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Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials |

4th July 2014, 07:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyh
...Must order beading tool to strengthen floors/bulkhead...
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Gary - I don't suppose you know a good way to strengthen the floors without a beading tool?
Whilst reading "Rods 'n' Sods" I've seen a lot of beading put into floors to stop "tin lidding" as they call it.
Obviously, I only really noticed this after I had fitted my plain "factory" floors.
Good luck, Paul. 
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4th July 2014, 08:04
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i suppose you can add some metal plates where required? i had to get the beading now as the steel is flat, once i cut and bend flooring i won't be able to use the beader.
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4th July 2014, 10:49
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Your car is really starting to take shape now. Have you details of the beading you are going to use or a link as I am keen to see how effective they are.
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4th July 2014, 10:57
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Here you go, they are on ebay for £165 + 12.99 postage...
£150 all-in, worth a phonecall.
ROTARY METAL STEEL TOOL JENNY BEAD ROLLER
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4th July 2014, 11:20
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I THOUGHT THIS WAS GOOD VALUE.

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4th July 2014, 19:34
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Good value? I'd say! Just paid £3.99 and thought I had a bargain!
With reference to your rear wheels / camber etc. As far as I can remember, the car has to be sat on flat level ground, at it's kerb weight, and needs to be rolled back and forth several yards each way, until the rear wheels settle, and what you are left with then, is the rear wheels natural stance.
Hope this helps Gary.
One other small thing, your car will obviously be quite light, so would it not be a good idea to fit the later swing-spring, as fitted to the Spitfires?
By all accounts, this improves the handling no end.
I am lucky in this respect, as my 42 year old donar Spit came with one already fitted.
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4th July 2014, 21:43
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hi Scottie, i thought that the Rotoflex suspension was the final evolution which had sorted the tucking under problem?
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4th July 2014, 23:53
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Spitfires never ever had that Gary, it was the GT 6's and Vitess's as far as I know.
The Spitties had the swing spring which, is still recommended today
for better handling.
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5th July 2014, 07:05
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Gary - Good luck with the bead rolling, please post some photos of how it all works.
Cheers, Paul. 
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7th July 2014, 08:30
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Question about UJ's, if i can't get the circlip sitting properly because the cap won't go in any further, do i file down the end of the cap a fraction?
Ta.
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7th July 2014, 10:50
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Not really, they are made to a tolerance and should go together without that. The yolks should be cleaned up with emery tape to remove any rust, corrosion etc. prior to reassembly. Make sure there is no crap in the cap or that a roller has dislodged. You could try the circlip in the groove before assembly to make sure it fits properly into the groove. Gentle pressure in the vice and they should go together. No extreme force required. Hope this of some help.
Last edited by froggyman; 7th July 2014 at 10:51..
Reason: spellllllling
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13th July 2014, 21:14
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I was just thinking that if anybody was doing a more modern version of these cars, they could use Chrysler PT Cruiser lights judging by how the wing curves?
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14th July 2014, 08:48
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You might need to let it buffer first... maybe I need to keep vids to a minute.

Last edited by garyh; 14th July 2014 at 14:01..
Reason: didn't work
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14th July 2014, 10:29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyh
Here you go, they are on ebay for £165 + 12.99 postage...
£150 all-in, worth a phonecall.
ROTARY METAL STEEL TOOL JENNY BEAD ROLLER
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after my recent aluminium panel fest I've been looking at one of these, limited on length but looks like a handy tool, ok its just over double the money but it does do 3 jobs?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2214912460...84.m1436.l2649
Mac
Last edited by Viatron; 14th July 2014 at 10:39..
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14th July 2014, 11:37
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No beading tool, though... only 12" as well...
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15th July 2014, 14:49
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Does anybody have a 1" lowering block for sale?
Cheers.
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15th July 2014, 20:15
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Gary - I liked your video clip.
Although there seemed to be a slight problem with the sound...
As I thought I heard you complain about the size of your garage!
Good luck, Paul. 
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15th July 2014, 21:01
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Gary, try standing on the chassis as you tighten the nut, the pressure may be enough to hold it still whilst you get it started. No problems with buffering the video this end as I have just got home to find my shiny new Infinity2 broadband is up and running :-) May have to follow your leave and do a vid next.
Mac
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15th July 2014, 21:29
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Hi Gary
Like Viatron has suggested you need to load the chassis front with some weight. I had the same problem and after the engine was fitted the shock center stud was pushed higher up allowing the check nut to be fitted.
With regards to the 1 inch lowering block if you pm me a private email address i will pass it onto a mate who is s--- hot on the CNC and keen to earn a few quid but i will let you communicate direct with him if that helps.
Sorry i was unable to help you a week or so ago with CNC work but i have a large work load on at the minute.
Last edited by swifty; 15th July 2014 at 21:30..
Reason: typo
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15th July 2014, 21:41
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Paul, you're a brave manto take onthis job without a garage... could i get from Paddinton to you in my lunch hour?
Thanks V for suggestion, i found it easier explaining my problem...
Thanks Swifty, i will be in contact.
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