Swifty's Navigator

[swifty]

Finally placed an order for the body a week ago so not long now until i move on to the next stage.

So to fill the time in I've been busy making a few things on the to do list.


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Made a bracket for the fuel filter to sit in out of 2mm ally plate. On hindsight i think that the orientation of the filter may cause issues later on so maybe i will have a rethink on where to position the fuel filter.



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Made a new copper fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs used the original brass T piece just had to clean it up and re tin. Also made a small heat shield that will act as a point to fix the copper fuel line to, this will prevent the copper pipe from work hardening due to the engine vibration.

IMG_4532.jpg

Small heat shield made from 2mm ally plate

[swifty]

Another big hurdle passed at the weekend i had the engine running after the full strip and overhaul so i was very pleased that all is well.

Just ran for a few minutes as i don't have the radiator set up just yet.

Here's a couple of links on you tube.

http://youtu.be/80jyrgWmU_Q

The sound quality does not do the 2 inch stainless exhaust Justis, all i can say is i will be very popular with the neighbours .


http://youtu.be/jGsZgcwciqQ

[Paul L]

Swifty - Good news on the engine start.

I know I keep saying it, but your rolling chassis set up really does looks amazing.

I've got a pair of two inch stainless silencers, but a stock 1500 engine.

Good luck, Paul.

[swifty]

A note for anybody who has a GT6 engine is the clutch slave cylinder is the same as that fitted to a landy defender 2.5 but the landy cost's £7 and the replacement from a triumph dealer is £26.
The original cylinder bore was 1'' which is no longer available and has been replaced with a 7/8'' bore, just thought i would post this as its a saving and the triumph dealers are way over with their price.

The steel for the sub frame arrived yesterday so today i am going to fabricate the frame which should be fun, i have a rough sketch off Andy at Ribble HQ which i will use as a guide and adjust as i progress but if any body has any advice feel free to let me know.

A question for those guy's out there who have fiber glass experience - Is there a particular way that steel is bonded to the fiber glass so it becomes part of the fiber glass panel for example the bonnet area.

[Viatron]

What exactly are you looking do exactly Swifty?

[garyh]

i'd like to know also, do you glue brackets on first and then add a coulpe of layers of glass?

[swifty]

Possibly going to make a tubular frame for the bonnet to strengthen it and help in the hinge mechanism also maybe run a tubular ring around the cockpit edge.

[Viatron]

Lol great minds think alike (or is it fools never differ?). Check out my build update tonight! I'm doing exactly the same sort of thing. Basically making a tubular frame that bolts to the bumper and another one bonded into the bonnet, both frames will have 2 rod ends so that I can adjust the bonnet in pretty much 3 dimensions by screwing the rod ends in and out and adjusting the size of spacers between them.

BTW I have checked next door and there are 2 bonnets but no body tried to peak through the windows but got a crap angle so couldn't see if there was one being laid up. Not to say it hasn't already been done and despatched though

Mac

[swifty]

Started fabricating the sub frame before the arrival of the body.

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Welded up what will be the base for the sub frame to sit on, used 75mm x 25mm x 2mm rectangular box section, four lengths cut to 1320 mm. I decided to weld up as one to make it easier to work out where to cut and mount onto the chassis, next image shows this.

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This image shows the base clamped to the underside of the chassis. After taking various measurement to make sure the frame sat square and in the right position i then marked the four places the frame will be cut.

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After cutting the frame in two i placed them side by side to make sure they are identical so that the frame is as symmetrical as i can make it once fitted to the chassis. The passenger side frame has a notch cut out in each leg to allow the fuel and brake pipes to pass through.


Frame fitted in position ready for the next stage of the sub frame build which will be tomorrow.

So until then see you all soon.

[garyh]

So, is this mig or tig welding?

[swifty]

Its mig welding as i don't have a tig in the garage plus mig is fine for mild steel box section. I would only real use tig if the weld was on show with stainless or ally.

[Jerome]

Originally Posted by swifty

A note for anybody who has a GT6 engine is the clutch slave cylinder is the same as that fitted to a landy defender 2.5 but the landy cost's £7 and the replacement from a triumph dealer is £26.
The original cylinder bore was 1'' which is no longer available and has been replaced with a 7/8'' bore, just thought i would post this as its a saving and the triumph dealers are way over with their price.

The steel for the sub frame arrived yesterday so today i am going to fabricate the frame which should be fun, i have a rough sketch off Andy at Ribble HQ which i will use as a guide and adjust as i progress but if any body has any advice feel free to let me know.

A question for those guy's out there who have fiber glass experience - Is there a particular way that steel is bonded to the fiber glass so it becomes part of the fiber glass panel for example the bonnet area.

Thanks fot the tip concerning the slavecylinder.

I still have clutch problems:
-new clutch assembly
-overhauled slave-/mastercylinder
-changed pedal so there is no clearance problem between pedal and
mastercylinder.
-many bleeding sessions

....and still it works good when motor is cold(altough Ineed to push pedal
very deep!),but when its warm it barely disconnects!

Would there be any change fitting a Landrover slavecylinder(bigger bore)
changing anything?

Eager to hear,Rob

[swifty]

When you say it works when cold but not when hot suggest there is an expansion issue but first is the condition of the clevis pin on the master cylinder ok (no play on the clevis pin or push rod.

Did you fit a complete new slave cylinder or just new seals, they are pretty cheap to buy so i would replace rather than repair.

Was the clutch release bearing carrier ok, i.e. the two pivot pins on the lever arm not worn or the groove in the release bearing carrier where the two pins locate, i had to reposition the point the two pins located into the bearing carrier as both the pins (built up with weld and re-profiled) and ring were worn, this only applies to the GT6 clutch.

Just out of curiosity have you got access to the point in the bell housing were the clutch slave is so you can measure the pin movement when cold and then hot to see if you can pin point if the movement changes.

Not sure what you mean by changing to a bigger slave bore as the original GT6 was 1 inch and the replacement is 7/8 inch which is smaller, this will give a slightly heavier clutch pedal but greater slave cylinder movement due to the fluid ratio change, if that makes sense.

[swifty]

Today i just about finished the sub frame apart from running out of 20mm box section so will have to order more next week, moon buggy stage nearly there.

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I may alter the frame once the body has been test fitted, hopefully next weekend.

Until next time.

[Paul L]

Swifty - Your frame looks the part.

Where are you planning to run your exhaust, out the side like Mister Towed, or a "traditional" rear exit?

In other words, is the box section you are ordering for an extension at the rear of the frame to support the exhaust / tail pipe?

Good luck, Paul.

[swifty]

Paul L Not sure at the moment so i will be adding a frame to the rear just in case and also adding extra box section to strengthen the frame in certain areas plus i will need to work out what to do for the steering column.

Today i finished the prop shaft tunnel.

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I used a length of 5'' mild steel pipe, split it in two with a plasma cutter, cut the two sides from 1.5mm steel plate and welded into place. The top cut out profile was cut and a card board template used to transfer onto steel plate which was profiled out and welded into place, ground up and job done.

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Tunnel laid into place which will look good once coated in a finish. Just need to drill various holes and add the cable entry pipe which i will do once i have manufactured the hand brake handle mount from ally, hopefully have that finished this week provided machine is free.

Until next time take care.

[Jerome]

Thanks Swifty,

I will fit a new slave cylinder(more travel is good!),I,ve checked all the rest
and that looks all-right.

Your "metal-skills"are fabulous!

Grt.Rob

[swifty]

Jerome I hope the slave cylinder works and thanks for the comment.

Finally finished the new handbrake mount bracket which took a little longer than anticipated. I did a rough sketch then adjusted to suit to what i thought would be ok.

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I decided to machine it from a block of ally as fabricating it from separate parts would of made the job longer and its a lot easier to let a machine do the work.

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Bracket and handbrake positioned to see if all was ok, will be able to make a permanent fix once the seats are in place so i can gauge the final position.

Made a few other odds and ends while i wait for the tub to arrive.

Well that's it for now and see you all soon.

[Paul L]

Swifty - Your hand brake panel is yet another work of art.

Good luck, Paul.

[swifty]

Paul L Thanks.

Found a great video on the Millie Miglia, if you like old classic cars, beautiful scenery and the Italian language then you will enjoy this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0eIVfr5Dck

I did and the hour and a half it runs goes over quick.

Enjoy