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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 18th February 2008, 22:53
DavidH DavidH is offline
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Default What length did you use?

OK this is probs gonna show me up as a complete beginner.

When buying rivets, they come in different lengths. Whats the best length for panel fixing. Logic would tell me the longer the better as it means more head the opposite side within reason?

If I had to guess I would probs go for 14mm. e.g http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18223/...ing-4-8-x-14mm Am I guessing right?

David.
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Old 18th February 2008, 23:05
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16mm sealed.
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Old 19th February 2008, 08:40
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David stainless rivets are better, ali rivnuts
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Old 19th February 2008, 09:45
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I’m not going to profess to knowing much on this topic, but from what I recall stainless steel is considerably more noble on the galvanic series than aluminium and steel. For this reason I used sealed aluminium rivets, else (as I understand things), by using stainless fasteners the aluminium will corrode in the region of the stainless fastener, when in a damp environment. If you use aluminium fasteners, then the only metals in the damp environment are aluminium, and thus the potential difference of the two materials should be very small (slight amount due to different grades of aluminium).

Like I said, I’m far from an expert, and my knowledge is based upon shady memories of a-level chemistry from well over a decade ago, but if you’re considering the longevity of what you’re building, it’s probably worth giving some thought to moisture exposure and galvanic corrosion.

I think sealed rivets are wise, as they won’t allow moisture to enter the chassis tubes through the centre of the rivet.
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Old 19th February 2008, 17:10
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Well I dont know anything either about such things! the reason I used stainless rivets is because on the lotus when the floors panels are re-done under warranty which most have been they used stainless.

having said that in all honesty it does not really matter as our floors are 1 mm thick ali and the elises are 1.5mm and they only last about 5 years before they need ripping off and new floors put on
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Old 19th February 2008, 18:02
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Are we talking about floor pans? As mine is made of galvanised steel. Have Marlin gone down the Aluminium route to save weight.

Mike
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Old 19th February 2008, 18:19
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Yes I was thinking of the floor pans and balkheads, as far as I'm aware (spec sheet) they are all Ali now.

Interestingly I have been doing some reading on grip of rivets for depths of materials, as I realised I knew nothing about them and have been on some quite boring audio calls today ;-) Manufacturers sites suggest for 16mm length that means the thickness for grip is between 8.5 and11.5mm. If the panels are 1mm thick then is the chassis walls 7.5mm thick?

Last edited by DavidH; 19th February 2008 at 18:40.. Reason: added link to spec sheets
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Old 19th February 2008, 19:22
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My floor is galvanised steel. Sides are aluminium.

Maybe my memory has failed me on the rivet lengths - I've none left to check.
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Old 19th February 2008, 19:37
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re-reading the Marlin order sheet I was wrong the floors are still galv steel. as is the rad top mounts,tubular tail hinge front v-brace and tunnel base.

The bulkheads and the internal tunnel is the Ali parts.

Out of interest has anyone done a template for the front Ali panels in the front clam. I decided not to order these from Marlin but rather make them myself, but am now thinking that they need to match the curve of the front clam which of course I won't have
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Old 19th February 2008, 22:15
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Can't comment on others but my front ali panels for clam were marked out from marlin but were miles out! Also the laser cut front bulkhead was completely wrong so that had to be botched
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