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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #1  
Old 26th May 2018, 15:11
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Default You know when you wish you hadn't started.....(brake woes)

The brake warning light flickered at first and then stayed on. Time for new pads. How hard can it be?

Rear pads looked okay so I started with the front passenger side. Done in about 30 minutes but the pads were only about half worn. Replaced then anyway and started on the drivers side.

The caliper was clamped to the disc with a seized piston. I managed to get it off be the piston was not going back in the caliper so decided it was easier to replace that risk a refurb.

Brake flexi would not come out of the caliper so decided to replace the flexi as well. That too was a challenge to remove but a blow torch and penetrating oil overcame the stuck fitting.

New pads fitted, brake bled and ready for the test run. Pressed the brake pedal one more time before heading out and suddenly it went to the floor.

Damn, I must have left something loose so I whip the wheel off to see brake fluid pissing out of the metal brake pipe where it is clipped to the inner wing.

I hadn't even touched that bit as it is part hidden by a plastic wheel arch liner but I guess it was rusty and the rest of the work I had done had disturbed the rust and the pipe had failed.

I am glad it happened on the drive and not when I was actually driving but now I need to replace the metal brake pipes and I don't have a pipe flaring tool.

I share spend the next hour or so gently swearing while I try and work out exactly what to do.

As always, advice and help welcome.

https://youtu.be/SfN0SfASwN4

Last edited by WorldClassAccident; 26th May 2018 at 15:37..
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Old 26th May 2018, 16:59
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IanA IanA is offline
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The pipe and flaring tool should be easy to get from your local car spares shop. I use Motorist Discount Centre a lot. Their branch at 3 Fairview Parade, Beaulieu Rd, Hythe, Southampton, SO45 5GT is open until 17:30 today- give them a call on 023 8084 1164.

Make sure you get some joining unions as well. Trace the pipe back from the break to where it seems sound and then cut and flare there. Alternatively, replace the whole length back to the ABS pump under the fuse box on the rear near side of the engine area.

Last edited by IanA; 26th May 2018 at 17:01.. Reason: rear near side of the engine area- that's where it is on mine.
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Old 26th May 2018, 17:47
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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...and I made the mistake of buying the flaring tool from Halfrauds.

I got the first one home only to find three bits missing from a supposedly seal packet so it was back to Halfrauds for a replacement.

Fortunately they had two others in stock.
Unfortunately one of them had the 3/8ths fitting nicked.
Fortunately the other was complete so I drove home.
Unfortunately the wing nut used to close the clamp snapped as I was hand tightening it
Fortunately I got back to Halfrauds in time for a refund.
Unfortunately it was then to late to go anywhere else.
Fortunately MrsWCA met me at the door with a cold Pimms and I am going to ignore the car and let the brake fluid drip into the pint glass underneath until tomorrow.
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Old 26th May 2018, 18:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident View Post
...and I made the mistake of buying the flaring tool from Halfrauds.

I got the first one home only to find three bits missing from a supposedly seal packet so it was back to Halfrauds for a replacement.

Fortunately they had two others in stock.
Unfortunately one of them had the 3/8ths fitting nicked.
Fortunately the other was complete so I drove home.
Unfortunately the wing nut used to close the clamp snapped as I was hand tightening it
Fortunately I got back to Halfrauds in time for a refund.
Unfortunately it was then to late to go anywhere else.
Fortunately MrsWCA met me at the door with a cold Pimms and I am going to ignore the car and let the brake fluid drip into the pint glass underneath until tomorrow.
Don't do anything rash.

I have avoided the car for a few days, painting the walls in the dining room, and today, after the final coat, also undercoated the skirting boards. Top coat tomorrow am, and weather permitting, have a bash at fixing the driver door lock. I seem to have knacked the manual lock function with my unsuccessful endeavours to replace the lock activator with one that works better. It should be a simple job. I probably didn't hook the wire hook thing back in properly. I just hope i can do it without taking the locking mechanism out.

It goes in to have the rear brakes checked and hopefully get rid of the two warning lights on Tuesday.
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Old 26th May 2018, 18:33
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IanA IanA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barber View Post
...It goes in to have the rear brakes checked and hopefully get rid of the two warning lights on Tuesday.
Good luck with that. "In theory" the handbrake shoes should never wear out because they are only used when the car is stationary. But I bet the adjusters are clagged up. I've got my eye on some on eBay at 6.49 each for when I do mine. Also the expanding handbrake cable locks for 32.99 the pair. I already have all the pads (F&R) and the shoes.
Just need a good supply of round tuits.
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Old 26th May 2018, 18:48
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Next question is what pipe material, copper or cupro-nickel?

What are the relative advantages and how easy are they to flare etc?
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