Swifty's Navigator - Page 33

Paul L · #**641** 12th March 2016, 05:20

Swifty - And I thought just painting the inside edge of my bonnet opening yellow was going to be tricky.

As for stickers, I've already picked up a few small ones from Ebay (Chronograph Heuer, Shell, Castrol, etc, ).

But I am still debating about whether to use a big Triumph motorcycle sticker like AndyP57.

Good luck, Paul.

swifty · #**642** 13th March 2016, 18:21

Looking to use exhaust wrap, ive come across two type's one is fiberglass and the other is volcanic rock integrated into fabric.

Any body got experience with either of these, what width tape is best and roughly what length is required to wrap a 6 cylinder manifold.

swifty · #**643** 13th March 2016, 21:07

Been posting on other sites and the general consensus is that stainless manifolds don't like to be wrap up so i may drop that one, contacted a few suppliers to see what their thoughts are.

What i am trying to prevent is fuel vapor lock, if the engine is hot it wont start i have to wait 10-15 mins then it starts. A heat shield is already fitted between the carbs and exhaust, one problem area is i re-routed the fuel line around the back of the block which is both close to the hot block and cylinder 6 exhaust manifold pipe so this may be a possible vapor lock point plus it is after the pump which is new but would lack enough pressure to overcome fuel vapor lock so i am thinking may be try pipe insulation if this doesn't work then a electric fuel pump with a return line to keep the fuel moving and use the petrol in the tank as the heat sink.

Judging by the amount of posts on the net the triumph gt6 engine is prone to this especially with modern fuels with ethanol, thanks very much EU.

If anybody has had fuel vapor lock and come up with a solution then i will be interested to hear what the solution is.

phil9 · #**644** 14th March 2016, 05:29

have a look at my old posts [pics] to see my fuel/ex set up the rap was £60 i do not get heat prob can put my hand on it after 15 mile s in summer car still run great hope you sort it

Mister Towed · #**645** 14th March 2016, 06:22

I used cheap heat wrap from ebay and covered from the downpipe back (I was going to do the manifold but it just looked too fiddly so I never bothered).

This was to keep the exhaust heat from soaking into the cockpit rather than to prevent vapour locks in the fuel and it does that admirably.

I haven't suffered any serious vapour lock issues - on one of my trips to Goodwood Revival I got stuck in very heavy traffic on a hot day on the outskirts of Brighton on the way back to the hotel on the Friday evening, and with the engine temperature alarmingly high the motor cut out then took about 30 seconds of cranking before it (thankfully) fired again - but that's the only time and I don't even have those stainless carb shields that a lot of Triumph Sixes seem to run.

Have you checked that your new fuel pump is fitted correctly and pushing enough fuel through? Just a thought.

swifty · #**646** 14th March 2016, 07:26

Phil Is the manifold stainless i cant tell from the picture.

Mr T If you dont have a heat sheild fitted and have not experienced fuel vapour issues then it looks like my problem is pointing to the re routed fuel line around the back of the block, small bore fuel line close to exhaust manifold equals fuel vapour lock.

phil9 · #**647** 14th March 2016, 18:49

yes s/steel manifold i too have ex/pipe done like towed my mate has a gt6 thats gets very hot ...me barry had no probs ...thermo tec garantee 70% very big in usa oval racing have you run the car far to see what its like ....get fuel line away for motor 1st good luck look at my pics page 22

swifty · #**648** 15th March 2016, 18:53

Thanks Phil, Ive ordered 100ft x 2 inch exhaust wrap and 1 mtr of reflective heat shield sleeve to cover the copper pipe at the rear of the block, hopefully this will sort the problem.

Made two bracket's to hold the tow eye made many months back, will more than likely mount it in the boot but may see if there is somewhere in the cockpit area as it looks too good to be hidden out of the way.

IMG_6586.jpg IMG_6588.jpg

Made from ally with a couple of o rings to cushion and hold the eye in place.

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The tow eye is made from stainless.

phil9 · #**649** 16th March 2016, 05:18

great work.... car's the top off the tree love to see it one day

DaveP · #**650** 16th March 2016, 05:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by swifty

Thanks Phil, Ive ordered 100ft x 2 inch exhaust wrap and 1 mtr of reflective heat shield sleeve to cover the copper pipe at the rear of the block, hopefully this will sort the problem.

Made two bracket's to hold the tow eye made many months back, will more than likely mount it in the boot but may see if there is somewhere in the cockpit area as it looks too good to be hidden out of the way.

Attachment 3328 Attachment 3329

Made from ally with a couple of o rings to cushion and hold the eye in place.

Attachment 3330

The tow eye is made from stainless.

Gorgeous work. Definitely too nice to keep hidden

Dave

swifty · #**651** 18th March 2016, 18:41

Quote:

Gorgeous work. Definitely too nice to keep hidden

Are looking for a good mount as it is just a little too good to hide away.

Starting to get to the bottom of the To Do List, today i made progress with the undressed top edge of the perspex screen.

IMG_6394.jpg IMG_6396.jpg

Used a fine flat file to radius the edge then finished with 1500 grit wet and dry.

IMG_6602.jpg

Not to bad of a finish just have to be extra careful the front or rear surface is not rubbed other wise you end up with a badly marked screen, might look for a acrylic polish to finish off which also may come in handy for any future scratches.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

Paul L · #**652** 19th March 2016, 06:45

Swifty - Nice work on the screen edge.

I'll have to do something similar on my rear view mirror wind deflector.

Really looking forward to the final unveiling in all its glory.

Good luck, Paul.

PS
The Londoner in me says keep the shiny tow eye out of view in case a "magpie" takes it.

swifty · #**653** 19th March 2016, 16:11

Partial success with the fuel vapor issue.

IMG_6604.jpg

Heat shield sleeve fitted over the copper pipe.

IMG_6605.jpg

Fuel line back in place ready to start.

After letting the engine warm up the front carb decided to flood yet again so it was off with the fuel bowl, float needle valve removed and blown through, i must of getting some debris in the fuel line, reassembled and all was ok.again.

This was a partial result in that the engine did not refuse to start this time but took about 6 turns to start so partial result. Tomorrow i'll start to strip the inlet manifold off then the exhaust manifold to cover in exhaust wrap.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

jones · #**654** 19th March 2016, 17:58

Swifty are you heading to Stoneleigh with this car? I need to see it in the flesh, I love the details.

swifty · #**655** 20th March 2016, 19:30

Paul

Quote:

The Londoner in me says keep the shiny tow eye out of view in case a "magpie" takes it.

I live well away from London but i did have reservations about things on view but my intentions are to always use the tonneau cover when car left unattended that is if i can find a reasonable priced cover.

Jones Not sure just yet if ill take the spyder or travel in luxury.

Today fitted the exhaust wrap which was fairly easy to do apart from removing the manifold.

IMG_6606.jpg IMG_6608.jpg

IMG_6610.jpg

Also wrapped the exhaust pipe back to the rear of the car to add some heat protection.

IMG_6609.jpg IMG_6611.jpg

All parts refitted. Ran the engine until the fans kicked in twice to make sure there was enough heat and switched engine off with crossed fingers, waited a couple of mins and guess what the engine refused to start plus the left hand carb started to flood or at least that's what i thought, pulled the fuel line off and the petrol squirted out as if it was under a high pressure refitted fuel hose and engine started.
My next thought is to move the fuel line to run along the bulk head shelf taking it away from the rear of the block, so have ordered a couple of meters of fuel line and a t piece to pipe in temporary and see what that does plus im going to fit a fuel pressure gauge to see what the new mechanical pump is putting out.

One thing has come out of the wrap and that's the engine bay is a lot quieter but the noise out of the rear is deeper so i have achieve something plus the engine bay is cooler, you can even touch the exhaust manifold with out melting your skin.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

Paul L · #**656** 21st March 2016, 17:59

Neat (as in tidy) job on the wrapping.

I've also got a couple of rolls on that stuff to fit to my exhaust at some point.

Good luck, Paul.

davecymru · #**657** 22nd March 2016, 11:44

That looks really neat.

I've always been in two minds about exhaust wrap and it's benefits, so I'll be really interested to see how you get on with it fitted and the effects it has

swifty · #**658** 22nd March 2016, 17:55

davecymru The only thing i think i will be able to judge is weather or not the wrap keeps the cockpit cool, regards increase in power if any i don't have a reference to compare with as the car has never been driven on the road.

While i am waiting for the extra fuel line etc to arrive Ive been thinking about the none start when hot problem and Ive just realized i missed something out in the rebuild of the engine. There's a heat insulator between each carb and inlet manifold, i seem to remember removing them when i stripped the engine down but some how Ive lost them so after searching online to buy a couple Ive found they are no longer unavailable so decided to make a couple out of Tufnol myself.

There pretty easy to make, first make a cardboard template of the carb mount face transfer this onto the Tufnol, rough cut the outline with a band saw, drill the two mount holes and bolt the two together then with a hole saw drill the large center hole and finish off the outer profile with a belt sander leaving them bolted together so as they end up the same. All done and as those little fury animals say SIMPLE'S......

IMG_6613.jpg IMG_6617.jpg

My intentions are to leave them off until i see if the re-routed fuel line works then fit the Tufnol insulators.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

deggsy · #**659** 22nd March 2016, 18:33

Ceramic coating the manifold/exhaust is supposed to work well don't know about the cost though.

swifty · #**660** 23rd March 2016, 18:11

deggsy The wrap has definitely cooled the exhaust manifold as you can now touch the pipes when hot without melting your skin so i would say it has done what it is supposed to do.

A questions for you guys, are any of you running a GT6 engine with unleaded petrol containing ethanol in either 5% (E5) mix or 10% (E10) mix OR do you stick with the Super Unleaded products as most of these are ethanol free E0 (at the moment) from the main oil companies apart from Shell who refuse to comment on weather or not their super unleaded is ethanol free so the general consensus is it's a least a 5% ethanol mix.

This is just a though in respect to the none start when hot problem i am having at the moment possibly linked to the way ethanol behaves in a hot combustion engine, i have a couple of gallon in the tank bought from Sainsbury's in the standard unleaded fuel mix so will assume it contains ethanol but will check the next time i call at the petrol station. My next purchase will be a super unleaded mix to see how that fairs but in the meantime any info would be appreciated.