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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #441  
Old 19th May 2014, 18:23
Viatron Viatron is offline
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I have one of those, not a bad tool, struggles a bit to hold bigger stuff accurately and also ended up bolting it to the workbench the only time I used it in anger as in the vice it was vibrating too much. Make sure you use a good quality hole saw I only use Starrett now.
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  #442  
Old 19th May 2014, 21:46
garyh garyh is offline
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The yellow ones... are they 1/2"? I was going to bolt it to my pillar drill.
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  #443  
Old 20th May 2014, 08:06
Viatron Viatron is offline
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Yep the yellow ones, you get the arbours separately and they come in different sizes, unlike the cheapo ebay sets you can replace the central drill bit as well. Have a jar of engine oil handy for lube and don't go too fast or even the a Starrett will burn out. Have fun!
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  #444  
Old 20th May 2014, 08:27
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If you buy Starrett Cutters make sure you buy the correct sizes arbour.
  • A1 9mm (I think) Arbor hole saw sizes 14-30mm
  • A2 11mm Arbor hole saw sizes 32-to massive expensive ones.
Bought load of thses for work over the years, Starett are the best you can buy (or so I have found).

Bought cheap one from Screwfix for home use, but it was false economy.
5 Screwfix Destroyed = 1 Starrett (Still useable)

Plus cutting fluid/paste.

Last edited by mas123mas; 20th May 2014 at 08:30..
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  #445  
Old 25th May 2014, 16:05
garyh garyh is offline
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Just fitting rubber seals around pistons on front disc brakes.
Question,how do you hold the seal in place while trying to fit metal retaining ring?
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  #446  
Old 31st May 2014, 15:31
garyh garyh is offline
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No pics at the moment, I took roto flex hubs to garage to have the pressed together, while I'm up in the lke district. My daughter said she will take some parts for shot blasting and when I come back I can buy some sheet metal. Need to buy a bead roller to put strengthening ribs in floorpans.
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  #447  
Old 1st June 2014, 09:43
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Hmmmmmmmmmm bead roler
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  #448  
Old 13th June 2014, 12:49
garyh garyh is offline
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Urgent question.
Does mig wire (flux) have a shelf life? Or is that I need to get the POR 15
Off before I get good penetration.....
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  #449  
Old 13th June 2014, 12:53
oxford1360 oxford1360 is offline
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Get back to bare metal first, I think.
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  #450  
Old 13th June 2014, 18:11
garyh garyh is offline
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Thanks O, that was the problem. But i now have a rolling chassis...
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  #451  
Old 13th June 2014, 18:35
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Any pics Garyh?
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  #452  
Old 14th June 2014, 20:09
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Gary - I saw Oxford had quickly answered your question.

The only thing I would add it don't forget what is on the other side of your welding.

I've remembered to clean the metal I'm welding, but then set fire to the paint on the other side.

+1 for photos.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #453  
Old 16th June 2014, 22:02
garyh garyh is offline
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My nephew thinks it would be great just left like this... a Rat Rod.



i cut them off, looks much neater.



re-welded wishbone bracket, hope the otherside will be ok...



cut out floors and marked out where to cut. i need the gearbox back in to see where i can position bulkhed sides.
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  #454  
Old 17th June 2014, 10:35
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Gary - Your rolling chassis looks great and I love your wheels.

Good luck with the floors, Paul.
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  #455  
Old 17th June 2014, 14:10
garyh garyh is offline
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Thanks Paul, i will fit the trim rings and hub caps.

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  #456  
Old 19th June 2014, 08:59
garyh garyh is offline
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I want to start measuring for the internal frame but my wheels are tucked under, so doesn't show how it will sit in regards to arches... do i let it settle or do i weight it down? I have already fitted the wishbone brackets that allow you to lower car, any ideas...





or do i take some leafs out? Don't want it getting too soft.

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  #457  
Old 19th June 2014, 09:15
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
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Set the wheels where you want them to end up and fit the body around them. You can always readjust them later when the car gains weight.

From experience I'd recommend that the back wheels should be upright and effectively camber free with the vehicle unladen. Any lower and you start to get ground clearance and tyre to wheelarch fouling issues (dependent on wheel/tyre size fitted).

At the front I've ended up with the lower wishbones rising slightly towards the wheel by about an inch. With them parallel to the ground I suffered weaving at speed and with them lower I had serious ground clearance issues, which made it stressful to drive. As it is now I'm very happy with the looks, ride and handling -





Good luck, looking forward to seeing the results.
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  #458  
Old 19th June 2014, 09:24
garyh garyh is offline
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So T, shall i take a leaf or two out?
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  #459  
Old 19th June 2014, 09:39
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There are so many variables at play here: weight of the vehicle; weight of the occupants; condition of the spring after 40+ years; personal preference of the driver; road or track biased; etc, that there isn't really a one size fits all solution to that question.

Assuming you've already taken out the three loose leaves on top of the stack, I'd suggest you try it with all the remaining leaves in place first. If it's too firm then take one of the leaves out of the next stack down. I've taken out the one from under the leaf with the 'U' clamps that hold them all together attached. It now sits where I want it without any lowering block fitted and rides compliantly allowing higher speeds to be attained with confidence on our rough old roads.

A bit of trial and error will get you there Gary.
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  #460  
Old 3rd July 2014, 12:46
garyh garyh is offline
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I was looking on another forum and noticed a car with my seats, when i bought them iwas told they were early Triumph... but are in fact Ford Pop and the covers are available approx £268.



Must order beading tool to strengthen floors/bulkhead.
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