Tips for new builders.

[limpabit]

Thought it might be handy to start a thread for new builders. All the little problems, quirks etc. The ones I can think of at the minute:

5EXI Rear front Rover hubs need altering to fit Rear rover Discs.

Dash board heater holes. On Marlin CD, the measurements are wrong. You end up drilling the hole not above the heater vent!

The Rover radiator. It's a funny size to fit lower lugs. 595mm.
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...light=radiator

Becareful of the bolt and other threads. There's a mix of metric and imperial! For example Track rod ends!
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=2439
Also, the suspension bolts are imperial. Don't drill out the mounting holes in metric if the suspension bolts are too tight!

Try and use a small heater like a mini or heard of a VW polo. Not sure how much work is involved for example control cables etc.

Rover PG1 gearboxes. Go hydraulic clutch. Also use the MGF gearlinkage.

Rover turbo owners. Use diesel 420 diesel driveshafts with the latest Marlin engine/gearbox mounts.

[nutter]

5EXi Rear hubs from a VAG system need modifying.

Rover Radiator is from a Rover 25 1600/1800 OE ref GRD1071

Suggest you buy an All in One electric heater, and remove the need to plump it in.

Pre drill but dont fit the floor pan, until all wiring and piping is fixed in place, you may need to work from the underside of the car.

Dont fit the front side panels (Optional Extra) until you have fitted the front lower wishbones, makes aligning the bushes much easier.

Consider the Pros and Cons of the extras, consdier two fuel pumps, one at the front, one at the rear and a swirl pot. Prevents starving of engine under tight turns. If you want to track day it or race, this could be the way to go.

Considering replacing consumables from your donor whilst the engine is out. Clutch? Water pump? Cam belt? Wheel bearings, oil filters etc. A cam belt (£20) can easily be done with the engine out. It costs you so much at the local garage as the labor for removing an engine is huge.
If you car has more than 60K miles on it, and you dont know if the cambelt has been done or not. Do it !!

[JG]

This thread was a good idea by Limpabit.

If enough content is created then I am quite happy to organise it and give it a section similar to how the SVA section looks (really should update that for IVA!!)

I'll do the same for the Sportster and Dino DGT if there is any interest.

Cheers, John

[peterux]

Originally Posted by JG

This thread was a good idea by Limpabit.

If enough content is created then I am quite happy to organise it and give it a section similar to how the SVA section looks (really should update that for IVA!!)

I'll do the same for the Sportster and Dino DGT if there is any interest.

Cheers, John

You'll have to upgrade your servers if we do one for the Sportster!

[alackofspeed]

- The seat belt mounts on the roll bar bend too easily, so reinforce them. (My tester said he'd have failed my car, had I not reinforced them).

- Don't bother with the Rover pedal box - the bias with a stock master cylinder and the Rover 200 calipers put far too much front bias on the car.

- Use 260mm vented discs and calipers (200 vi ) and zr160 rear discs and calipers (this applies to the early rear hubs - it might not work with the newer designs). This will help restore a more natural balance, if you're using a stock master and servo.

- Ditch the supplied throttle cable and buy a PTFE lined one - the difference is significant

- Install a hydraulic clutch

- A Mk2 Golf front wiper motor also fits directly

- Check the travel of the suspension isn't being limited by the ball joints necking.

- Brace the steering column supports.

- Don't use a u-bolt on the NS rack mount - to get it tight enough to properly hold the rack, will locally crush the rack casing.

- Check the supplied front tie rod ends are correct (should be a metro tie rod, with a metric thread).

- Be wary of the integrity of the chassis powder coat.

- The car's shape generates rear end lift at speed. Note Marlin fit a large rear wing to their race cars.

- 195/50/15 tyres are cheap! Don't go chasing large diameter wheels with rubber band tyres, unless your only concern is looks. The compliance of the 50% profile tyres assists general road driving greatly.

- Toyo 888s are BAD road tyres - tramline, noisy, little sidewall compliance.

- The Elise screen is available with integral elements.

- Fit the "touring" tank, unless you like filling up stupidly often.

- The rover heater box works really well in my experience, and can provide more than enough heat for even the worst weather. If using the donor heater matrix, be wary of the solder joint where the copper heater pipes attach to the matrix end caps. It's prudent to fit a new matrix when building.

- If fitting a K20A2 and going the hondata route, CPL appears to be the best agent.

- Custom axle-bars (honda/vw inner, to rover outer) can be acquired from Drivelink automotive.

- Don't bother with a radio - you won't be able to hear it!

- If you plan to use the car on track, make allowances for additional gauges during your build - oil pressure / temp.

- If you plan to use the car on track, consider an extra oil cooler, as the engine won't get a much airflow cooling as in the front engine installation.

- Fit a baffled sump if you plan to use sticky rubber.

- Keep a couple of coils spare if running a 1.8t with the push fit design. They aren't very robust.

- Another vote for the second pump and swirl pot.

[alackofspeed]

Having been buying the odd part of late to replace broken / worn out items, it occured to me that it might also be useful to add a directory of part suppliers to this thread too.

Things I've had to buy in the past year include:-

CV joints, axle bars, throttle cable, gear cables, heater matrix, brake pads (Mintex, EBC, Ferrodo), tyres (r888s), brake hoses, oil cooler (and associated parts), baffled sump, polyurethane mounts, polyurethane bumpstops, dampers.....

Each item required a bit of shopping around first, and if it saves other people legwork it seems worth sharing.

Is this in keeping with forum rules?

[chrislandy]

Originally Posted by nutter

Suggest you buy an All in One electric heater, and remove the need to plump it in.

I always fit a water type heater as it's an extra bit of cooling on those hot days (and being mid engined you neeeed the extra cooling on the hot days!) you'd be suprised how much additional cooling you can get.

[limpabit]

John,

I think a list of suppliers is a great idea to stop the run around.

Whether it would be neater to have as a separate sticky, I'm not sure. Or include within this post.

Not sure what would be better.

[alackofspeed]

Originally Posted by chrislandy

I always fit a water type heater as it's an extra bit of cooling on those hot days (and being mid engined you neeeed the extra cooling on the hot days!) you'd be suprised how much additional cooling you can get.

I agree - I found the extra cooling quite handy when my car's cooling proved marginal during a track day last summer.

There's also the issue of the output. I'd imagine a similar output from an electric heater would be quite a struggle, and with the open top / poor insulation of the roof, a high output heater is very welcome.

[limpabit]

Originally Posted by alackofspeed

I agree - I found the extra cooling quite handy when my car's cooling proved marginal during a track day last summer.

There's also the issue of the output. I'd imagine a similar output from an electric heater would be quite a struggle, and with the open top / poor insulation of the roof, a high output heater is very welcome.

Especially in this weather. I good heater is nice. I'm using the standard Rover one, which pushes out a nice bit of heat. Though the size makes it intrude into the passenger footwell a bit.