MOT Fail

AndyDane · #1 17th February 2009, 11:17

OK, some things are easy to fix but others.....
Rear Brake lights sticking on - easy
front headlamp aim - straightforward
Front Brake imbalance - hmmm, not sure what to do about this
Rear springs damaged by excessive heat - damnit - thats the build process!

OK, so clearly I need new springs for the back and I can see a few old threads for custom made ones and apex ones - anyone got any feedback on their rear springs for me?

Will be asking Marlin if they still heat them and shorten them too - clearly be warned anyone who was thinking of trying it!

and anyone any bright ideas of front brake imbalance?

cheers
Andy
L48 DUE - BMW sportster from an E36 325

Rich · #2 17th February 2009, 11:35

doh, at least it isn't too much stuff.

For the Front Brake imbalance; you could try bleeding the lines again, check for any kinks or dings in the copper brake lines.
If there is nothing wrong there you could give the callipers a rebuild.

GreatOldOne · #3 17th February 2009, 11:39

My rear springs where modified by Marlin for me, and as far as can see, they where chopped and the the top coil colapsed to give a proper fit on the upper spring seat. None of the 'active' portion of the spring was heated.

How does the MOT man know they where 'damaged' by heat? They passed SVA, didn't they?

GreatOldOne · #4 17th February 2009, 11:47

Here's my springs:

Unpainted:

Painted and Installed:

Patrick · #5 17th February 2009, 13:24

Personally I wouldn't put cut or collapsed springs on my car for safety reasons. Cutting screws up the spring seat, heating and collapsing weakens the spring.

This is why I went for rear coil overs from Gaz for the E30 - they are a bit short, I have them on the highest ride height setting which visually to me seems pretty much spot on.

On the callipers, it could be the piston has rusted up so you could try popping them out and giving it a clean up. As Richard said if its bad a rebuild or replace would be the safest option.

peterux · #6 17th February 2009, 21:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyDane

OK, some things are easy to fix but others.....
Rear Brake lights sticking on - easy
Rear springs damaged by excessive heat - damnit - thats the build process!

OK, so clearly I need new springs for the back and I can see a few old threads for custom made ones and apex ones - anyone got any feedback on their rear springs for me?

cheers
Andy
L48 DUE - BMW sportster from an E36 325

That's bad luck after getting it all passed the SVA only last year!
Sounds like the shortened rear springs were not painted before they were fitted or else he wouldn't have been able to tell they had been heated and shortened.
I think MOT testers are very nervous about anything out of the ordinary.

I didn't fancy getting my springs shortened by Marlin so I used aftermarket shortened springs. I picked up a secondhand pair of Apex ones off eBay but there are lots of different makes around. They are a bit pricey when new especially if they come as a set including the front springs (which you don't need but might be able to sell on) but secondhand ones often come up where people buy them and then don't get round to fitting them. Just type something like "e36 lowering rear springs" in the ebay search box and you'll get some options.
Mine were for an BMW e30 as i have an e30 based Sportster. They were to lower a standard car by 60mm and fit just right on the Sportster and I can raise and lower the back of my car with the adjustable spring seats.
( I guess you might get away with painting your springs bright red and tell the guy you swapped them or take the car to another MOT station?

)

My brake lights stick on if the brake pedal pivot is a bit too tight. I think the return spring is a bit weak.

good luck geting it sorted, Peter

Patrick · #7 17th February 2009, 23:15

One thought on the brake pedal, ours did that too but its not due to the pivots as we installed bearings instead of those plastic things that came with the kit.

We found the server didn't move the pedal far enough back to turn the brakes on. Easy solution was to add some rubber padding to the pedal where it touches the switch

AndyDane · #8 18th February 2009, 21:40

Yes the brake pedal needs a return spring on it to lift it that last 1/4 inch or so - thought I'd adjusted the switch sufficiently but clearly not. Not found a spring yet thats strong enough the pull the pedal back without interfering with the action.

never thought about hiding the heat damage by painting the springs! too late now!

looking for lowering springs on the web - thankyou for that tip

Andy