Very close to IVA time!

[GreatOldOne]

But I need some advice on:

Steering rack stops - I understand it's just a case of some hose clamps on the rack - How many turns of the wheel each side should I allow for?

Toe in - How much?

Castor - I think this is OK as is, with 1 washer to the front and 3 to the back

Camber - Without a camber gauge, it'll be difficult to measure - but how much have you chaps dialled in? I suppose you could measure total length of the top wishbone from chassis mounting to strut mounting on each leg, and that'd give a decent stab...

Exhaust Bars - On or Off? I'm not putting the top plate on the bars yet.

Ta

Jason.

[GreatOldOne]

Oh - forgot about the steering wheel.

I have the original from the donor, but this will not have a collapsable boss. Did anyone get there car through the test with this, or do I have to go hunting on eBay for an elCheapo wheel for the test?

My column has a definite angle between it and the extension rod down to the rack.

[Patrick]

I passed SVA with that steering setup. I had a collapsible boss as part of the momo E30 wheel adapter. The chap did consult over lunch with the other testers but in the end the said OK.

The clamps on the steering rack are there to stop the brake cables binding anywhere on the wheels or suspension as that would be a fail.

Castor - as you said more on the back = works well.

Camber - I have 1.25 deg negative.

Toe in - I set to pretty much neutral, took it for a drive then adjusted in wards by a 1/4 till it was OK. I think for SVA I actually had a little toe out - whatever makes it self centre better for the test.

Bars over the exhaust? As long as they pass the radius tests the should be OK

[MartinClan]

I also used a collapsible boss. I also took a picture with me of the steering shaft from sideways on (courtesy of Peter) clearly showing the change in angle. It's not so obvious with the bonnet sides on.

I don't think that they checked either in the end.... But better to be safe than sorry.

Oh - and I also had a horrible Momo wheel with a padded centre (stil have it in fact).

Robin

[GreatOldOne]

So I really need to get a collapasable boss on it and an el cheapo wheel - looks like I'll be visiting eBay again....

[alackofspeed]

My tester liked to see a minimum of nyloc nuts on safety critical bolts - it might be worth fitting some to the black column extension?

[MartinClan]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

So I really need to get a collapasable boss on it and an el cheapo wheel - looks like I'll be visiting eBay again....

I could do you a deal on my Momo steering wheel (not the boss - I still need that). I need to replace it with a decent one anyway. PM me if you are interested....

Robin

[GreatOldOne]

Thanks - I'll double check.

Those pics are quite old, and the nuts where just on hand tight for fitting purposes. I'm sure after I fitted the exhaust and made up a new spacer I used Nylocks.

[GreatOldOne]

Robin - PM'd you.

[timbo]

I had an original BMW steering wheel that I took the airbag out of and replaced with foam and they seemed quite happy about that, probably still got it knocking around somewhere if its any use.
Good luck, got a date through yet?
Tim

[peterux]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

But I need some advice on:

Steering rack stops - I understand it's just a case of some hose clamps on the rack - How many turns of the wheel each side should I allow for?

Toe in - How much?

Castor - I think this is OK as is, with 1 washer to the front and 3 to the back

Camber - Without a camber gauge, it'll be difficult to measure - but how much have you chaps dialled in? I suppose you could measure total length of the top wishbone from chassis mounting to strut mounting on each leg, and that'd give a decent stab...

Exhaust Bars - On or Off? I'm not putting the top plate on the bars yet.

Ta

Jason.

In order of your questions:
1. Just put a hose clamp right on the ends of the rack (inside the boots). The width of the clamp is just the right amount and the clamps can't move.
2. Toe in or Toe out? I couldn't get enough self centering with 'Toe-in' but got loads with Toe out at Robins suggestion. The objective at this stage is to past the test!
3. Caster - sounds fine.
4. Camber. I bought a cheapish magnetic clamp on gauge but you can do just a well with a DIY spirit level held vertical against the outside of the wheel and some small spacers so that it rests on the wheel hub. I think mine are set at 1 degree neg.
5. Exhaust bar
6. Steering Boss - yes, I think you'll need a collapsable boss because the BMW column is not collapsable. As Robin said, I had a special picture which I was going to use to argue the steering angle stuff in the SVA manual but didn't need it nor Robin who might be able to pass it on. I also stuck lots of rubber and a foam pad on my wheel as it would have failed the radius tests. Be carefull of cheap steering bosses from Eastern Europe as they are poorly made and not all are designed to be collapsable.
My SVA tester grabbed the steering wheel with both hands and yanked it up and down with all his strength to see if he could break it or the column mounting! Luckily it survived OK.

PM me your email address and i'll send you my compilation of failure points from other builders that I used as my checklist of things before the test. Of course, its only SVA vintage.

...peter

[GreatOldOne]

I'm sat here filling in my IVA1(VOSA753) "Application for individual vehicle approval (IVA)" form.

Got everything I need so far, except max design speed. Was thinking of entering 115, to be on the safe side as my tyres are rated to ZR, which if I recall correctly is 240kph or approx. 150mph. Sound reasonable?

I've also declared that:

Axle 1 as 500Kg
Axle 2 as 600kg
Gross as 1100Kg
Max Power as 170bhp @ 5800rpm

Asked for a test at Leighton Buzzard, with Brum as my second choice.

Will be sending photos, copies of all Marlin invoices and a selection of my extensive collection of other receipts. And the amateur build declaration, of course.

Anything else I need to send them?

Also: MOT. I know some of you got one before going to SVA, issued on the chassis number. Is this a mandatory thing, or a belt and braces?

[peterux]

I think i used 120mph as max speed as that was what my speedo said.

I think you may fail with those axle weights. I used 550/700Kg.

The MOT is a subject of great debate, but...

a) It prevented me from failing the SVA (faulty ball joints) - so cheap insurance

b) it takes some stress out of the SVA as you know it has at least passed the MOT tests (lights, emmisions, brakes tested, etc)

c) the MOT tester is a good pair of second eyes who might spot something obvious you've missed

d) it's a great excuse to practise driving the car before you go for the IVA exam!

You do , of course, then have to have it MOT every year, but again, i think the £40 is a good investment for an annual check up.

...peter

[timbo]

My weights came out as 423 and 560kg so you should be ok.
Max speed must be less than tyre rating and max speedo reading.
I had an MOT which was very useful, picked up a couple of things and especially when it came to the emissions, as the IVA man found the MOT pass very persuasive...so I agree with Peter, well worth doing.
I sent off some build photos as well, just to be on the safe side. The DVLA had a look at them at any rate.
Tim

[Chris Cussen]

I had an MOT too. Gave me confidence that everything was safe. I also got them to do the tracking at the same time, and it was an excuse to go for a quick blast. Don't forget to pre-book the MOT to make the trip legal.

As you will need to get the car insured, which you can do through the specialist insurance companies. They will insured it against the chassis number.

Also it throws a wobbly at plod when they stop you for driving a car without numberplates or tax, but you have MOT and insurance certificate.

[MartinClan]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Asked for a test at Leighton Buzzard, with Brum as my second choice.

That's where I had mine done. The guys there were very helpful (they suggested the UJ boot over the spring plate that I previously mentioned), but a little picky about radius issues.

Are you planning on driving it there? I got the distinct impression that cars that are driven there (as opposed to trailered) have an advantage in that at least they can see that the builder is confident enough to drive it!

On my test I even went through a Police roadblock (looking for someone or something) They just waved me through and didn't even bat an eyelid at no number plates or tax!

Robin

PS - will post steering wheel today...

[GreatOldOne]

Yes, I'll be driving it there. I'm gagging to get behind the wheel and acctually go somewhere, rather than sitting in the garage making 'brummmmm!' noises!

Just spent the last half-hour tying up the photo-copier at work, and I'm off to PC-World for new ink cartridges as my printer ran out of yellow ink last night. All the pics look vaugly Daguerreotype-ish. Fitting for the car, but not very clear!

[MartinClan]

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Yes, I'll be driving it there. I'm gagging to get behind the wheel and acctually go somewhere, rather than sitting in the garage making 'brummmmm!' noises!

Make sure you get some motorcycle goggles or you won't have any eyeballs left by the time you get there! And - if you end up going in early April as I did - it can be verrrrrrry cold....

Robin

[GreatOldOne]

Yes - I was going to dig out my old paintballing mask (It's essentially a motorcross face mask / goggles with a camo pattern) and use them.

[GreatOldOne]

Well - application is now winging it's way to Swansea. Snow storms not withstanding...