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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #61  
Old 24th January 2017, 20:45
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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Thanks given what they looked like when I bought them, they've come out so much better than I expected. Just got to sort the fronts now but at least having the rears on will aid getting the back end lined up.
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  #62  
Old 24th January 2017, 20:50
molleur molleur is online now
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Keep the pics coming....
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  #63  
Old 25th January 2017, 15:13
wozzy wozzy is offline
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looking good
keep up the good work
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  #64  
Old 2nd February 2017, 06:39
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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Nice to get out to do something, Hammerite!



Fitted my Markiii pipe to the airbox (meant to increase torque) and also waiting for spacers for the front wheels to turn up. Oh and I've also built a stud wall and a cupboard in my house

Last edited by Nostromo; 1st September 2017 at 23:31..
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  #65  
Old 2nd February 2017, 09:57
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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Looks good and I'm sure the stud wall and cupboard look equally smart!

I used some smooth hammerite on my front and rear frames last week and thought I'd done it when it was too cold as it went a bit lumpy. All ok when it dried and looks better than I expected.
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  #66  
Old 2nd February 2017, 10:55
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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It does look pretty good doesn't it. I'm quite impressed that it all just smooths itself out. Annoyingly, I think I made a fair bit of dust while I was pratting about in the garage so i'll have to have a look this evening to see whether it still looks as nice. Can you put a piccy up of yours as mines not the smooth hammerite, its 'direct to rust' which still seems to give a smooth finish. Just be interested to see if theres a difference.
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  #67  
Old 2nd February 2017, 22:44
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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I was warned many years ago by a professional that Smoothrite wasn't a good paint (after I'd used it!) as it is so brittle it creates microscopic cracks which moisture gets behind, unseen until it all falls off in sheets. He was correct! - not something I'd even paint garage shelves with.
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  #68  
Old 3rd February 2017, 07:17
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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Aww really? It even advertises that its meant to repel moisture. Ok, well its on there now so if it starts to peel, i'll attack it with a jet wash... maybe not on the inside of the car though obvs. It looks pretty good at the minute

Last edited by Nostromo; 3rd February 2017 at 07:31..
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  #69  
Old 3rd February 2017, 07:23
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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I just posted an update with pics on my build thread so you can see the results I got
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  #70  
Old 25th May 2017, 16:45
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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I finally got outside and did something!!!



Cut the bottoms off the doors! All went quite well but then the cat turned up looking a bit rough so had to get him to the vets So, as you can see, theres now nothing for the door seal to attach to at the bottom and as much as this is to be a fair weather car, I'd still like something there just in case. Suppose i'll worry about that when the cars ready to go outside. A bit of additional bracing will be added and I need to remove some more door metal at the rear so that it clears the rs200 bodywork before they can go back on... maybe a bi of rust repellant too!

Last edited by Nostromo; 1st September 2017 at 23:32..
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  #71  
Old 26th May 2017, 08:15
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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Good to see your latest updates. I have to admit the doors were the hardest part of my build so far and I'm still not 100% happy with passenger side. I need to sort trailing edge out then I will post some pics.

I found the trailing edge/B pillar really hard to get slotted in the 'pocket' in the door skin which itself needed a lot of fiberglass/resin removing from. My drivers door looks good and just needs a little more supporting at the lower edge (and yes it seems there isn't a way to do the doors without loosing the bottom edge seal). Passenger side less good so need to work out if that's the skin or more needs removing from the door itself.
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  #72  
Old 28th May 2017, 18:27
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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It'd be good to see what you've done Swifty before I go attacking the doors again. I'm looking forward to getting some bits actually attached. I'm bursting to get the rear end fitted.
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  #73  
Old 28th May 2017, 19:28
retro200 retro200 is offline
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Default mrs200 doors

my mrs200 doors where the same i had to remove loads from the pockets on the door skins, just keep at it you will get them right in the end, i had my door skins on and off dozens of times till they where right, but they do fit. in the end like i said in an earlier post the doors and the roof around the screen are the hardest part of the mrs200 build ( apart from paying for it) but, worth the time and effort in the end ,the rest is pretty straight forward, any up to date pics ??
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  #74  
Old 29th May 2017, 04:24
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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It hasn't really changed to be honest. I did just get my front wheel spacers through so its got a good stance if nothing else. The house is just about there now so I can finally start to spend some time on the car.
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  #75  
Old 31st May 2017, 16:23
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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Nostromo - will post a quick update on my build thread later this week so you can see where I've got to with the doors. I've also made a bit more progress on the front and rear clam with holes and lights etc.
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  #76  
Old 25th August 2017, 23:00
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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Can't believe my last post was May! I've actually been quite busy since. Finally got round to fitting the door skins. They're not quite as straight forward as I'd hoped and although once they're attached to the doors, they look quite good, once they're on the car, it's very apparent they're going to need some serious work. Basically they're too far in at the bottom and too far out at the top nearest the b pillar. I'm hoping that spacing the bottom edge will bring the top edge in. We'll see.





Finally tech screwed the side skirts into place and made up some brackets to hold the edges where they're meant to be.

Made a big decision on the rear clam section. I was originally going to have it hinged with a fixed window but due to the shape of the bottom edge at the rear of the clam and the position of the bumper bar, the decision has been made that it will now be a fixed (but removeable) clam and easyish removable rear window come engine cover for getting to the engine. I would have had to remove a LOT of rear edge to clear the crash bar and that just wouldn't look right.



Have ordered some bits and pieces to build an induction kit and some more bits for an exhaust. My dad actually gave me an exhaust from his old TVR which has actually turned out to be a bike exhaust which at first seemed a good idea but unfortunately there's just not much room under the MR2.


Bit too bling


Cutting holes in the roof!

Also, have decided to use the MR2 bulb holders and attach them to the Sierra lights rather than use the Sierra bulb holders. I think unless I buy new ones, I'll struggle to get good contacts.


Bought some nice little wing mirrors

Think that's about it in a large nutshell. Will hopefully have the bonnet pins fitted on the roof and another set on order for the rear above the wheel arches to hold the clam in place by the end of the weekend and also hopefully have a fettle with the rear lights if my looms turn up tomorrow. Happy days

Last edited by Nostromo; 26th August 2017 at 20:39..
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  #77  
Old 29th August 2017, 11:02
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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Great to see you cracking on Nick. I've had nearly 2 months away from working on my MRS200 due to working on the garden, but now turning my attention back including what to do with my rear clam.

I know Retro200 redesigned the bumper bar and clam support to ensure the clam cleared it on lifting. I'm trying to work out the best option on mine - I have all the kit for hinging it as per original (from roof) but will face the same issue as yourself. I've started looking at whether a cantilever hinge would work allowing me to lift and pull the clam outwards before lifting fully but nothing obvious on the market I can see to use here.

Will keep you posted and let me know how you get on with the bonnet pins as I may end up going the same route route as you and not hinging the clam but making it easy to get the window out for engine acccess (as per Andy's original).
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  #78  
Old 29th August 2017, 11:05
SwiftyDS SwiftyDS is offline
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Forgot to add ... I've also remodelled the windscreen area on mine to take it further back up making the windscreen area larger (taller) then using a sun strip to fill the gap and an original Sierra screen rubber.

Has the same effect as the sun strip that's been added on top of the original moulding on Andy's original car and a number of the other kits that have been built but appears as though it's a taller windscreen.

Also means I can get at the original MR2 windscreen and rubbers if I need to for replacing the windscreen.

Will post some pics when I do the next update on my build thread.
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  #79  
Old 4th September 2017, 20:41
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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Induction kit fitted. Wanted it closer to the vent on the side but theres not enough room down the side.

And a very awesome cast iron 1912 ford sign that my wife found in a antiques shop.

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  #80  
Old 17th September 2017, 16:14
Nostromo Nostromo is offline
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I bought a window!!



It was expensive now I have to drill some holes in it. I've had plenty of tips on how to drill lexan but nothing decisive. One guy suggested using a soldering iron to melt a hole which actually sounds like quite a good idea but then what would I use to tidy it up?
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