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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #21  
Old 19th May 2016, 09:53
Old Jock Old Jock is offline
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Thank you Paul L, John and Mick for your kind words.
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  #22  
Old 20th May 2016, 10:09
Old Jock Old Jock is offline
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Well, wheels now sorted. I bought these from Ebay plus 16 new wheel nuts. Wheels were £60 and nuts were £12.49 in bright zinc non rust finish. Just need to get the Freelander wheel studs and that's them sorted.
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File Type: jpg MGF Wheels.jpg (90.6 KB, 159 views)

Last edited by Old Jock; 26th May 2016 at 17:08.. Reason: Can now insert photos!
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  #23  
Old 20th May 2016, 17:56
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Cool
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  #24  
Old 20th May 2016, 18:59
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Had a lazy day today. Cleaned up the instruments I shall be using on the dashboard for the T48. The big one in the middle is the speedo from an early XJ6, the one to the right is the original Rev Counter from the Spitfire with the bezel polished back to chrome and the one on the left is a Tri-gauge set from I think a Triumph or MG of some sort. The layout you see will be directly in front of the driver with probably an ammeter and a clock to the left of this cluster along with various switches and warning lights etc. I got the Jaguar Speedo plus a Rev counter for £20. Initially, I was going to have a big rev counter in the middle with the smaller Triumph speedo to the right but decided that as the car is for the road not racing that the speedo took precedence. I have still to add the Ferrari emblems to the faces of the 3 gauges just for an extra bit of kidology!
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  #25  
Old 20th May 2016, 19:15
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Old Jock - I posted this message on the Tribute forum the other day and have just modified it for your post.

Hope it helps, Paul.

If I click on the attachment "DSC03889.jpg" then I can see both the photo and the following "address" at the top of the screen:

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...2&d=1463770556

If you put [img] in front of that address and then [/img] at the end, the photo will appear in the post.

So the code will look something like this:

[img]http…..0556[/img]

And this will be how it will appear.

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  #26  
Old 20th May 2016, 19:59
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Thanks for that Paul, I'll try it with the next photos I take.
Cheers, Paul (A)
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  #27  
Old 24th May 2016, 18:21
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Well, a little bit of an update as (some) progress has been made! The car port / shelter has walls and part of a roof on.


I cut the front, bumper support, off the chassis



Front suspension coming apart quite nicely


All gone - nearly!


Some bloody BL assembly worker's idea of a laugh!!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC03891.jpg (92.2 KB, 175 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03890.jpg (101.2 KB, 169 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03902.jpg (101.4 KB, 172 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03903.jpg (100.6 KB, 171 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03904.jpg (101.9 KB, 177 views)
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  #28  
Old 24th May 2016, 18:46
Old Jock Old Jock is offline
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And there's more!

All in a day's work - most of this stuff came off today. I have taken lots more photos so I don't have to rely on memory to know how it all goes back together.


And at last, a chair so I can sit down and admire my handiwork - so where's the well deserved beer then?


Well, that will be it for a few days I think. My wife is "suggesting" that I do some of the painting I started a few weeks ago but lost interest in when the bits for the Fiorano started to arrive. My Minilite / MGF wheels should have arrived today but unfortunately only the bright zinc plated wheel nuts made it. The kit is on order with Mick at Fiorano but it won't be available until the 24th of JUNE. I guess that gives me some time to clear out all the rubbish in my Mum's garage (and there is a lot!) and also figure out how I am going to fit the Fiorano kit plus my Honda CBR600f into a single garage. The plan is to do all the dirty work at my friend's farm house under the car port and once all the welding is done, the assembling stage of the kit will move to my Mum's garage.
I have asked Chic Doig for a price for all the parts to rebuild the front and rear suspension and will, hopefully, be going to collect them on Thursday or Friday. I can't really do much more until I have taken the engine and gearbox out. Then I can remove the outriggers, the gearbox mounting blocks and completely degrease the chassis. I am still waiting for a price to have the chassis shot blasted but if it's too dear, then I'll probably just attack it with wire brushes etc. then a rust killer. Any suggestions for an easy and relatively not messy product to use?
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File Type: jpg DSC03907.jpg (98.5 KB, 177 views)
File Type: jpg DSC03908.jpg (98.6 KB, 174 views)

Last edited by Old Jock; 25th May 2016 at 07:21.. Reason: bad spelling
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  #29  
Old 24th May 2016, 19:47
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Jjjjjjkjkkkkkk
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  #30  
Old 26th May 2016, 06:01
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Old Jock – Great progress.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Jock View Post
… I'll probably just attack it with wire brushes etc. then a rust killer. Any suggestions for an easy and relatively not messy product to use?
I’ve used “Kurust” on my build, which was the first time I’d used any sort of rust killer.

I like the fact it goes on a milky white, so you can see where you have “painted”.

You might need more than one coat to get the job done.

Hope that helps, Paul.

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Jjjjjjkjkkkkkk
Did you lean on the keyboard by mistake?

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  #31  
Old 26th May 2016, 07:31
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Thanks Paul L, Do you know if you can weld the metal after the Kurust has been applied, or do you have to do the welding first?
Cheers, Paul (A)
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  #32  
Old 26th May 2016, 17:16
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15" Minilites have landed!!!! Stripped the brake drums, wheel studs and brake shoes etc from rear half shafts. I'm taking them to Chic Doig for him to remove the rear hubs while I pick up my box of parts. Then it's time to start cleaning and painting the suspension parts, new bushes, bearings, nuts and bolts etc. - I could be some time!
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  #33  
Old 26th May 2016, 17:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Jock View Post
Thanks Paul L, Do you know if you can weld the metal after the Kurust has been applied, or do you have to do the welding first?
Cheers, Paul (A)
I always do the welding first. Less contaminates in the welded areas.
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  #34  
Old 26th May 2016, 20:31
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If I had to weld an area that had been previously covered in Kurust, I'd make sure the area was ground back to bare metal first.
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  #35  
Old 7th June 2016, 17:41
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Not much actual progress has been made recently. I removed the differential yesterday, which only took about 15 minutes, and generally faffed about for about an hour tidying up. Over the last few days I took delivery of a compressor, sandblaster hopper with a gun, 100 kilos of fine grit and protective headgear and respirator/air filter mask. I have decided to do the sandblasting of the chassis myself as there are plenty of other parts which need to be cleaned and de-rusted before they can be painted - hopefully I won't blow any holes in the chassis!
I have also been buying engine paint too - aluminium for the block and Ferrari Corsa red for the cylinder head (for those of you who don't already know, Testa Rossa means Red Head).
I checked that the engine is still free to turn and it is, but there is not too much compression. I can't find the old type Redex upper cylinder lubricant which was so good at releasing gummed-up piston rings so am going to try just putting clean engine oil down the bores to see if that works. We have put an extra steel beam in the roof of the car port to attach a chain hoist to, to get the engine and gearbox out. This will hopefully happen this coming weekend and then I can get on with degreasing the chassis etc before sandblasting the chassis and painting it with weld-through primer. With any luck that will all be done before the kit arrives towards the end of the month - fingers crossed!

Last edited by Old Jock; 7th June 2016 at 21:03..
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  #36  
Old 7th June 2016, 21:58
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Good luck, hope the sandblasting goes ok
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  #37  
Old 13th June 2016, 06:14
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Just found this thread through a link on the Sammio page. Looking forward to following progress but I have one observation so far: Triumph fitted the wishbone bolt that you can''t remove without first taking off the suspension turret as a safety measure - if the nut falls off the bolt can't drop out and leave you with no front wheel. I agree it's a PITA to fit and remove, but it's how Triumph intended.
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  #38  
Old 13th June 2016, 07:54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Towed View Post
Just found this thread through a link on the Sammio page. Looking forward to following progress but I have one observation so far: Triumph fitted the wishbone bolt that you can''t remove without first taking off the suspension turret as a safety measure - if the nut falls off the bolt can't drop out and leave you with no front wheel. I agree it's a PITA to fit and remove, but it's how Triumph intended.
Hi Mister Towed, Thanks for your clarification of the bolt problem. I wonder why they didn't do the same on the other side?
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  #39  
Old 13th June 2016, 15:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Jock View Post
Hi Mister Towed, Thanks for your clarification of the bolt problem. I wonder why they didn't do the same on the other side?
Somebody's probably replaced it at some time in the past by cutting off the old one and pushing a new one in from the wrong side. Or it could just be sh*te quality control at the factory.

All the current exploded diagrams from the main parts suppliers show those bolts going in towards the suspension turret, so I could be completely wrong about it being a safety feature, but that's what I was told by a retired Triumph engineer when I asked the same question.

With modern lock nuts you'll be fine whichever way round they go in.
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  #40  
Old 13th June 2016, 18:46
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Thanks once again. I will have to take the suspension turret off anyway as there is a bit of rust at the bottom which I found this morning while cleaning it. The work will have to wait for a while though as I have a trapped nerve in my neck, shoulder and bicep and it's too painful to do anything meaningful!
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