Are you madabout kit cars      
 "We've Got Kit Cars Covered" Information about Madabout-Kitcars.com Contact Madabout-Kitcars.com         Home of UK kit cars - madabout-kitcars.com Various kit car write ups All the latest kit car news Kit car related and general discussion

Search
Manufacturers
Kit Cars
Kit Car Data sheets
Picture Gallery
SVA Knowledgebase
Clubs & Communities
Build cost estimator
Kit cars for sale
Knowledge Base 
KitcarUSA.com
Classic-Kitcars.com
 

Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #81  
Old 5th March 2012, 16:31
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremy View Post
That is a work of art!congrats.
Sue doesn't think so - at least not on the kitchen table! - whereas I just want to keep looking at it!
Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 5th March 2012, 16:49
GreatOldOne's Avatar
GreatOldOne GreatOldOne is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northampton, UK
Posts: 1,891
GreatOldOne is on a distinguished road
Default

Huh. Women, eh?

Nice job Mike.
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 5th March 2012, 18:41
Chris Cussen's Avatar
Chris Cussen Chris Cussen is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 518
Chris Cussen is on a distinguished road
Default

Gulp!
Wow! that looks superb. Makes mine look really crude. I went for functional!
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 5th March 2012, 18:51
Patrick's Avatar
Patrick Patrick is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2,495
Patrick is on a distinguished road
Default

Looks fantastic, incredibly detailed finish.
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 5th March 2012, 20:30
cabrioman's Avatar
cabrioman cabrioman is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 167
cabrioman is on a distinguished road
Default

Very impressive Mike, I think the effort to add the centre vents is really worth it.

John
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 5th March 2012, 21:11
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm a bit late in seeing this so......... ditto all the above comments
Very nice finish, well done
Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 18th March 2012, 18:31
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default Oh dear...............................

Bit of a mixed weekend....................

I have started to fit the electrics in to my car, which most of you will know, I am not looking forward to.Front light loom fitting and connection all went ok.

Next job was to wire in the electric fan. I had included a spare union/socket in my radiator to allow me to fit a standard Sierra radiator fan sensor switch. As a temporary measure I had fitted an old sensor just to bung the hole up. When I came to remove it , it would not budge -so a bit more brute force was applied.........and you've guessed it - the nut has split away from the thin walled tank, and I now have a puddle on my garage floor.

It has just taken me three hours to remove all the electrics to the light bar (thatI had spent all morning fitting), then the light bar itself, along with the nose cone, and finally extract the radiator. Plus another hour to clean the brass tank around the socket nut, ready for it to be re-solder tomorrow.

Harumph - not a happy bunny!!!

On the brighter side my friendly welder has welded together all my bits for the Berlinetta and Roadster light bars which I have made for some of the other MOC members.

If anyone needs any stainless parts - let me know, and I will see what I can arrange? - all at non commercial rates!
Mike
Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 18th March 2012, 22:27
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

I think we've all had moments like that during our builds, but you'll forget them once your finished!
I'm sure you'll have it all back together in no time at all......
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 31st March 2012, 10:11
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default Steaming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm not happy!


The Smiths Classic Water Temp gauge I chose is not compatible with the BMW VDO sender in the cylinder head. Caerbont (the manufacturer of Smiths gauges) advised I would have to use one of their senders for it to register correctly. I bought one, and after spending several hours adapting it to fit into my cylinder head, I decided to test its callibration.

According to Caerbont, water now boils at 135 degrees C!



............and it is consistently out across the scale.
True 90 reads 125deg C
true 80 reads 110
true 70 reads 85
true 60 reads 75

below that it is not worth using the gauge (......or at any temp based on above!!!)


Do any of you auto electrician bods have any suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 31st March 2012, 12:38
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
I'm not happy!


The Smiths Classic Water Temp gauge I chose is not compatible with the BMW VDO sender in the cylinder head. Caerbont (the manufacturer of Smiths gauges) advised I would have to use one of their senders for it to register correctly. I bought one, and after spending several hours adapting it to fit into my cylinder head, I decided to test its callibration.

According to Caerbont, water now boils at 135 degrees C!



............and it is consistently out across the scale.
True 90 reads 125deg C
true 80 reads 110
true 70 reads 85
true 60 reads 75

below that it is not worth using the gauge (......or at any temp based on above!!!)


Do any of you auto electrician bods have any suggestions?
Hi Mike,
I'm not very familiar with these gauges but a quick Google seems to suggest they need a voltage stabiliser to provide a 10 volt supply.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

Maybe your stabiliser is faulty?
Reply With Quote
  #91  
Old 31st March 2012, 14:00
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
Hi Mike,
I'm not very familiar with these gauges but a quick Google seems to suggest they need a voltage stabiliser to provide a 10 volt supply.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

Maybe your stabiliser is faulty?
Hi Peter

Thanks for that.

Although I was aware it needed a voltage stabiliser, I did not appreciate it needed to be 10 volts. That will explain the over reading when I tested it direct from the battery.
Trouble was, when tested through the stabiliser I could not get any reading.

I've now checked the stabiliser and it does not work, so I'll order a solid state one from RS instead of the mickey mouse one Smiths supply which even has to be physically mounted vertically otherwise it does not work in its normal state!

Would one of these from RS be a better voltage regulator?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-regulator/2393067/
Reply With Quote
  #92  
Old 31st March 2012, 16:47
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
Hi Peter

Thanks for that.

Although I was aware it needed a voltage stabiliser, I did not appreciate it needed to be 10 volts. That will explain the over reading when I tested it direct from the battery.
Trouble was, when tested through the stabiliser I could not get any reading.

I've now checked the stabiliser and it does not work, so I'll order a solid state one from RS instead of the mickey mouse one Smiths supply which even has to be physically mounted vertically otherwise it does not work in its normal state!

Would one of these from RS be a better voltage regulator?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-regulator/2393067/
Hi Mike,
it was just a hunch. I hope it works better with the 10 volt supply.
Certainly an interesting voltage stabiliser that relies on gravity.
I think a solid state one that can supply all your instruments that need 10 volts is a nice idea, but it might be cheaper and quicker to get a new Smith's one. If you buy that RS component you will need to solder it on a piece of 'vero' board and add two bypass capacitors. Then mount it in a small box with some connectors to make it robust for a car environment.
Not impossible but I would just order a Smith's one from Merlin Motor sport.
Reply With Quote
  #93  
Old 31st March 2012, 17:02
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
Hi Mike,
it was just a hunch. I hope it works better with the 10 volt supply.
Certainly an interesting voltage stabiliser that relies on gravity.
I think a solid state one that can supply all your instruments that need 10 volts is a nice idea, but it might be cheaper and quicker to get a new Smith's one. If you buy that RS component you will need to solder it on a piece of 'vero' board and add two bypass capacitors. Then mount it in a small box with some connectors to make it robust for a car environment.
Not impossible but I would just order a Smith's one from Merlin Motor sport.
I was planning to connect it direct - why does it need two bypass capacitors?

There is an interesting article from the MG forum:

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MG...Stabilizer.htm
Reply With Quote
  #94  
Old 31st March 2012, 17:04
Chris Cussen's Avatar
Chris Cussen Chris Cussen is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 518
Chris Cussen is on a distinguished road
Default

A quick look at your numbers shows an interesting ratio
Actual Reading ratio
90 125 1.39
80 110 1.38
70 85 1.21
60 75 1.25



Its not linear but up beyond 80+ it seems fairly consistent.

The temp gauge works onmeasuring the current flowing through the sensor, so to have it over-read there is too much current. You could reduce it by putting a resistor in-line with the wire to the sensor. What you will need to know is the resistance of the sensor at, say 90 to do the calculation.

If you use a multimeter to measure the resistance (R) then the in-line resistor would need to be 0.38*R
Reply With Quote
  #95  
Old 31st March 2012, 17:26
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
I was planning to connect it direct - why does it need two bypass capacitors?

There is an interesting article from the MG forum:

http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/MG...Stabilizer.htm
That's pretty neat solution!
My comment about bypass capacitors was based on the application note with the component you picked.
Note number 3 in the application notes.
Reply With Quote
  #96  
Old 31st March 2012, 17:52
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default

Does anyone know the current taken by a Water temp sender/gauge and a fuel sender/gauge?

Looking on RS Components site there are a number of 10v chips, with varying current capabilities.

Is the one I've identified below likely to be suitable?

Jeepers Peter - you read the detail! Given my application, will this chip work in the set up described in the British V8 forum without the capacitors ?

It seems such a simple fix it it will work reliably?
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 31st March 2012, 22:03
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,074
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
Does anyone know the current taken by a Water temp sender/gauge and a fuel sender/gauge?

Looking on RS Components site there are a number of 10v chips, with varying current capabilities.

Is the one I've identified below likely to be suitable?

Jeepers Peter - you read the detail! Given my application, will this chip work in the set up described in the British V8 forum without the capacitors ?

It seems such a simple fix it it will work reliably?
Without more knowledge of these gauges it's pretty much impossible to answer these questions although reliability will probably depend more on how well you build it!
Did the gauges come with any kind of datasheets?
Reply With Quote
  #98  
Old 1st April 2012, 21:27
MartinClan's Avatar
MartinClan MartinClan is online now
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,890
MartinClan is on a distinguished road
Default

Just my 5 penneth.....

You will certainly need a voltage stabiliser if the instrument is designed to work that way. The theoretical 12v that comes from your car's electrical system is not actually 12v anyway, and also not particularly stable.

Using an electronic regulator may or may not work well - although a linear one is better than something fancier (digital). Car electrical systems are full of noise which plays havoc with anything electronic.

Personally I would try to stick with stuff specifically designed for the job. I would use the smiths regulator - even if you have to fix it the right way up!

Robin
Reply With Quote
  #99  
Old 1st April 2012, 22:06
Mike Mike is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 932
Mike is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi Rob

I have wasted most of the wekend playing about with electrical things I do not understand! - although I have learned a great deal - "receivers - base - emitters"!
I bought a 10v LDO chip from maplins for 99p - well I bought three.
After messing around we got 9.88v out of it. Then I blew it up - quite literally the whole thing blew it self apart! We then got 10.4 vaults when aa 22k ohm resistor was included
At this point I decide to pull the Smiths regulator apart, and to my surprise it is solid state, with a chip, and its own non oscillating resistors.....................

................so, tomorrow, I shall do exactly as you suggest and buy another Smiths solid state regulator, which will cost £15 including p+p!

Out of interest, why would it need to be physically installed vertically - or is this just a sop to the old days when it would have been a bi-metallic strip?


Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinClan View Post
Just my 5 penneth.....

You will certainly need a voltage stabiliser if the instrument is designed to work that way. The theoretical 12v that comes from your car's electrical system is not actually 12v anyway, and also not particularly stable.

Using an electronic regulator may or may not work well - although a linear one is better than something fancier (digital). Car electrical systems are full of noise which plays havoc with anything electronic.

Personally I would try to stick with stuff specifically designed for the job. I would use the smiths regulator - even if you have to fix it the right way up!

Robin
Reply With Quote
  #100  
Old 2nd April 2012, 08:28
MartinClan's Avatar
MartinClan MartinClan is online now
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,890
MartinClan is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post
Out of interest, why would it need to be physically installed vertically - or is this just a sop to the old days when it would have been a bi-metallic strip?
I think you hit the nail on the head there. Just a hang over to when it was an electro-mechanical device. In general, anything electronic is not sensitive to orientation - unless it is designed to be so.

Cheers

Robin

PS - Even us electronic engineers blow stuff up occaisionally. You get used to the smell of burning chips...
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +0. The time now is 11:44.

copyright © madabout-kitcars.com 2000-2024
terms and conditions | privacy policy