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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #1  
Old 19th July 2011, 10:25
NigelB NigelB is offline
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Default Marlin Swirl Pot

What is the suggested order of the 4 fuel pipe connections to the swirl pot. Is the swirl pot just a single volume tin can or is it cleverer than that and subdivided. If it's the former I guess the order doesnt matter too much so if the connectors are numbered 1 to 4, bottom to top then prehaps I could connect up as follows:-
1 - feed from the tank via the low pressure pump
2 - feed out to high pressure pump and fuel rail
3 - return to the tank
4 - return of unused fuel from the fuel rail

Would that work or am I over simpifying it.??

Thanks for your thoughts

Nigel
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  #2  
Old 19th July 2011, 11:27
Mike Mike is offline
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If you add a sump to your fuel tank you can do away with a swirl pot............
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  #3  
Old 19th July 2011, 13:16
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As far as I know, it's a single volume.

Due to this, I have the low pressure feed and return to the top two outlets, the top most being the return to the main tank, and the one below it being the feed. The lowest outlet feeds the fuel filter and the high pressure pump, the next one up is the return from the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the fuel rail.



As you can see, I cut the mounting tabs off the pot and fitted it on the 'cool' side of the engine bay, to avoid running fuel lines near the exhaust manifold.

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Gooster...d_Again_2.html
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  #4  
Old 19th July 2011, 21:55
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I did something very similar to the GOO.
I think my output to the high pressure pump was the lowest outlet so it always has fuel.

I mounted it on the same side as Jason but upside down to avoid cutting off the mounting tab.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-...57594447011861

I mentioned to Mark that I had done this and he didn't seem to think this would work. Apparently, at one time the tanks had some baffles but mine didn't and works fine this way up. It makes more sense to me to mount it the 'inlet side' of the engine.
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Old 20th July 2011, 10:38
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I did the same as peterux for a 5EXi swirl pot.

I dont want to hijack this thread my question is relevant ...... The high pressure fuel pump looks to be the same as I have on the 5EXi, what current rating and fuse do you have fitted for the HP fuel pump??

Cheers
Steve
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  #6  
Old 20th July 2011, 10:51
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I've got both fuel pumps running off a 15 amp fuse.
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  #7  
Old 20th July 2011, 10:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
I've got both fuel pumps running off a 15 amp fuse.
You mean one single fuse?

I had both pumps on a 15A fuse but it kept blowing,
so now I have the front on a 15A, and the old feed for the HP activating a relay,
the HP will pop a 20A fuse by itself, but not a 25A. It seems a little high to me. so I might have a faulty HP pump.

Thanks for the info
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  #8  
Old 20th July 2011, 11:28
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Yep - both of a single fuse. No problems so far.
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  #9  
Old 20th July 2011, 20:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutter View Post
You mean one single fuse?

I had both pumps on a 15A fuse but it kept blowing,
so now I have the front on a 15A, and the old feed for the HP activating a relay,
the HP will pop a 20A fuse by itself, but not a 25A. It seems a little high to me. so I might have a faulty HP pump.

Thanks for the info
Electric motors (in general) take much more current when they are heavily loaded culminating in a HUGE amount when they are stalled. Is your HP pump pumping into a very restrictive fuel system? (Small return for example) It's either that or the mechanical side of the pump side is b*ggered - but then I would expect problems from the engine itself (fuel starvation for example).

Robin

PS - I run both pumps from whatever the standard BMW fuse was - as I remember 15A.
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Old 22nd July 2011, 08:14
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I wouldnt say it was restrictive, but it does have a pressure regulator, this may be faulty I dont know. The return pipes are 8mm ID.
Its from a seat leon 1.8T 20v cupra.

I started with a 15A and that was fine, then it popped, and over time its is requireing a higher fuse to stop it popping.
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  #11  
Old 22nd July 2011, 08:46
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If it's getting worse over time, I'd say there's some sort of build up of resistance in the lines somewhere.

Have you tried changing the filter? Maybe it's clogged up and causing the pump to draw more power to overcome the decreased flow...
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Old 22nd July 2011, 09:14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
If it's getting worse over time, I'd say there's some sort of build up of resistance in the lines somewhere.

Have you tried changing the filter? Maybe it's clogged up and causing the pump to draw more power to overcome the decreased flow...
Not change the filter will have a look. The egine has only run about 2 tanks of fuel max, didnt expect the filter to get clogged that quickly.
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  #13  
Old 22nd July 2011, 11:55
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Just a thought. Have you by any chance used silicone anywhere at all in the fuel system or tank. Petrol and silicone do not mix and the result is gunge which blocks the system.
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Old 22nd July 2011, 13:39
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No silcon, just aluminium, copper and rubber
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  #15  
Old 22nd July 2011, 19:34
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For further reference I'm running a Walbro 255 and stock Rover pump (in parallel)through a 20amp fuse, and have never had any bother.
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  #16  
Old 11th August 2011, 15:10
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Just to update everyone,
I found the problem with my high current draw.
A dead FPR, a new VW was in about 50 mark so I got an aftermarket, adjustable with fluid gauge, for 32 from ebay.

Seems to work ok, its also fixed a few other problems I had repoerted like running rich, black smoke, so this coudl been the cause for a lot of my issues during building.

I think it all works now, but havnt run it up to much as my engine is caked in fiberglass dust, which I dont want to bake on.
I now back down to a 10A fuse dedicated for the fuel pump.

Think I need to take the time and give my engine a vacuum
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