Another Cordite Is Born ...

[CarNoob]

Great job Paul boot looks great

[Mister Towed]

You can lose the big washers if you want Paul. I used the same locks for my bonnet and modified some smaller washers to fit -



Fibreglass is very resilient, fifteen months on the road and no sign of any stress round the locks.

[Paul L]

Normal Cordite building posts will resume later today, but first this...

Remembrance Sunday:
We left our house at 6am this morning for a family drive into "town".

It was well worth the effort, as the poppy field at the Tower of London is an absolutely staggering tribute / work of art.

When you think what each poppy represents, the sheer scale of it all really blows your mind.

[Scottie22]

Fantastic pictures Paul, a fitting tribute, well done.

Scottie

[Paul L]

CarNoob - Why thank you Mr Bond.

Mr T - Thanks for yet another top tip.
I did wonder if the big washers were just a bit too big and going to be a distraction on the lid.
Although, as a distraction, they may draw your eye away from some of the car's other "quirks".
However, your washers do seem to follow the "Goldilocks" tradition of being just right.

Scottie - Cheers, the poppy display really was something to behold.

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Still Chipping Away...
It dawned on me that by using the key, I could rotate the locking pin from this position...



To this one, which puts it in line with the length of the lock.



I hoped this would allow me to push the lock through the hole with the backing washer bonded to the boot lid.

But even with the pin in a better position, the washer made the hole too deep for the lock to fit.

I certainly do not want to make the lid any thinner, so I will be keeping the washer as a separate item.

Next I marked up where the washers would sit along the top edge of the boot lid.



The inner line represents the washer and the outer line where I wanted to cut the fibreglass back to.

A quick session with my angle grinder and this is what I was left with.



While the grinder was out, I finished tidying up the two corners for the bottom locks.





I then spend a long time sanding the inside surface of the boot lid, a thankless task.

I got most of it pretty smooth, but left a few area a bit rough on purpose.

As I want to test out the "Dolphin Glaze" filler on these areas to see how it works and what a difference it makes.

In order to see where I'd got to with the sanding, I gave the lid a quick coat of etch primer.



Then I mixed up some fibreglass filler and sealed up the area I had cut away earlier.



When that had set, I sanded it down and gave it a coat of etch primer too.



I should point out that I am not trying to achieve a "flat" surface on the inside of the lid.

I am more than happy to have all the undulations that you can see here.



I just want to tidy up the surface a bit so I can practise my hand painting on it at some stage.

When that side had dried a bit, I turned the lid over & sprayed the sunny side while I was at it.



As always, things do look much better with a coat of paint on them and that will do for today.

The next steps will be to work out where I need to re-route the rain channel & position the bolts for the locking pins.

So until next time, take care, Paul.

[Paul L]

I can't play outside at the moment, as I just have too many other things to do.

However, I did move the project forward a little from the comfort of my home computer...

Shopping:
- I bought a couple of stainless bolts for the boot lid handle, as I keep forgetting it wasn't supplied with any.
- I also bought a significant component required to finish the car, when I placed an order with Jawel Paints.

Yes, I have made a final decision on colours and there is no turning back now...

Colour Scheme:
Paying extra for a light blue gel coat was completely pointless, given my wholesale butchery of the body shell.

Initially, I didn't want a "popular" Sammio colour, but the simple fact is that they are popular colours for a reason!

So as British Racing Green has always been a favourite of mine, I've bought some Deep Brunswick Green "Truck Coat" paint.

But in a slight twist to the traditional BRG Sammio look, I am going to steal some ideas from other old racing cars.

Therefore, I've also bought a small pot of Signal Yellow paint to provide a "band" around the nose and to completely cover the grill.

Hopefully this will give me a Frankenstein cross of the Le Mans Spitfire and the Aston Martin you can see below.





And for the Tribute builders "next door", I even found a 250 GTO with a similar paint scheme.



Finally, as I have the seventh Cordite package, I want to use this variation of Barry Sheene's #7 for my racing numbers.



The yellow racing roundels looked good on Michiel's Spyder #47 and they should hopefully compliment the nose colour.

I am certainly not aware of any other Sammios using this colour combination, so I hope I can make it work.

Until next time, take care, Paul.

PS
UFO17 - Sorry, I keep forgetting to answer your question on the Locost thread.
My friends actually live in Headington, very close to the hospital.

[Scottie22]

Mmmmmmmmm. For once Paul, I'm not so sure about the yellow!
But, its what you want that counts, I'm sure it will come out right and you will be happy

Rover did a similar thing with their limited edition Rover BRM's which only came in dark green, and gave them a huge orange snout, which most owners painted over in silver.

[IMG][/IMG]

[swifty]

Interesting choice of colour's Paul i look forward to seeing the result, BRG certainly does suit these cars well and if the yellow looks as good then you will have a unique car.

Now there's a blast from the past Barry Sheene No7, i had a AGV Sheene replica many moons ago.

[redratbike]

Originally Posted by Scottie22

Mmmmmmmmm. For once Paul, I'm not so sure about the yellow!
But, its what you want that counts, I'm sure it will come out right and you will be happy

Rover did a similar thing with their limited edition Rover BRM's which only came in dark green, and gave them a huge orange snout, which most owners painted over in silver.

[IMG][/IMG]

Think the dealers sprayed them just to sell them...they couldn't tone down the interior though...something for you in the background

[Mister Towed]

Porsche 904 GTS?

[micky1mo]

Originally Posted by Scottie22

Mmmmmmmmm. For once Paul, I'm not so sure about the yellow!
But, its what you want that counts, I'm sure it will come out right and you will be happy
]

Go for it Paul
I plan on doing my BMW Spyder in GULF RACING colours

[Paul L]

Scottie, Swifty & Micky1Mo - At this point, I'm still not 100% sure that the yellow nose will work.
So I will probably ask someone to mock it up in Photoshop before I actually start painting.
I've only ordered 250ml of yellow, so it is not a problem if I just stick to BRG all over.

Swifty - There is something about Sheene's #7 that takes me back to my early days on two wheels.

RedRatBike - Just to be clear, I will have a black, not a bright yellow, interior.

Mr T - I'm not sure that Porsche 904 GTS had the best examples of a nose painted a contrasting colour.





Oh, hang on a minute, you weren't actually making a comment on my BRG/Yellow colour scheme were you?



Micky1Mo - The Gulf Colours should look good.

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A Drop In The Ocean:
I desperately tried to fit in a bit of filler work around all my other chores today.

I used this stuff for the first time.



As I'd had some pin holes on the inside surface of the boot lid to practise on.



Although it would need to be a pretty big pin to leave these small craters.



Either way, despite mixing up small batches at a time, I made very hard work of a simple "skim".

In fact, it all looked a right mess when I had to stop play to do something else.



In my defence, the wind kept blowing "stuff" into the filler which would then get caught in the spreader.

The only good thing about working in the back garden is that I don't need to pack things away when I stop.

Unfortunately, by the time I got back to the lid, the filler had set rock hard.

So it did required some significant elbow grease to get to the "camouflage" stage.



Which looked a lot better when another coat of etch primer was applied.



Whilst this is now miles better than it was before, there are still a few spots I need to come back to.

But that will be another day, as I am really supposed to be doing something else right now.

Cheers, Paul.

[Alpha]

The car in the background is the Rover-BRM, the turbine powered car they raced in Le Mans in '63 - '65

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover-BRM

[davecymru]

Looking good matey!
I tried all manner of "specialist products" during my attack on the Sammio pin-holes and TBH all of them still required a significant amount of filling/sanding/filling/sanding.... and none were the magic-fix that they claimed to be on the labels!
In the end i just went back to filler as it was considerably cheaper

[Scottie22]

Looking good Paul!

Have to agree with Dave, not many products do what it says on the tin...........

[Mister Towed]

Originally Posted by Alpha

The car in the background is the Rover-BRM, the turbine powered car they raced in Le Mans in '63 - '65

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover-BRM

Ooh, never seen one of those before, does look like the 904 GTS though.

[swifty]

The boot lids looking good Paul, i think its all about trial and error with these things and finding what's best for you.

I will have to sooner or later start to prep my body so the more i see what others are up to the easier i hope it will be for me as this is totally new for me but exciting all the same.

Keep up the great post Paul and i look forward to your next installment.

[Paul L]

Alpha & Mr T - I am always impressed by range of car knowledge on here.

Dave & Scottie - Thanks for the feedback, I'll experiment using normal filler as well.
In your experience, does the high build primer/undercoat paint cover any pin holes?
Or does the surface have to be super smooth, with no imperfections, before "real" paint?

Swifty - Properly prepping for paint is all new to me too, so I certainly need the practise.
As I never really worried about dents and scratches when painting my MZ racers.

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It is all relative...
With the rain chucking it down as I type, I'm not sure today will be very productive.

So I thought I'd add a quick "Before" & "After" comparison to cheer myself up.





As it is easy to get sucked into thinking about all the work that remains, without remembering the work that has been done.

This boot lid is turning into a very distinctive feature of my build, so it is well worth the time and effort involved.

Cheers, Paul.

[Scottie22]

Hi Paul, I'm no paint expert,but seeing as you asked, I believe the general idea is to get the surface as super smooth as you think you can for the final coat, then the high build primer is supposed to cover any tiny imperfections you've missed.

I don't think the answer is to smother the primer on first, hoping it will cover all the mess!

Hope this helps as we always say!

[davecymru]

High Build primer is great stuff as it sinks into small scratches and holes, and i found it easier to apply a few coats / sand / apply a few coats / sand, to get as near as damn it to the final flatness.