TVR chassis and other bits that would benefit?

[davecymru]

I used Jenolite as I'd used to it on an old Capri i once had and i knew it worked "for me"

Then it was a case of painting with Chassis Black paint.

[GreatOldOne]

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

In the video they show the marine clean then the metal prep and then the POR-15 rust paint. I assume you need to go through those stages.

You don't need to use marine clean. Or metal prep. I did use metal prep in earlier on in my resto, but didn't bother later on. As long as the metal you're painting is grease free, you can paint direct to metal.

[cbjroms]

I had my Herald chassis blasted and then used POR15.

I did use the Marine Clean & Metal Ready first as I had read reports of the POR15 peeling-off when put onto bare metal.

POR15 is a little tricky in that it claims there to be a narrow window of time between coats unless you opt to prime again. I did actually tend to use the POR15 self-etch primer as I left the chassis some days between coats.

The POR15 itself gave a very imrpressive finish - hard and shiny (gloss black). I then used the silver topcoat and feel that it has a much softer (ie easily scraped) finish.

Just my thoughts.

Chris

[Nick59]

I used Bilt Hamber products :- link below

http://www.bilthamber.com/search-pro...sion%20Removal

I have previously used De-ox gel & dipping bath and Hydrate 80 on the chassis on my build prior to Hammerite. Its reasonable cheap and I left it on my TVR chassis and components for about 5yrs without painting we no sign of rust "re-growth"

They also do an Epoxy Mastic 2 part chassis paint which is the dogs naggers (but I already had a gallon of Hammerite)

Must say I am going off Hammerite it doesn`t seem to be as good as it used to....I think its all those tree huggers that have forced them to remove those chemicals that actually worked!

Bring back lead based paint!

[mashtun]

I used POR-15 last year when repainting my Cabrio chassis. I used the grey colour (three coats, I think, working on smallish areas at a time) and then put Chassis Black on top. The POR-15 does seem remarkably tough (I've got various suspension bits that have POR-15 on them but haven't been top-coated) but I've chipped the Chassis Black on a couple of thinnish edges - made me think I'll put something over the top of that where stone chips are liable to hit.

As for coverage, I think the coverage rates they claim were about right. You could have fun working out the surface area of your TVR chassis though

[garyh]

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

Once you get your chassis into a reasonable state what do you paint or coat it in?

Assuming you haven't managed to remove every speck of rust I guess there has to be some kind of rust treatment rather than simply slapping paint onto a slightly rusty chassis.

Anyone used POR-15?

They speak very highly of it in the adverts and the video looks like it bonds well (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProdu...5&brandCode=Z7) as he hits the exhaust with a hammer at the end of the clip.

when you use the Metal Ready, it says to keep it damp for 20mins... what about a whole chassis?

[WorldClassAccident]

I used POR-15 on the Scimi chassis. No metal etch but did small areas at a time so each took about 20 minutes