Jag's 250SWBc build - Page 18

Paul L · #**341** 9th September 2017, 13:55

Jag - Good luck sorting out the fog light.

I used reflectors with build in LEDs to pass the MOT rules on both reflectors and fog lights.

Cheers, Paul.

Jaguartvr · #**342** 9th September 2017, 13:59

My latest cock up is the front indicators. Being rather clever I fitted a set of chrome Harley indicator bulbs. That means that the yellow of the indicator bulb doesn't show through and give you the fried egg look.
Unfortunately, the chrome bulbs are a tiny bit bigger and when the MOT tester left the hazards on during the test, the lenses started melting!
I've ordered a pair of glass lenses, whats the betting they don't fit the plastic light version?

Lucky@LeMans · #**343** 9th September 2017, 15:52

I've painted normal clear glass bulbs when I couldn't find amber/ yellow ones in the size I wanted. That seemed to work ok. In hind sight it did have the fried egg look , but I didn't even think that at the time !

tonyt · #**344** 11th September 2017, 15:54

Hi when I took my kit for its first mot I tried winging it without side repeaters had to take it home and fit some chrome jag ones sourced from a scrap yard, car has been off the road for a while repeaters not working as bulbs rusted into holders drilled them out and got 2 white £4.99 led dash lights from Halfords soldered them onto wires re fitted lenses, job done. originally had led number plate lights but found them too white and modern.

Jaguartvr · #**345** 11th September 2017, 15:58

If I fit LED's in the front indicators the flash rate is too quick.
Don't want to have to fiddle about fitting resistors.

I have fitted LED's in the front parking lights but 2 sets have blown so I'm going to fit normal bulbs.

tonyt · #**346** 11th September 2017, 18:57

did not know there was a flash rate but we live and learn, have an idea to get led bulbs for number plates but coat them with wood dye to soften them.

Jaguartvr · #**347** 11th September 2017, 19:08

On my Cafe racer motorcycles, I run a mix of LED's and bulbs for the indicators along with a special flasher unit that automatically corrects the flash rate.
The Z3 doesn't have a flasher unit but a double realy, very complicated and not worth the trouble, stick with bulbs!

tonyt · #**348** 11th September 2017, 19:53

my base is mx 5 seems to work, love the cafe racer look though.

Barber · #**349** 20th November 2017, 13:00

Can you let me know where you got your stainless steel 90 degree bends from, and part numbers if you have them? Also, do you have more photos of how your anti glug breather is fitted? I am not sure how you dealt with the end not on the 90 degree pipe. Once I have got all the bits delivered, can I come up and you show me how it goes together?

Jaguartvr · #**350** 20th November 2017, 13:28

At the top silicone (fuel resistant)90 degree bend all are 51mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Silic...cAAOSwuAVWyZaN

90 degree tight stainless bend
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree.../263164672353?
epid=864132173&hash=item3d45d63961:g:ZA0AAOSwa39Uy hRF

Long 90 stainless than is pushed and glued into the existing filler pipe.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-51mm-90...MAAOSw~gRVywsv

If you hunt on my build thread you will see what adhesive I used. Make sure there is half a tank of petrol as you will need to leave it for a few days to go off.
Happy to help with the fitting.

My anti glug was just a piece of fuel line fitted to the existing with a bayonette conector (same as on the washer line and fitted to the new top elbow.

Barber · #**351** 20th November 2017, 13:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

At the top silicone (fuel resistant)90 degree bend

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Silic...cAAOSwuAVWyZaN

90 degree tight stainless bend
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree.../263164672353?
epid=864132173&hash=item3d45d63961:g:ZA0AAOSwa39Uy hRF

Long 90 stainless than is pushed and glued into the existing filler pipe.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-51mm-90...MAAOSw~gRVywsv

My anti glug was just a piece of fuel line fitted to the existing with a bayonette conector (same as on the washer line and fitted to the new top elbow.

Great, thanks. Where does the other end of the breather go? I didn't understand that bit.

Jaguartvr · #**352** 20th November 2017, 13:40

I drilled a hole in the top stainless bend and fitted a rivnut. The rivnut acts as a nipple to push the vent pipe onto. I can fit one for you. Other end is just a push fit joiner to the existing pipe.
Top Bodge even if I must say so myself!

I presume your fuel caps have a 51mm flange to accept the fuel pipe.

Barber · #**353** 21st November 2017, 09:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

I presume your fuel caps have a 51mm flange to accept the fuel pipe.

Yes

Jaguartvr · #**354** 2nd December 2017, 14:37

My first set of wires were from an XJS, bolt-on MWS wheels. The chrome wasn't very good so I had them chrome powder coated. They look very good but I have the MK2 Jag that has perfect chrome wires on and although they look good, they aren't chrome.
I then got lucky with a set o 5 chrome bolt-ons, brand new never been fitted. Again they were meant to be from a Jag but it turned out they were for a 90's BMW. Would have been perfect but they stuck out about an inch too far. If the car hadn't been painted I would have widened the arches slightly.
Now I have obtained a set of Dayton chrome bolt-ons that came from an XJS again so I knew these would fit.........would they bugger
They hit the front callipers, 3mm spacers on the front and a bit of adjustment to the front callipers with the trusty angle grinder and they fit. Again I have used spiggot rings and wobble bolts.
They now sit very nicely, just got to take them for a road test.
3 advantages of the Dayton wires over the MWS wheels. They weigh about half as much so much easier to take on and off, the wheel centre is smaller so it looks more like a proper wire wheel, more spoke showing and the calliper shows through and finally the centre cap is a much smaller diameter which again looks much better.
I will post a picture when (if) we get any sun.

ericholm · #**355** 3rd December 2017, 11:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

My first set of wires were from an XJS, bolt-on MWS wheels. The chrome wasn't very good so I had them chrome powder coated. They look very good but I have the MK2 Jag that has perfect chrome wires on and although they look good, they aren't chrome.
I then got lucky with a set o 5 chrome bolt-ons, brand new never been fitted. Again they were meant to be from a Jag but it turned out they were for a 90's BMW. Would have been perfect but they stuck out about an inch too far. If the car hadn't been painted I would have widened the arches slightly.
Now I have obtained a set of Dayton chrome bolt-ons that came from an XJS again so I knew these would fit.........would they bugger
They hit the front callipers, 3mm spacers on the front and a bit of adjustment to the front callipers with the trusty angle grinder and they fit. Again I have used spiggot rings and wobble bolts.
They now sit very nicely, just got to take them for a road test.
3 advantages of the Dayton wires over the MWS wheels. They weigh about half as much so much easier to take on and off, the wheel centre is smaller so it looks more like a proper wire wheel, more spoke showing and the calliper shows through and finally the centre cap is a much smaller diameter which again looks much better.
I will post a picture when (if) we get any sun.

Looking forward to seeing these Jag!

Jaguartvr · #**356** 4th December 2017, 10:41

New wheel, it doesn't look great here but I have covered it in WD40 to protect it, when washed off it really sparkles.

Pushed the boat out and fitted new tyres as well, old wheels going onto the new project.

molleur · #**357** 3rd January 2018, 17:36

Several sets of reasonable wires over here. Mostly for Camaro or Jag XJ. What sort of offset (ET) would be needed for a 250 SWB Tribute? They are all 5 on 4-3/4" PCD. Backspacing for these is unknown to me at the moment, but I think around 5 inches.

Jaguartvr · #**358** 3rd January 2018, 18:01

Sorry but I don't know the ET.
My first set were MWS off an XJS and the fit was perfect, just needed to fit spiggot rings and wobble bolts.

Second set was sold to me as Jaguar but turned out to be BMW fitment, didn't need spiggot rings and used standard bolts, however the ET must have been different as they were about an inch too wide, if the car hadn't just been painted I would have modified the arches.

My third set are Dayton, they came fitted on an XJS that had been imported from Florida. Presumed that as the previous MWS Jaguar whells fitted that these would too........wrong!
Rears fit fine but I had to use 3mm spacers on the front and grind the caliper body slightly.

So 3 sets and they all fit slightly differently.

If you were buying new I would suggest using proper knock offs with custom hubs. The hubs are expensive but the wheels are cheaper.

molleur · #**359** 3rd January 2018, 18:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

Sorry but I don't know the ET.
My first set were MWS off an XJS and the fit was perfect, just needed to fit spiggot rings and wobble bolts.

Second set was sold to me as Jaguar but turned out to be BMW fitment, didn't need spiggot rings and used standard bolts, however the ET must have been different as they were about an inch too wide, if the car hadn't just been painted I would have modified the arches.

My third set are Dayton, they came fitted on an XJS that had been imported from Florida. Presumed that as the previous MWS Jaguar whells fitted that these would too........wrong!
Rears fit fine but I had to use 3mm spacers on the front and grind the caliper body slightly.
o 3 sets and they all fit slightly differently.

If you were buying new I would suggest using proper knock offs with custom hubs. The hubs are expensive but the wheels are cheaper.

Thank you! Appreciate the quick answer. Just finished reading your old wheel thread too.

Nubodi Automotive · #**360** 4th January 2018, 10:58

Its probably the MAF. Dont bother with a cheap aftermarket one, they dont last very long.
If it was a wheel sensor it usually brings on the ABS and traction control lights
If it was a camshaft or crankshaft sensor it would run rough or not at all.

Never had a cat go on these so unlikely

Before trying a MAF, check the inlet rubbers, these are prone to splitting and will give the same symptoms as a MAF going down. Single vanos have one rubber, double vanos have two rubbers. We have known the throttle bodies to stick slightly open due to lack of use also which cause the same problem.
This is tricky to get at to clean and lubricate but the cheapest option

If it was my car I would clean throttle body then replace the rubbers anyway. Then replace the MAF if the above did not cure it.

Hope this helps