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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #21  
Old 2nd January 2012, 09:35
madmark madmark is offline
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In the background on your first photo is an awesome looking SD1

Those revolutions look good, but not on your car

Hope you are keeping accurate drawings and dimensions of all the bits you are creating. Note that a lot of wood is being used as opposed to alloy.!!

Sammio Ark ????
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  #22  
Old 2nd January 2012, 13:23
Roybo Roybo is offline
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can't wait to see the car with the front end wheels etc as i can't really make out what the complete profile will look like,but like what i've seen so far.also wondering about the headlight covers
and btw the revolutions look good even though they are wrong decade.
i'd consider then sprayed grey or silver a la cobra with a fake spinner
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  #23  
Old 2nd January 2012, 16:20
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oh ive been lucky ,the mrs has helped me build my sammio all the way, from grinding to winching out the engine,, and even taken the money i made from the herald parts on ebay, "BLESS HER"
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  #24  
Old 3rd January 2012, 07:07
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I know its blowing a gale outside and everyone has to go back to work but nows the time for some motivation.
V8 sammios are a different beast so for Charles and WCA take a look here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7pZE...0FEA8FAF3A2466

ok its not a sammio but the cockpit view and the growl from the engine it only takes a little imagination,
I cant wait to see these cars turn up at a meet or a show
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  #25  
Old 3rd January 2012, 07:44
madmark madmark is offline
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Fantastic, new paint scheme to be considered !!!
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  #26  
Old 3rd January 2012, 09:17
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Charman.tech Charman.tech is offline
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Roybo , good colour scheme for the revo's but Madmark may have something to say on that subject, they are his!

Headlight covers, a long way off yet but Gary has a solution

Roadster, yes that is exactly the sound I am looking for anyone one who considers putting in a radio to a V8 creation needs help from the men in white coats!

Madmark has some great ideas on colour schemes for the G46 two best are yellow (Jallow) over black bonnet stripe around fish mouth and along the cills, same in red with yellow(jallow) for the stripe and cills and you can't rule out white with Blue for the stripe & cills.

1950's Ferrari, Ferrari and Maserati colour schemes I believe.
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  #27  
Old 3rd January 2012, 09:37
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I've got to admit that those American V8's sound very distinctive, but I find them, dare I say it, a bit brash. A bit big mac and bucket of baskin robins, perhaps, where the smooth roar of a straight six is more my brie and grape baguette. Just listen to the last twenty seconds of Phil Jacklins shakedown run and you might just get what I mean. If you have a soul...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07F3cqfZJG0
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  #28  
Old 3rd January 2012, 14:34
madmark madmark is offline
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Default Colour clarification

When Charman Tech states colours his lack of literacy shines through ' jallow' is not correct. Giallo Fly with Nero is the colour, baring in mind his wifes heritage, it is an appalling mistake.

So mainly' yellow' body with black areas as stated, black seats and yellow piping NIRVANA
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  #29  
Old 3rd January 2012, 22:00
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Wire wheels G46

We borrowed a couple of wire wheels off a friend this evening to see how they look on the car



They are from a series 3 E type so quite available as will the hub adaptors. We noticed image do a very nice alloy wheel which replicated the D Type wheel, whist reasonable when compared to some still expensive.



Tyres & wheels sizes are 205 70 15 inch, I think they look very period and I think they would go with jut about every colour scheme



They are 72 spoke wheels

We also finished the front bulk head sides using cardboard templates which will replicate and send to Gary for future use by other builders we cut then quite tight leaving enough gap for a silicon seal





using a 10mm ply and the rectangular footwell infill in a 6mm ply also using some battens to secure the panels to each other and self tapped together as Gary said in earlier posts the whole body work takes on unbelievable strength when this all comes together



The front and rear goal posts are now bolted in position and door cills bolted to to the body and the floor plan, lots of adjustment and fettling needed but we have ended up with each side being dimensionally equal with acceptable tolerance.

We are liking the wire wheel option for it's period character, availability and cost, but would appreciate comments or suggestions
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  #30  
Old 4th January 2012, 06:35
madmark madmark is offline
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Default wheels

Think these wheels would look good finished in a gold colour
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  #31  
Old 4th January 2012, 14:35
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Good work guys.....

I think the wires look fantastic.

Is that a slightly radiused rear arch marked out there I see....?

Keep it coming , you are doing a great job...I know people have looked concerned in the past when they collect their floppy glass bodyshell , but as you say , it becomes really strong when all the bulkheads/ bonding etc is done....

Last edited by lancelot link; 4th January 2012 at 14:37..
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  #32  
Old 4th January 2012, 14:49
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I was hoping to do my floor / bulk heads in aluminium or steel.

Any clever ways to bond the ally plate to the round steel chassis without the metals reacting?

Any clever ways to fix the steel plate to the round steel chassis without the ability to weld?

If I work out what I am doing, and eventually get round to starting, I too will send you the templates for future builders to use Gary.

Nice work on the G46 so far. I would have come up to see this week but the weather has been terrible. Have you got a link to where I can get some of those wheels. I am not sure mine suit the G46 :

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  #33  
Old 4th January 2012, 15:13
garyh garyh is offline
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Default What about rivets?

Lots of...
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  #34  
Old 4th January 2012, 15:16
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Wasn't sure about riveting into the chassis tubes. I have a feeling I will need to learn to weld.

i saw on one forum a bloke using double sided 3M tape to hold Alu sheets onto a metal frame for a motor home he was building. Not sure I fancy double sided sticky tape holding my body to the chassis.
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  #35  
Old 4th January 2012, 15:21
garyh garyh is offline
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Default chassis isn't ally... is it?

Welding will come in handy, i'm nearly ready to start myself
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  #36  
Old 4th January 2012, 15:42
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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TVR's finest steel. Doesn't seem too rusty either. I think I will try to find someone with a welding kit I can borrow to practice on. How hard can it be ...
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  #37  
Old 4th January 2012, 15:56
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I was hoping to do my floor / bulk heads in aluminium or steel.

Any clever ways to bond the ally plate to the round steel chassis without the metals reacting?



When I worked on jet fighters we plastered everything that had an ally-steel contact with a paste jointing compound to prevent electrolytic corrosion between the dissimilar metals. Can't remember the brand but a quick google search threw this one up and it looks similar:

http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/duralac.pdf

Without it the aluminium turned to white powder very quickly and the fighter jets tended to turn into smoking holes in the ground, which could be detrimental to your pension if you'd put the part together that failed.

Just as an example of what electrolytic corrosion can do, back in the mid eighties the ammunition that went in the aircraft guns started spontaneously exploding.

Luckily(?) it was the propellant that was detonating rather than the high explosive in the projectile, so it was a relatively small explosion with only a little fragmentation of the cartridge cases (which are about the size of a 250ml beer bottle). It would still spoil your day if you happened to be holding it at the time though.

It happened so often that we had to wear body armour, a face shield and kevlar gloves while handling the ammunition and loading the guns. Without getting too technical and breaching the official secrets act, the ammunition has a steel cartridge case with an electrically initiated brass firing cap set in the centre, which is isolated from the case by a plastic insulating ring.

After lots of head scratching by the boffins at the armament research lab they discovered the following: The ammunition was being manufactured for the British by the Italians to a German design. The specification sheet called for a particular type of varnish (shellac, made from recycled beetles, very green. Erm, brown, actually) to be applied over the base of the cartridge to prevent moisture from collecting between the case and the firing cap. If this were to happen, dissimilar metal corrosion would quickly turn the moisture into an electrolyte, making the cartridge into a ferrous/copper battery. Once sufficient potential built up in that battery the firing cap would initiate as advertised and the propellant would go bang, blowing the case apart.

Only the Italians didn't have any of the special varnish so they used something they saw a chap pasting on pizzas in a Bistro. Which was acidic and turned every cannon shell they produced into a time bomb. All for want of a Lira's worth of varnish.

But you tell the young folks that these days and they don't believe you, no they won't...

Oh, and welding's not so difficult. Give it a try, you might surprise yourself.
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  #38  
Old 4th January 2012, 16:26
Roybo Roybo is offline
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pretty sure most kit cars use sikaflex and rivets apparently holds stronger than screws http://www.ruderacing.co.uk/Workshop...duct_info.html
the adhesive is ideal for aluminium sheet on a steel frame
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  #39  
Old 8th January 2012, 11:44
Roybo Roybo is offline
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what would you gamble the final weight will be?considering the scim is 1188kg
i know it's early to be thinking about that but with saving 50kg + on the engine
having no glass, roof ,rear seats carpets insulation you should be easily under the ton
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  #40  
Old 8th January 2012, 19:03
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Default Charlie pass me the angle grinder!

Well we thought we had chopped away as much of the old scimitar as we dare, but decided we had better test fit the V8 engine and box and as a result the old angle grinder has been out and more of the bulkhead had to go.



From the engine bay, we had decided to set the engine further back than the SE5 boys do as we have the luxury of having the space, we may have to move the pedal box back as well



from inside the car at least we wont need a heater!!!!!!!!!!!!



We have also decided to test fit the front suspension to see whether we could actually get the exhaust behind the wheels, we are using E Type series three wire wheels with 205 x 15 x 70's tyres

We acquired off e-bay last week for 132.0 at set of TVR 350i and discovery headers and the next photo shows our efforts last thing this afternoon to cut and fabricate them to suit our motor we are thinking of taking them under the door cills both sides and exiting them from behind the doors on the a bit like the DB3 Aston Martins, there is more than enough room in the side cills to lose the cherry bomb silence but we do not want to loose the line of the car, so it's an idea in development





Gary I like the door hinges you have used on the Vitesse based car you are doing

Re the weight of the finish car I think we will be down around 800 - 850kgs the Hawk 289 I build some some years ago came out at 80kgs

Been a slow week what with work and more of the same next week
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