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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #161  
Old 13th May 2019, 06:28
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Just to echo Mr T

I tended to start my major repairs with fibreglass matting, before switching to fibreglass body filler and then finally finishing off with ‘normal’ lightweight body filler.

A top tip that Viatron/Mac gave me was to start the first round of rough sanding as soon as the filler was hard enough to take it, but before the filler had set completely rock solid.

Whilst this wasn’t always possible, it did reduce both the time and effort required for sanding.

Good luck, Paul.

PS
I know it isn’t 100% complete yet, but your bodyshell extension now looks like it has always been there.
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  #162  
Old 15th May 2019, 17:17
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
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Thanks for the replies.

I have (only) just realised that the bonnet is sitting on the air filetr!



The current filter assembly is 150mm and I need to loose about 10mm to clear the bonnet.

I have seen on another thread how somebody 'modified' the edge of the filter housing with a hammer. But wondering whether I can go for another filter shape (eg tapered) but dont know how to get it to fit snuggly to the face on my Stromberg. Maybe I will have to make something - could be fibreglass?

Anyone got any other ideas? I have spent many hours of google (stromberg remote air filter) but can's see that there is anything out there?
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  #163  
Old 15th May 2019, 17:22
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A "Z" shaped air inlet manifold?
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  #164  
Old 5th August 2019, 20:13
cbjroms cbjroms is offline
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Well, solved that problem by cutting another hole in the back of the filter plate so the whole unit sits (off centre) 25mm lower.

Another question, I need something to switch my colling fan on/off and am wondering whether anyone has used one of these - .

Thinking of glueing it to the front of the thermostat housing.

The only other option (cant find a T-piece to allow me to fit another sender into the single thermostat housing threaded hole anywhere) is to fit a hetal section with a threaded hole into the radiator top hose. But I haven't really got room!
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  #165  
Old 6th August 2019, 09:18
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Have you looked at one of these?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F151054632193
I've used one before and it worked very well.
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  #166  
Old 8th September 2019, 18:23
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Lots of progress over the past few months.

Wiring is just about complete and ready for final testing. I have used Superseal connectors for the front and rear lights with a fuse/relay panel under the dash which brings together all of the wiring. I decided to purchase an electronic fan controller for the the princely sum of £2.46 have seen very positive reviews on a triumph forum.

The cockpit is just about boxed-in now and the dash is looking how I want it to be. I have decided to stick with the 2 x Herald gauges as the cost of getting them reconditioned is about the same as a new set of after market ones.







My plan is to get all the mechanical and electrical elements 'set to work' over the next few weeks and then put the car through an MOT so that I can take it on the road in an unpainted condition. Found a local bodyshop guy who has offered to take the rough body, fair/finish and paint for £1000!!!! I know this guy has a number of part-time jobs but have first-hand experience of his work.

Thats all for now.

Chris
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  #167  
Old 11th September 2019, 14:41
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Chris - Lots of good progress there.

I think re-using the old Herald gauges will help the car look old.

Great to hear you are working your way towards the first MOT.

As you know, I am a firm believer in running the car without paint.

It certainly gives you a morale boost, which helps in the final prep for paint.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #168  
Old 7th November 2019, 15:19
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I have now reached the stage where it is all together and working.







Just got to:
a) Fix number plates
b) Sort out bonnet fit

As regards bonnet, the image below shows that the off-side of the bonnet sits a bit high. I gentle push gets it into place and I am thinking that bonnet straps will do the trick. Or should I do another cut down the middle of the bonner and see if I can stich it back into a better shape?



What would be your advice?
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  #169  
Old 7th November 2019, 19:48
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I used bonnet pins on top to pull the bonnet down and level it, worked a treat.

Good to see another spyder nearing completion, btw
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  #170  
Old 17th November 2019, 07:33
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Chris – You must be very happy to have reached this stage.

One thing to note about leather straps is that there will always be a bit of ‘give’.

This is because you need a bit of slack in order to actually do the buckle up.

In my case, this slack allowed the bonnet to bounce up and down while driving along.

Whilst this was only a few mm, I ended up putting in some extra bonnet locks for my own piece of mind.

Good luck, Paul.

PS
Obviously, I’m a fan of the twin hump style.
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