Swifty's Navigator

[swifty]

I thought i would take advantage of the unusual warm weather and prep the interior before hopefully spraying tomorrow that is if the temperature stays above 10 degree's.

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Seats firmly attached to the floor with the gearbox tunnel and prop shaft cover fitted for the last time before painting commences in case any adjustments were required.


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Masked off the areas were no paint is required. First i will apply two coats of etch primer to all the interior followed by silver cellulose on the sides, front bulk head and rear bulk head with black truck liner to the floor panels. If the black does not look right then i may give it a coat or two of the silver cellulose, that is if it does not react with the bed liner so will do a test panel first.
May apply the bed liner to the floor with a roller to give a texture finish.


Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[Mister Towed]

Interior is looking very period indeed. Nice.

[Paul L]

Looking forward to seeing the interior painted.

[swifty]

Today put two layers of etch primer on then four layers of cellulose silver, it wasn't the easiest of parts to spray due to the tube section in front of the ally back panel and trying to get an even coat as was possible, consequently Ive a couple of runs on the back panel to sort out once the paint drys.

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It does not look to bad, next the floor will be painted in bed liner that is once the silver paint has gone off so that masking tape can be put along the side edges.


Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[jones]

Swifty, that looks great the attention to detail and quality of your finishing touches is going to make for an awesome finished product. Can't wait to hopefully see this at a show or two next year!?

[swifty]

Cheers Mr T and Jones. I am trying to create a build of deception, that is to make what is basically a cheap kit look like a period car and to hopefully have people wondering what it is and it's true age, but time will tell.

[Mister Towed]

Originally Posted by swifty

Cheers Mr T and Jones. I am trying to create a build of deception, that is to make what is basically a cheap kit look like a period car and to hopefully have people wondering what it is and it's true age, but time will tell.

Waaaay ahead of you

[swifty]

Mr T The look on the faces in the crowd say it all especially the older guy in red trousers and the young guy in shorts with sunglasses and black spiked hair.


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Anybody used POR 15, thinking of either a brush or roller application, spraying is out of the question as it not good for the lungs without an air fed mask. Basically i was looking for advice as to the finish you get with either a brush or roller and would it be better to pre-heat the surface first at this time of year.

[jones]

Hi Swifty, I am keen to find out how this goes for you as I was thinking to use it for mine to including the boot.

With regards to heat, yes warm the metal it will prevent runs and help retain a texture if thats the look you are after. Just don't make it too warm as it will pull the paint as you roller it, if thats the route you choose.

[davecymru]

WOW! Loving the interior, V.Impressed!

[swifty]

Yesterday the first coat or POR15 was painted on by brush then a second coat first thing this morning which has turned out ok.

The surface finish is slightly rougher than anticipated but once the seats etc are in place it will look ok. It certainly looks to of sealed the whole floor area very well and has a rubber feel so hopefully no cracks or splits will appear in the future.

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I've tried to shown the surface finish in the second image, when mixed in the tin it has small particles which gives it a rough texture. Thought I would mention this in case anybody else is thinking of using this paint.


Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[Mister Towed]

Looks fine to me so long as it sets dry. You won't be able to see much of the floor once the seats are in anyway.

On the road before the New Year then?

[phil9]

good job car looks fab

[swifty]

Cheers Guys.

MrT I would like to think it could be on the road today but alas other things are in the way. Been chipping away at the final flattening of the paint which is taking for ever so today i though i might try to polishing with the mop without flattening with 2000 grit wet and dry and see if the finish is any different and hopefully if not will save a lot of work.

I will post pictures to compare.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[Mister Towed]

Still forty five minutes of 2015 left. You could still make it...

Happy New Year!

[Paul L]

Swifty - The black looks good.

[swifty]

Happy New Year to You All



Cheers Paul, once the interior is fitted if I think its no good I can always paint it silver.

Been busy polishing the paint and tried a few different techniques to see if I could miss out a step or two but it looks like the best way is to first rub the paint down with 2000 grit wet and dry with plenty of water with a little liquid soap added for lubrication, then squeegee off to reveal any imperfections against the matt paint surface and concentrate on the areas requiring further rubbing down before mopping with G3 paste.

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These are the imperfections that become visible after rubbing down with 2000 grit, not so visible prior to rubbing down.



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A close up image of the dashboard top rolled edge before any work done to the paint, ive tried to show the reflection of the light fitting as it's a good gauge as to how flat the paint surface is, which in this shot is not very flat, you can tell as the reflection is blurred with no sharp edges to the light fitting reflection.




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The same area on the dashboard top as the previous image after rubbing down with 2000 grit and polishing with a buffing sponge and G3 paste. The light fitting reflection is now sharp with definite sharp edges plus the colour becomes rich and deeper.


So far the bonnet and dash top have been polished which has taken about 10 hours just the rest of the car to do then I will go over the whole body again with a buffing sponge and G10 followed by a coating of wax. Now that I have worked out the best way to tackle this it should be a lot quicker.


Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[swifty]

Spent a couple of hours today rubbing down and polishing which hopefully will be complete by monday/tuesday next week.

Below is images of the steps taken to achieve a good finish.


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Painted surface before any flattening has been done. The hump on the right has been flattened and polish which shows in the finish.





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Painted surface flattened with 1500 grit and plenty of water. I've found that once the initial flattening is complete squeegee the water/paint residue off then shine a bright light on to the surface which reveals any further defects in the paint i.e. dust particles under the paint which have not been removed then go over the defects again with 1500 wet and dry, squeegee and re check.




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G3 polishing compound applied with a mist of water.






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Mop polished with G3 compound, again the use of a bright light shows any rough scratches which if present i mop over again with G3.

Once the whole body has been polished with G3 i will clean the whole surface again before mopping with G10 finishing compound to remove any fine scratches.


Well that's it for now see you all soon.

[Paul L]

Swifty - Thanks for talking us through how you are finishing off your paintwork, it is a big help.

Whilst it sounds like a lot of work, it certainly looks like you are going to end up with a great finish.

Good luck, Paul.

[davecymru]

You're a better man than me! I painted mine, did a quick flat and polish and then got it MOT'd and out-n-about .

i will flat it all off one day..... .one day