Fatbloke builds a Spyder - Page 13

fatbloke · #**241** 14th June 2016, 16:26

Thanks guys. The photographs hide a whole host of horrors but I think most of these can be sorted once the paint has properly hardened and i can cut it back. Only two more coats to go.

Barber · #**242** 14th June 2016, 16:31

The narrow boat chappie did light brush strokes after the roller application. Are you doing that or just depending on volume to cut back?

Mister Towed · #**243** 14th June 2016, 16:40

Lovely colour, it's going to look fabulous on the road.

fatbloke · #**244** 14th June 2016, 16:45

Just looking to get a good, thick layer with the roller to allow me to cut the surface back off. It worked quite well on the bonnet, although the edges are, inevitably, thin.

Lucky@LeMans · #**245** 14th June 2016, 17:15

What sort of roller did you use ? Was it one of those more solid foam types ?

Did you flat down the primer or not before the top coat ?

Looking good though, wait a few weeks before wet n drying.

fatbloke · #**246** 14th June 2016, 17:30

High density foam rollers. I removed the lumpy bits from the primer but didn't flat it as I knew the gloss would be just as orange peeley (is that a word?). I'm going to give at least a month to harden before going near it with and wet and dry after the final coat.

jones · #**247** 14th June 2016, 18:09

It would make the process long and more laborious but I would let it harden between coats and flatten back. I believe from my limited experience of painting (please note only spraying not rollering) is that if you paint over the peaks and troughs of the orange peel will just be accentuate the peaks. This means when you come to do final flattening back you would be more susceptible to going through to primer if attemptingto get a true flat surface for depth of shine.

This is just an uniformed guesstimate so feel free to ignore.

fatbloke · #**248** 14th June 2016, 18:25

Cheers, all advice welcomed.

molleur · #**249** 14th June 2016, 18:58

Oh, please.
Light coats, let dry and flatten.
Another light coat, etc.

Saves labor in the end.

fatbloke · #**250** 14th June 2016, 19:22

One problem with leaving it to harden and flatten is that I have borrowed the garage it's in so I only have a week to do this It's a questions of getting the paint on and sorting it out in my drive a few weeks down the line.

molleur · #**251** 14th June 2016, 19:52

Best of luck..

lancelot link · #**252** 14th June 2016, 20:41

If its possible , electric or gas wise ..maybe get some heat on in the garage to help harden the paint off quicker ...

Mark Burton · #**253** 14th June 2016, 21:37

Don't use anything gas wise near primer or paint.

Roadster · #**254** 14th June 2016, 22:59

I have painted with a roller.
My advice is to make sure the roller is loaded and no air bubbles.
Apply light pressure to the roller on the tray until all bubbles have gone before you start to apply to the body.
The paint on the roller will last longer than you think and rolling one way and then again at 90 degrees helps remove deep texture.

https://youtu.be/IZL-F9Zf02Q

Looks good and I think you will get a good finish even before you cut back and polish.

Jaguartvr · #**255** 15th June 2016, 07:49

I have painted our Yacht hull a couple of times. I use the foam roller and also a foam brush for the parts you can't get the roller into.
I found it best not to put the paint on too thickly but to give it a second coat when the first was just becoming tacky. The roller and foam brush leave no brush marks and I have managed to paint it twice over the years with no paint runs or marks. The paint is however especially for a boat hull and is designed to flow out but also not to run as it is always applied to a vertical surface.
Would be interesting to see how it worked on a car as the hulls on boats are often polished when hauled out of the water so if painted onto a car body shell they should also be able to be polished. I have always used International Paint as it is designed for boats.

Paul L · #**256** 15th June 2016, 13:33

FatBloke - Love the colour.

I don't think there is any chance of random lorry drivers asking if it is an MX5 now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatbloke

...I have borrowed the garage it's in so I only have a week to do this It's a questions of getting the paint on and sorting it out in my drive a few weeks down the line...

I think this is what needs to be taken into account more.

It is not that you are ignoring the good painting advice given on here.

It is more that you are not in a position to follow that advice and need to compromise.

Either way, I am looking forward to seeing this on the road.

Good luck, Paul.

molleur · #**257** 15th June 2016, 14:33

I think that fatbloke will do a creditable job of it despite his restrictions.
Determination prevails.

Barber · #**258** 15th June 2016, 15:33

As stated earlier in the thread, what has he got to lose? I hope it all works out, like you say, determination carries a lot of sway, and time to correct.

fatbloke · #**259** 15th June 2016, 19:22

Thanks all - took your sage advice and cut the first coat back with a wet sand before applying the second coat and it looks much better, much less lemon peel.

Tomorrow will be coat three and the paint is hard enough for a wet sanding after being left overnight. There is another advantage with a bit of sanding as it's easier to see where you are applying the new paint on the flat finish (well durr!)

Oh, and the flies are easily removed with 600 grit wet and dry.

molleur · #**260** 15th June 2016, 19:28

Looking really well done! Keep at it.