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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Dino 246 Builds and Discussion

Dino 246 Builds and Discussion Da da da da daaa daa da da, ohoho Dino

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  #41  
Old 5th November 2015, 06:42
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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thanks Ross

A bit more progress.
Tail end of the sheet work.

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  #42  
Old 5th November 2015, 06:46
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Made the pedal set up before attaching the top to the chassis.

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  #43  
Old 5th November 2015, 06:49
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Repainted to cover the rivets.

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  #44  
Old 5th November 2015, 06:53
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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attaching the top.

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  #45  
Old 5th November 2015, 06:58
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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I am currently dummying up the rear space frame out of condute and a hot glue gun to get things worked out.

Thats it for the moment.

Jim
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  #46  
Old 6th November 2015, 07:40
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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Engineering art.
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  #47  
Old 21st November 2015, 23:57
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Thanks Paul, a lot of my art has gone in the bin over the years, thats the learn.

Frame made to the weld up stage.
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Last edited by ozi jim; 22nd November 2015 at 00:04..
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  #48  
Old 22nd November 2015, 00:02
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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I will tig it next then make suspension brackets and engine mounts.

Jim
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  #49  
Old 23rd November 2015, 07:24
Axel Axel is offline
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Hi Jim, I am too impressed to say anything.....
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  #50  
Old 23rd November 2015, 20:16
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+1 Awesome work!!!
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  #51  
Old 1st December 2015, 09:06
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Stunning, one to follow...
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  #52  
Old 10th July 2016, 01:09
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Thought I would update the progress.

After making the rear frame I needed to finalize the engine location so I made the conversion plate.

I opted to use a Subaru 5 speed transaxle modified to drive out of the front diff only.

I measured the dowls on the Subaru box and Nissan engine.
Machining a 32mm hole in the centre allows me to put a spigot bearing in then after drilling the dowls I can drop the box on and check it fits.
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The rest of the plate holes are transfer punched, scribe and cut on the band saw, then linished.
The inner hole I used a pattern fixed to the plate then ran around the inside with a router.
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When The engine comes out the plate will be heavily drilled out to reduce the weight

Last edited by ozi jim; 10th July 2016 at 01:25..
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  #53  
Old 10th July 2016, 01:24
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Engine and suspension mounts.
I use a suspension bush for the mounts, I used them on my GT40 and they cost $24 and they last.

The bush presses into the cup that I machined out of a bar,it has a 2mm wall.
The brackets mounted on the block are sheet steel 3mm base plate and 2mm bracket.

The engine has 4 mounts in total, the gearbox mount is part of the rear crossmember.

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Last edited by ozi jim; 10th July 2016 at 01:27..
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  #54  
Old 10th July 2016, 01:38
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Suspension mounts.

The upper lateral link is made with adjustments for rear roll center.

This is the advantage of using a cad system when it comes to making one off brackets.
I print on a4 to scale then spray glue and attach to the sheet metal, all the cutting drilling is done then peel it off.

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  #55  
Old 10th July 2016, 01:45
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Gearbox
EBAY $250
Subaru 2.5 lt turbo liberty 5speed.

I removed the extension housing ,rear diff ,transfer gears and filed them in the bin .
The center housing I have left the shift casting and machined off that that is not required.
The bearing hole I will plug, I can buy a splined sleeve that go's onto the lower shaft and this will make it drive out of the front diff.

The rear I have made a sheet cover that will get 2 m6 bolts and some sealer adhesive.

The diff I will weld the center as it will be track only.

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  #56  
Old 10th July 2016, 01:59
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In an earlier post I made sheet metal uprights.
The rear I was happy with but the front I never was.
I could also see issues fitting the steering arm.

With the scrap from the center of the gearbox conversion plate I made 2 front uprights and I had to make caliper brackets as well.
The uprights are 5083 and the brackets are 6061 t6 .

The caliper has a S/Steel bracket to hold it to the upright,as per the sheet pattern in pic 4.

The steering arm will be sheet ,one in between the top ball joint mount and one on top.

All the radius on the edges of the uprights I did in the mill just using router bits (tungsten carbide).

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  #57  
Old 10th July 2016, 02:06
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I want center lock wheels because its period, I am happy to forgo spinners for nut just because its practical.

The flanges I machined out of 4140 chromemoly, the nuts a 6061 t6.

The pin drives will be the heads of m12 alan bolts.

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  #58  
Old 10th July 2016, 02:19
ozi jim ozi jim is offline
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Wheels

Pic 1 I punch a hole in the billet to center on the table, the 2 outer are just for mounting with bolts, I place these where 2 of the slots will be.

Pic 2 Mounting face for the wheel and also the arbor in the machining process.

Counter bore for the center lock.
Where the drive pins go I put 5 m10 threads in instead of the 10x drive pin holes.

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  #59  
Old 10th July 2016, 02:38
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I mount it to an arbor then do all the profiling on the front.
I then turn the arbor around and remount and do all the rear face.

Cutting the slots is about a 6 step process due to the shape.

The wheel and rim is 5kg.

All 4 uprights are assembled, the metal spinners will have the rim half's done next week, the Cr moly turns up Monday for all the suspension , the rack I have finalized and will order Monday.
With in a month I expect to have a rolling chassis.

Thats it for the moment.

Jim

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  #60  
Old 10th July 2016, 07:51
DaveP DaveP is offline
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Bl@@dy brilliant Jim. Engineering art indeed. I am in awe of people's skills.

Dave
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