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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Miglia Builds and discussion

Miglia Builds and discussion Miglia bodied builds

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  #101  
Old 30th January 2018, 09:48
Marc F Marc F is offline
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Thanks for that Jag - I had never heard of the quick release clamp, so have bought one just now. I will look for a small chop saw - I have a wood saw version but that will too fast for metal cutting I imagine, but they are great tools. I won't waste my money on the angle grinder attachment, so that is some pounds saved. Thanks again.

And ARB - yes, a thicker bar will lead to understeer, but is often required if fitting the swing spring from the Mk4/1500.

Marc
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  #102  
Old 30th January 2018, 11:59
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froggyman froggyman is offline
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The evolution sliding mitre saw at screwfix is advertised as for wood or metal.
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  #103  
Old 30th January 2018, 16:04
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Jaguartvr Jaguartvr is offline
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This is similar to mine
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-150...oAAOxy4dNSy-wB
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  #104  
Old 2nd February 2018, 12:30
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lancelot link View Post
The roll of a stock Miglia bonnet can fight against you a bit when you are trying to hinge it ...If you look at the picture a piece of wood has been bonded on the bonnet and under the body to enable the hinges to be mounted parallel to each other and operate in the same plane , rather than against each other ...

You can make this a bit easier by joining the two hinges together , like this but obviously wider apart ...




note also , that the hinge pivot point is back about 50mm from the opening ...this will need a bit of trial and error working out ... but it gives you a starting point ...

Hinges are a right pain to sort out sometimes but look effortless once done ...
Gary - thanks for the advice. I saw that piece of wood you have mentioned and it make sense to lift the hinges to make a clearance. I will experiment with this when the time comes.
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  #105  
Old 2nd February 2018, 12:35
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Deni - I also started learning to weld by practicing some box section.



I found it much easier to weld thicker box section metal compared to the thin metal in the old Spitfire bulkhead I repaired.

Good luck, Paul.
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the advice mate. Yes, I guess I will have to practice on some off-cuts first. It should be ok, I have bought 3mm thick square tubing to make the welding easier and not to burn through the metal, as I am going to use an arc welder.
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  #106  
Old 2nd February 2018, 12:41
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc F View Post
I like the angle grinder cut-off attachment - couldn't quite see the make - where did you get it from - it looks just the thing I need.

And good to see progress on your build . Keep it up

Marc
Hi Marc - yes, the adapter is a cheap thing Aldi was selling when I bought the grinder. I only need to make a few cuts, so I thought this will do for now. If I intend to do more work in the future I will buy something better or a dedicated cutting tool. This does the job just fine for now ( I am just cutting a few extra pieces of steel tubing to reinforce my frame here and there).
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  #107  
Old 2nd February 2018, 12:48
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchelkitman View Post
Is a thicker anti-roll bar the correct move? if the front of the car is lighter than the herald the thicker one could make the handling different ie understeer more
Hi Mitchelkitman - thank you for the comment and that is a good point. However, I was under impression that I need to install a thicker ARB because I replaced original Herald spring with Spitfire 1500 swing spring and I have installed 1" lowering block too?
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  #108  
Old 2nd February 2018, 12:52
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc F View Post

And ARB - yes, a thicker bar will lead to understeer, but is often required if fitting the swing spring from the Mk4/1500.

Marc
Marc F - thanks for the confirmation. Maybe Mitchelkitman did not know I have changed Herald spring and added lowering block earlier in the build.

Last edited by deni; 2nd February 2018 at 12:52.. Reason: wrong name spelling
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  #109  
Old 2nd February 2018, 13:01
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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You are correct!
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  #110  
Old 2nd February 2018, 18:05
deni deni is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchelkitman View Post
You are correct!
Mitchelkitman - thank you for confirming this.

Cheers,D
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  #111  
Old 2nd February 2018, 18:10
deni deni is offline
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Hi all,

Can anyone comment on the drop link adjustment in the pictures above please?

Cheers,D
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  #112  
Old 3rd February 2018, 06:45
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deni View Post
Hi all,

Can anyone comment on the drop link adjustment in the pictures above please?

Cheers,D
Hi Deni, sorry, meant to reply to this a while back. I used standard links on my Spyder so I haven't actually tried the Wolfitt adjustable ones. The Wolfitt items do look very well engineered, but having been perfectly happy with the Triumph originals I'd guess that they'll only make a noticeable difference on an extreme, track focused car rather than a fun, road car.

If they're something you're keen to try I'd suggest you run your car on (new) standard drop links for a while, then change to the adjustable ones to see if there's any real difference - it's an easy job changing them after all (if there is such a thing as an easy job on an old Triumph...)

Some of Wolfitt's other products are well worth a look though.
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  #113  
Old 3rd February 2018, 10:01
deni deni is offline
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Mr Towed - Thank you for your advice, much appreciated. I came to the same conclusion. It is a great product but, I'm not going to use my car on a racing track, so I'll use stock drop links.
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