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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Miglia Builds and discussion

Miglia Builds and discussion Miglia bodied builds

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  #141  
Old 31st October 2014, 17:56
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^^^^ what he said .

I am not totally familiar with the Miglia framework , so can't fully comment on how their version works

My memory of the Sammio version was that the front edge of the cockpit rear (?! ) was fully supported by the framework to do just what Towed said above.

Even a piece of aluminium box section ran along under that edge and supported by 2 legs of ally box to create a 'goalpost' and bonded in place or fixed with a row of wide headed rivets through the body on the top surface or something similar would help and be in keeping with the whole alewminum interior , maybe ?
Choose a box dimension less or equal to the depth of the lip , 1'' maybe , and you will virtually not notice it.

You can probably use bonding paste and clamp the ally with G clamps and then fit the uprights into place after its cured . no need to weld it together and you could pie cut the top bar to fit the curve if necessary , again , no need to weld it as when bonded in place , it aint going anywhere !

Really liking the way the car is shaping up , by the way , rear light configuration works well , interior is well worth the effort too. This could be a nice little car.

Last edited by EL PRIMER; 31st October 2014 at 18:03..
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  #142  
Old 9th November 2014, 18:39
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TBH with my old Sammio I found that the corner of the cockpit by the hump coupled with the central tunnel and the top of the side got more of a hammering. Although I did have central seat-belts so that may have been a factor in how I got in-n-out?




That said, what I've decided to do with the Miglia is bond right-angle alloy from the top edge of the rear panels to the underside body to seal off the back of the cockpit. Then rivet an alloy Z section from the rear cockpit lip to the alloy panel. Creating a box section running along the rear edge, that should give more than enough strength

(it should make more sense in pictures when I get around to it!)


This past week has been all about the front suspension.
The new 8" x 325lbs x 2 1/2" springs turned up and I was worried at first as they do look a lot shorter than the "lowered" springs from Rimmers that I'd fitted that I'd had knocking around for a few years that turned out to be 11 1/2"




But before I could fit them I had to properly alter the spring seats on the GAZ adjustables from 2 3/4" down to 2 1/2". So it was finally time to fix and recomission the lathe I inherited from my Gramp!

With the new adjustable drive belt fitted, the spring seats were turned down to 2 1/2"
(must remember to give the lathe a damn good cleaning and oiling session at some point!)



Those seats were then refitted and based on rough calculations the initial height was were set to 1" above bottom and then everything was fitted back on to the car.

And the change to the front end was absolutely spot on!!


They are central in the wheel arches and the clearance is uniform all round!

The back end on the other hand.....

has already been lowered with a 1" lowering block and Swing Spring and atm does seem to be still sitting a bit high, but I'm hoping that by the time all of the interior is fitted and I've got some fuel in the tank it should sit better.
Otherwise I'm going to have to add another lowering block..

Last edited by davecymru; 10th November 2014 at 10:10..
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  #143  
Old 9th November 2014, 18:49
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Nice work Dave, the front end looks great but the rear does look a little high that's is the gap between the tyre and arch. If you already have fitted a 1 inch block then could it be the shell that's incorrect may be it needs a little cut and shut or was that how mike intended the gap to be.

I do think the lathe needs a little lubrication.
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  #144  
Old 10th November 2014, 15:42
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Dave - Nice job on the front end.

At this stage, I also have no idea where the back end of may car is going to end up.

I do know my body shell weighs significantly more than standard given my cutting & shutting, extra hump, boot lid, etc.

So I've put ride height in the "come back to later" pile.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #145  
Old 14th November 2014, 12:17
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I managed to find a front end pic now that it's lowered, and it seems that i need to have a bit of a fettle at the weekend with the spring seat heights as atm it's a little bit lower on the left side.

Or i took the pic at an angle.... either way, i'll measure things before i change anything



This also shows how i'm fitting my lights and indicators and the nearly-final hole for the grill that i'll be fabricating as soon as the interior is done.


With the nights now thoroughly drawn-in I've only had a few 1hr evening sessions on the car this week, but I've started sanding down the body seams and the drivers side interior is now paneled!





I will be putting a trim strip over the lip of the door opening, hence the slight wobbly edges in places as they will be hidden.

Then last night a dig around in the attic turned up all of my left-over Sammio materials (black fabric, back ribbed matting, rubber seals etc..) so I'll be going through those this weekend to see if I've got enough to reuse on the Miglia, and to decide exactly what I'm going to use them for
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  #146  
Old 15th November 2014, 07:22
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Dave - I always like the transformation cutting out the headlight holes make.

But can I ask about your headlight adjustment holes?

It looks like your holes "face" each other, whereas mine are currently "matching".



I've never fitted headlights from scratch before, so do I need to adjust one side of mine?

Or is it simply a case of more than one way to skin a cat?

( Note no cats were harmed in the making of this post. )

Cheers, Paul.

PS
The panelling is coming on very nicely.
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  #147  
Old 16th November 2014, 17:29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Dave -
But can I ask about your headlight adjustment holes?

It looks like your holes "face" each other, whereas mine are currently "matching".



Cheers, Paul.

Your head light bowls are fitted the correct way or should I say standard way. Don't know what's going on with Dave's but it will be fun trying to stop the light units falling out every time he hits a bump
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  #148  
Old 16th November 2014, 17:51
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You can tell I've had a long weekend, I scan read your post Paul and I was actually looking at your car pic to see if I could see a cat! then I read it properly

As far as the headlights are concerned, as long as you can adjust them their full range of travel up/down and left/right, then I think we're fine? Although I'm open to being told by someone else that the adjustment holes have to be located xyz?

---

This weekend I wanted to finish cutting the bulk of the interior panels before it starts to get really cold and I have to work with the garage door shut. As it turns out SWMBO gave me a bit more 'garage time' than I was expecting and I end the weekend with the interior panelled all apart from a few small odds-n-sods!


Passenger side panelled first as I thought it was going to be the most awkward. It was!



Just got to mount clips for the wires, that I want to leave partially visible as I've seen that look in a few 50's era race cars.


Then it was trying to figure out how to close the gaps between the rear of the dropped floorpans and the rear bulkhead.

Tried one idea on the passengers side and it seemed to look the part and did the job nicely!


The eagle-eye'd amongst you will notice a few seam gaps yet to be filled, but shhh... don't tell anyone else and i'll sort them out before it's on the road


Then I did the drivers side
...
And did the curved strip joining the upright panels on the drivers side
...
And made up the top of the tunnel.



There are a few interior panel gaps that aren't quite 100% (we're not talking anything major!) and I was worrying about them, but a few of my neighbours popped in for a nosey and told me to stop being daft and that it looks totally "period"! and if I'm leaving it bare for a while then don't even bother to rub off the pencil marks as it all 'adds to the look' .

While I now agree about some of the gapping, I'm not sure about leaving all of the pencil marks yet

Happy happy happy


Last edited by davecymru; 16th November 2014 at 17:58..
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  #149  
Old 16th November 2014, 17:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micky1mo View Post
Your head light bowls are fitted the correct way or should I say standard way. Don't know what's going on with Dave's but it will be fun trying to stop the light units falling out every time he hits a bump
Those 'larger' holes are just the ones that the back of the adjustment screw sit into, there are a number of smaller holes that actually secure the headlight buckets.
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  #150  
Old 16th November 2014, 19:23
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I looked at the pics and went onto another thread.... Then I came back to it as I thought it was a bit bad not say that it's looking really good. Everyone likes a pat on the back... So are you jus having mats? Don't wan to hide all of that work,and what are the cables that you are leaving on show?
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  #151  
Old 20th November 2014, 19:31
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Last major interior panelling job - finish off the rear of the cockpit and join it to the body shell lip to provide strength/support.

It's worth pointing out that the rear inner lip of my cockpit was a bit.... wonky! But I know that with the shell mounted any cut-n-shut would be a nightmare! (Ref my and Pauls experiences of fibre-glassing upside down! not together I hasten to add!!!) So I decided to work with it and then in the future add something to cover any nasty looking bits.

First I removed the existing rivets that held the top of the rear panels to the frame and added some L-section on top. Then riveted it all back in place.



Then I added another strip of L section alloy on top of that and inside the lip to join that to the shell.
Note the "join" where there are no rivets where I had to split the long single length in order to work around the wonkiness!



This has resulted in a very strong and stable rear lip, tested with a bit of jumping up and down. So I'm happy that's not going anywhere!
Also note the 6 riv-nuts I fitted as I want a removable centre panel "just in case"

And with the initial rough-cut panel held in place with button headed, Allen bolts it looks just how I wanted it!



Just some cleaning and tidying to do. And I'm also not sure if I'm going to put filler over the join of the shell and strengthening yet.... I'm still pondering that one
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  #152  
Old 20th November 2014, 20:24
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Dave - Nice work on the panelling.

I've come to the conclusion that "wonky" represents the 50s racing equivalent of "straight".

Good luck, Paul.
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  #153  
Old 21st November 2014, 07:52
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Brown Paper envelope has turned up
.
.
.
.
.
Seems to have DVLA on it
.
.
.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
And
...
I am no longer the owner of a Triumph Vitesse, what is in my garage is now a Triumph Miglia!!



I'll update the registration thread in a mo. But just in case anyone is interested, the process i followed was to do EXACTLY what the DVLA asked for, no more, no less (well... an ikkle bit more, but i'll explain below ).

So the initial application contained 3 things:

- V627/1 Built up vehicle report - content as pilfered from the Ribble version and reworded slightly to suit Miglia stating that it was a body conversion and that all that i wanted was to change the name on the V5 from Triumph Vitesse to Triumph Miglia.
- V5C - I noted on here that the colour was changing from Green to Red, and that the body type was changing from Saloon to Sports
- Miglia Receipt

That was sent off.

Waited 3 weeks.

Got a letter from DVLA asking me to provide a photo of the car - BUT - this was in relation to changing the "body Type" part of the V5.

So i sent off a printed photo of the car in the garage, but as the number plate wasn't showing (this wasn't requested, but i know others have been asked) i also included printed photos of the VIN Plate and Engine number, and i stated that i had included those as when i did my Sammio those were inspected.

Waited 2 1/2 weeks.

New V5 arrived stating:
Triumph Miglia
Sports
Red


Last edited by davecymru; 21st November 2014 at 07:55..
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  #154  
Old 21st November 2014, 11:17
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Fantastic to hear, dave, top work
Best,
Tim
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  #155  
Old 21st November 2014, 12:59
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Neat panel work Dave it looks the part, are you looking at painting the ally or leaving as is?
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  #156  
Old 21st November 2014, 15:42
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Dave - Many congratulations on the V5C.

There is clearly a lot to be said for keeping it simple.

Quite by chance, my V5C also arrived today, but I've had to send it back.

So can I just check how your original and revised V5C was laid out?

Has it gone from:
Make - Triumph
Model - Vitesse

To:
Make - Triumph
Model - Miglia

Or is "Triumph Miglia" now the Make with the Model line left blank?

As my original V5C has Spitfire 1500 as the Model and that is all I wanted them to change.

It is a shame I didn't see this earlier, as I have already sent a note to the DVLA.

Mind you, if the new name has to fit in the Make space, then I need to shorten mine anyway.

Cheers, Paul.

Last edited by Paul L; 21st November 2014 at 20:33.. Reason: Typo
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  #157  
Old 24th November 2014, 09:58
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As far as the interior is concerned I'm in two minds about painting the aluminum, as even though it will be bare for-now, eventually i am likely to cover it at some point in the future. So i may keep it bare to avoid any paint scratching/flaking in the future?


My V5 now says: Triumph Miglia on the Make line.
Previously under the old VOSA system with my last build i had, had my V5 changed to
Make: Sammio
Model:Spyder

But given the latest DVLA guidance and the sort of things that I've been reading recently about what Swansea is saying, i.e.
"that wasn't a Triumph model so we can't change it to that"

Having the Make as "Triumph Miglia" actually makes sense, describes the car and i'm fine with that.

Although after doing some pondering about this, i wonder if having this change in place now opens up the model field on their system? as i can't imagine that there are any pre-set models under the "Triumph Miglia" Make? (just a thought)

Although there is always the chance that they may still insist you stick with one of the Triumph ones?
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  #158  
Old 24th November 2014, 14:26
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Dave - Thanks for the feedback, as that makes a lot of sense.

Shame the DVLA didn't mention this, as my new name has exceeded the V5C "Make" character limit.

Cheers, Paul.
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  #159  
Old 27th November 2014, 08:20
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Well here we go again, it's time for...

Filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding.......



And while this time I'm not going to have the bonnet problems i had with my Sammio i do get to experience the fun of hanging and gapping doors for the first time!

Hopefully i should break the back of this over the weekend (famous last words?), although before i go too far i do need to do some measurements on chassis height because if with the existing setup the chassis is currently level, then I'm going to cut and lower the rear arches to address the gap. But if the chassis is currently higher at the back then I'm going to get an extra lowering block to bring the back end down and leave the body alone.

funfunfun
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  #160  
Old 27th November 2014, 10:17
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Fast work to get to the filling and sanding stage in six months as a hobbyist, Dave, well done!

Only Patoune gets things done quicker and he's a pro with a fully equipped workshop and a team of spannermen at his command.

The solid donor looks to have helped enormously though, I was still welding my chassis after six months.

As for the ride height front and rear, I'd make sure the suspension is fully settled before modifying the bodywork. After all, your Spyder looks like it lowered itself an inch or more at the back once you started driving it -

Towards end of build:


Waving it away with a tear in your eye as I recall


You might want to consider removing a leaf or two from the rear spring too. I know you've gone with Spitfire swing spring at the back again, but did you ever manage to sort out the handling on your Spyder?

(Quote from your build thread, Feb 2012) -

1. Its DAMN quick! Or at least it seems like it when your @rse is only a few inches from the road

2. Its bleedin skittish! I'm going to have to take some time to get used it it or i'm going through a hedge, backwards


I know 'uprated' springs are fashionable amongst the track-day bores, but mine was very skittish until I softened the suspension front and rear, now it sticks to the road like glue and doesn't knock your fillings out when you run ants over.

Anyway, looking forward to seeing this one finished so crack on!
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