Are you madabout kit cars      
 "We've Got Kit Cars Covered" Information about Madabout-Kitcars.com Contact Madabout-Kitcars.com         Home of UK kit cars - madabout-kitcars.com Various kit car write ups All the latest kit car news Kit car related and general discussion

Search
Manufacturers
Kit Cars
Kit Car Data sheets
Picture Gallery
SVA Knowledgebase
Clubs & Communities
Build cost estimator
Kit cars for sale
Knowledge Base 
KitcarUSA.com
Classic-Kitcars.com
 

Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Italian Replica builds and chat

Italian Replica builds and chat Lamborghini, Ferrari, Lancia, any Italian replica car build and chat

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #421  
Old 10th January 2021, 13:13
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,142
Lucky@LeMans is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm thinking of finishing my Formosa in the same way. Whilst much of the TR was bare aluminium a fair bit was painted but you wouldn't know. I found some paint that was an exact match looking like rough ali !
Reply With Quote
  #422  
Old 10th January 2021, 13:34
kevemm kevemm is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 111
kevemm is on a distinguished road
Default 250tr

Excellent will be interesting to see
Reply With Quote
  #423  
Old 11th January 2021, 08:19
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 845
Mick O'Malley is on a distinguished road
Default

4 Bis Rue de Ripoff, more like. First reg '57? They're having a laugh!

Regards, Mick
Reply With Quote
  #424  
Old 11th January 2021, 17:55
peterux's Avatar
peterux peterux is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,073
peterux is on a distinguished road
Default

No disrespect to the builder but the lies in this advert are unbelivable and clearly in breach of the website.

Example text from the advert......

Description and History

The Ferrari offered here is an exact reproduction of a 250 TR with Scaglietti body. The Italian firm Giordanengo; with nearly 30 years of experience, has a reputation of being one of the best in the world in building Ferrari recreations. To build this car, the brilliant craftsmen of Giordanengo handcrafted an alloy body around a tubular steel chassis. Every effort was made to meet the proper specifications, so that the rebuild was virtually indistinguishable. of the authentic. This replica, owned by an English industrialist, is not finished. Indeed, the latter had done step by step the reconstruction of this replica but could not carry out his project following a fatal illness.
Reply With Quote
  #425  
Old 11th January 2021, 18:14
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,142
Lucky@LeMans is on a distinguished road
Default

I think the dealer is the third owner since I sold it. The story has changed or been embellished and some of the facts have changed along the way. Apparently I am writing this from the grave !
Reply With Quote
  #426  
Old 11th January 2021, 18:40
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
kjn47 is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍
Reply With Quote
  #427  
Old 11th January 2021, 19:37
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,142
Lucky@LeMans is on a distinguished road
Default

Anyone who wants to know more about what happened to the original Ferrari chassis that was under the 250 TR before the body was cut up and removed needs to watch this video. From about 12.30 in, all is explained !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aouiOxqcdA

Also the story of chassis 0611GT with before and after details

https://www.forza-mag.com/issues/179...a-with-a-twist

Last edited by Lucky@LeMans; 13th January 2021 at 09:59..
Reply With Quote
  #428  
Old 11th January 2021, 22:03
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,142
Lucky@LeMans is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjn47 View Post
Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍
It is quite a simple process. You need to make a male mould of the shape you want to make, I made mine from wood with a skim of body filler over the top. The surface finish needs to be smooth and blemish free.
Make a wooden frame a couple of inches bigger than the mould to hold the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet can be screwed to the frame with self tappers every couple of inches.
Heat in your oven at around 160c until you can see the plastic start to sag then quickly take it out and press it firmly over your mould.
Hold it down long enough until it begins to cool and it will hold the shape.
I used 3mm perspex but you also use polycarbonate.
There is an element of trial and error but its quite easy to do.
Reply With Quote
  #429  
Old 11th January 2021, 23:54
molleur molleur is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
molleur is on a distinguished road
Default

I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.
Reply With Quote
  #430  
Old 12th January 2021, 07:15
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

I heard that Donald Trump owned it but the Democrats stole it from him. Like seriously, Dude, it's true and sh*t. I read it on Twitter. Rise up! RISE UP!
Reply With Quote
  #431  
Old 12th January 2021, 13:33
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
kjn47 is on a distinguished road
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.
Thank you for this. It’s really very helpful. Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #432  
Old 20th January 2021, 13:59
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,142
Lucky@LeMans is on a distinguished road
Default

Looks like a great project. The Locost chassis wasn't modified, the track and wheel base were correct. The driving position was very short but that was due to tiny cockpit area governed by the body shape. If designing from scratch you might want to increase the space inside a little. No wheel spacers fitted but the hub adaptors do increase the track a little. Luckily on my car it all fell into position.
Reply With Quote
  #433  
Old 20th January 2021, 16:03
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
kjn47 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated.👍
Reply With Quote
  #434  
Old 20th January 2021, 16:11
molleur molleur is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
molleur is on a distinguished road
Default

Kevin, why Styrofoam?
Urethane foam is much easier to work and compatible with polyester resins.
Reply With Quote
  #435  
Old 20th January 2021, 16:30
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
kjn47 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you for this suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resins?
Reply With Quote
  #436  
Old 20th January 2021, 16:31
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
kjn47 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thank you for the suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resin and matting etc?
Reply With Quote
  #437  
Old 20th January 2021, 16:46
molleur molleur is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
molleur is on a distinguished road
Default

that would depend upon if you intend to make a mould or simply a male one-off body which will require a lot of post-finishing.
If making a mould, a very fine finish is needed. Should you make your body buck and use it as a final product, it will be much more labor intensive to finish. Send me a PM for a more detailed and lengthy explanation.
Reply With Quote
  #438  
Old 8th February 2021, 17:52
rossnzwpi rossnzwpi is offline
Senior Member
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 225
rossnzwpi is on a distinguished road
Default

https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is.
Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene.
Reply With Quote
  #439  
Old 8th February 2021, 18:17
molleur molleur is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
molleur is on a distinguished road
Default

Should you choose to use polystyrene foam, the extra expense of epoxy resins may be avoided by (after shaping) coating the plug with latex house paint, several coats. Them applying mould release wax and PVA
to the surface. This prevents polyester resins from attacking the styrene
foam. PITA to remove the polystyrene foam should some stick to the part (some will). Easily removed with acetone in a squirt bottle. The acetone will dissolve the foam quickly. Recently did this on three complicated fiberglass parts. PITA in all.
Reply With Quote
  #440  
Old 19th April 2021, 16:48
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: norfolk
Posts: 691
Mitchelkitman is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rossnzwpi View Post
https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is.
Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene.
Just use polyisocyanurate board (trade call it PIR) Cellotex or similar - just peel off the foil off one side and paper off t'other (it really stinks when you do it!)
Works well with polyester resin. Also builders 'squirty foam' is useful and can be used to fill gaps or join boards.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +0. The time now is 10:18.

copyright © madabout-kitcars.com 2000-2024
terms and conditions | privacy policy