The Kebab - Page 21

ericholm · #**401** 2nd April 2016, 12:15

Thanks Bob! nice touch......

hurnleft · #**402** 2nd April 2016, 12:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nubodi Automotive

Call me if you have any questions
01189833709
07779 365 24 7
Always here for advice

Thanks Richard.

hurnleft · #**403** 3rd April 2016, 16:11

Made the wooden bases for the door panels. The top doesn't line up from the door to the window frame as it got nearer the front so I made a wooden spacer which is fitted to the back.
The van lining material is just the padding as I had plenty but didn't have any foam. Diamond pattern vinyl I bought a while ago will go on later. The handles are auto jumble stock and the chrome strip is from a scrap XJS Jaguar door trim.

I've also started on the rear parcel shelf. It's a boot carpet from something or other. It's thick so is being used a a base to cover the many lumps and bumps in a Z3.

As usual, lots of started jobs. If they go well and I reach a good point to stop, I do something else. That way I always look forward to getting back out there again. Odd way of doing things perhaps, but it works for me.

molleur · #**404** 3rd April 2016, 16:17

Looking good!
Like the XJ door trims, great idea.

Jaguartvr · #**405** 6th April 2016, 14:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by smash

Born and bred in Hadleigh! There are a lot of these specialist shops round Essex that you never hear about - I didn't know about one on Canvey. The guy who's doing my mouth and bumpers is in Hawkwell and has built some amazing stuff - this is restoration he did on a DB2

Bumpers, very interesting. Are they going to be 1/4 or full bumpers?

I have someone who can chrome plate GRP, he could probably do the 1/4 bumpers but not a full bumper as they have to go into a vacuum chamber.

What's the chance of taking a mold before they are fitted? Would save me having to follow you everywhere until you parked up in Sainsburys

hurnleft · #**406** 6th April 2016, 15:10

The car is at the workshop today as the drivers side now won't lock/unlock from inside or outside. Once Mike's sorted that, he'll put some sort of emergency release in in case it happens again.

I had a little time today so decided to make surrounds for the inner door handles. A cut out some scrap alloy plate and thought I'd add the badges as there's only one Italia badge on the grille, so not too much to spoil the simple appearance.

Just need to drill some mounting holes for the plate and vinyl the door trims and it's another job ticked off.

Bob.

lancelot link · #**407** 6th April 2016, 16:59

Shaping up very nicely ....

Jeff H · #**408** 6th April 2016, 17:37

Hi Bob,

What are the catches on top of the sills ? they look like they locate the bonnet as it comes down ? if so any chance of a close up please ?

Also would be very interested in what you are going to do regarding a way of opening the door if the blip fails, or central locking fails.

This is a head scratcher for me as my blip does not work, the central locking works but only on the key, Chris tells me the mini door handles do not, or are not able to work the BMW locking mechanism.

Jeff.

Jaguartvr · #**409** 6th April 2016, 18:57

I was thinking either a thin cycle inner cable attached to the door handle mechanism and threaded through the door edge along with the door wiring ending in the front wheel splash panel with a loop in the end to pull.
Or option 2, the same idea but with electrical wiring spliced into the solenoid, again ending in the front wheel well splash panel. In case of flat battery or central locking failure you just attach power to the positive and earth to operated the solenoid. Wire up both doors as a belt and braces approach.

lancelot link · #**410** 6th April 2016, 19:13

I have used a VW type 2 Camper choke cable in the past as a backup door release ...exactly as Jagtvr says in the front wheel arch ..the Campers have a nice long cable which was all we could find years ago , but lots of vehicles have cable boot release fitted now , so other scrapyard options are available.

hurnleft · #**411** 7th April 2016, 06:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by molleur

Please do so. No big hurry, thanks!
Really liking your car, been following since the beginning.
Wish we could get it here in the USA.

Hi, I've been trying to get more details from the paint supplier about the colour mix. I took a while for them to say they would let us have the formula as it was going abroad, but when they found out you were in the USA they said there was no point as the type of paint they use is illegal where you are.

Oh well, we tried.

Hope you find something similar as I'm very pleased with it and all who've seen the car say it looks right on the period of car.

All the best, Bob.

Cheers, Bob.

Jaguartvr · #**412** 7th April 2016, 07:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff H

Hi Bob,

What are the catches on top of the sills ? they look like they locate the bonnet as it comes down ? if so any chance of a close up please ?

Also would be very interested in what you are going to do regarding a way of opening the door if the blip fails, or central locking fails.

This is a head scratcher for me as my blip does not work, the central locking works but only on the key, Chris tells me the mini door handles do not, or are not able to work the BMW locking mechanism.

Jeff.

This is for the E46 which I would presume is the same procedure as the Z3

Get into your BMW, shut the door and put your key in the ignition. Turn the key between the on and off positions five times as quickly.

Push the "Unlock" button on your E46 key and hold it down while pushing the lock button three times. At this time your BMW's door locks will lock and unlock, which signals that you've successfully completed the programming process.

Finish programming your E46 key remote by turning your BMW on and off.

Again I'm not sure about the Z3 but the E46 key has a rechargeable battery, it is recharged when it is in the ignition and the car is running. If the car hasn't been used much the key will need to be recharged first. One of mine was flat and I just let it in the ignition for 20 minutes with the car running and I was able to reprogram it.

Nubodi Automotive · #**413** 7th April 2016, 07:54

Out of all the Z3's we have come across, probably 50% the remote central locking do not work off of the original remotes. This is definitely a weak spot on these cars.

The receiver for the alarm signal, believe it or not is in the rear view mirror. If you have replaced this you need to take the mirror apart and get the circuit board out with the pick up aerial on. Then reconnect this to the loom in the plastics above the mirror. It will just fit in behind with a push.

The problem we think is the circuit board in the remote fails due to general wear and tear. These are rare new and will need expensive reprogramming. What we do is get our local Auto locksmith in (£30) and he fits a universal remote system (ebay £10 with 2 remotes). Job done. Its the quickest and easiest way and we can concentrate on the build.

You can get the mini handles to lock but you need a set of secondhand ones with the complete mechanism. When you buy them new the important bit is generally missing. This is a sliding mechanism which needs to be cut down to fit into the hole for the handle. When the key lock is in the unlocked position the button goes in to open the Z3 mechanism. When you lock it with the key the slider comes down and does not allow the button to go in, effectively locking the door.

hurnleft · #**414** 7th April 2016, 11:17

Mikey has managed to sort mine now, although he has said that if it plays up agin, it's scrap the BMW stuff and build a new locking mechanism.

I spent some time on the first door trim. It's not far off finished now.

smash · #**415** 7th April 2016, 17:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by hurnleft

Thanks Geoff,
ANDY--
Here's a couple of pictures of the bonnet mesh for you. Also one with the bonnet up to show that I'm not much into fancy paint and chrome under there as I tend to leave it closed at events.

Very impressed with that paint close up

hurnleft · #**416** 7th April 2016, 17:11

Thanks Smash, I'm very pleased.
Nothing will happen with the car now for a couple of weeks, then it's all go to be ready(ish) for Stoneleigh.

Cheers, Bob.

lancelot link · #**417** 7th April 2016, 19:06

Your paint looks pretty impressive too Smashy ...

smash · #**418** 8th April 2016, 04:37

It's certainly very shiny - wait til you see it with the mouth and bumpers

hurnleft · #**419** 25th April 2016, 21:38

Back from holiday yesterday evening so lots to do before Stoneleigh.

Discovered the door panel doesn't fit as I'd used too much padding at the top. Will dismantle and make the top section again.

Rear screen chrome trim fitted professionally today, still a sod to do and required some cutting at the bottom. Car looks better for it now.

Made the headlining today. Just the fluffy van lining material but still took a long while. Roll cage covered in it as well. Jet lag didn't help speed or accuracy, but it looks ok.

Stripped the drivers seat so put the spacers in the sliders. Found I'd lost them since I did the passengers side. A job for another day now.

Bob.

molleur · #**420** 25th April 2016, 21:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by hurnleft

Hi, I've been trying to get more details from the paint supplier about the colour mix. I took a while for them to say they would let us have the formula as it was going abroad, but when they found out you were in the USA they said there was no point as the type of paint they use is illegal where you are.

Oh well, we tried.

Hope you find something similar as I'm very pleased with it and all who've seen the car say it looks right on the period of car.

All the best, Bob.

Cheers, Bob.

Thank you Bob, I do appreciate the effort.
Jack