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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #21  
Old 22nd April 2018, 07:28
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Here you go, found a spitfire engine for you.


https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/17257/lot/121A/

Might need the stronger dif and a small bonnet bulge.
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  #22  
Old 24th April 2018, 13:31
softfeet softfeet is offline
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The chassis look really tidy.

What is the anti-corrosion paint that they use on North Sea oil rig legs that you used?

Something like Corroless?


Thanks
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  #23  
Old 24th April 2018, 16:10
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Yep, Corroless it is. No idea if it's going to be any good long-term, but it went on nicely.

I now have a complete 1300 small-crank engine in my garage. It was expensive at 295, but it's the most responsive four-pot motor to tune (they can happily rev to 9000rpm in race tune) and was running immediately before removal from a (Herald) donor. I've stripped it down and it looks like it just needs a decoke and a lick of paint for the time being before going into the chassis. It'll probably get some power parts once the car's been on the road for a while.

I also bought a 3 synchro gearbox for a pound and a 1500 block complete with a set of unused pistons and lots of other parts for 99p. Bargain.

Before anyone points it out, the Herald 13/60 engine doesn't have the high compression cylinder head or high lift cam that the MkIII Spitfire got, but it's the same block/pistons/crank/etc. When I do get a polished and ported cylinder head for it I'll be able to fit its original 8.5:1 head onto the 1500 block, which will give it a 9.6:1 compression ratio and create a much lazier but torquey motor for another project.

Progress is likely to be a little slow over the next six weeks or so as I have a number of family commitments coming up.

More later.
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  #24  
Old 28th April 2018, 17:58
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Task for today: drop Herald engine and gearbox into the Spitfire chassis then see if the bonnet is going to fit without fouling.

First stage, engine and box roughly fitted (just bought a gearbox bracket on ebay so it's just supported by a bit of wood at the mo) -





Then separate the front and rear clamshells and drop the front one over the front of the chassis and support it so that the bottom of the sills is level with the bottom of the chassis -



And from a few more angles -











Doesn't look too promising that last shot...

...but the wheels and gear lever look like they'll be in the right places -





And now for the moment of truth, will the bonnet fit over the engine?

Drum roll...



Success!







The bonnet needs a little fettling to fit, but that's just because the bonnet doesn't quite fit the opening anyway.

The pic's were taken with the carburettors removed though as the front dash pot does just foul the underside of the bonnet, causing the right-hand edge to lift about an inch -



I do have a cunning plan to address that though.

To say I'm happy it's going to fit is something of an understatement, I'm absolutely delighted!

More later.

Last edited by Mister Towed; 28th April 2018 at 18:03..
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  #25  
Old 28th April 2018, 18:18
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If you could move the engine back a couple of inches you could probably lower it an inch or so as well.
So annoying when it is so close.
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  #26  
Old 28th April 2018, 18:56
molleur molleur is offline
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Just put a blister on the interference with the dash pot.
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  #27  
Old 28th April 2018, 19:06
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Should be able to get away without needing to move the engine back and also won't be needing a blister or scoop.

Much as I like blisters and scoops, either would look a bit odd on the front of what's supposed to be a rear engined car, and although I'm going for the custom Outlaw racer look, I want the body to look like a modified original as far as possible.

So, one of the most common items added to Outlaw 356's is a through bonnet fuel filler to replace the under bonnet one on standard 356's, so I'll be putting a flip-top filler right over the front carburettor to hide the protruding dashpot.

Job done.
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  #28  
Old 28th April 2018, 19:16
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I think a blister would save a lot of angst. And Mr Towed has history in this dept.
Oops you posted in the meantime, good solution though.
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  #29  
Old 28th April 2018, 20:18
molleur molleur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Towed View Post
Should be able to get away without needing to move the engine back and also won't be needing a blister or scoop.

Much as I like blisters and scoops, either would look a bit odd on the front of what's supposed to be a rear engined car, and although I'm going for the custom Outlaw racer look, I want the body to look like a modified original as far as possible.

So, one of the most common items added to Outlaw 356's is a through bonnet fuel filler to replace the under bonnet one on standard 356's, so I'll be putting a flip-top filler right over the front carburettor to hide the protruding dashpot.

Job done.
Best idea!
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  #30  
Old 29th April 2018, 09:57
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How about

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-S...8AAOSw2QJa2LKP


Very flat so should give you plenty of clearance. I have a Triumph Trophy 1200 which uses the same 4 carbs, if they run a 1200 bike engine they should with a little adjustment suit the Herald engine. Mine has K&N pod air filters which does look very nice.

I like the idea of the fuel cap but in my mind it would need to be central for it to work. I do like the smooth flowing lines of the bonnet as it is.

Or Weber carb, bit pricey but I'm sure you could source a second hand one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-MIDGET...QAAOSwrx5UVm5A

Last edited by Jaguartvr; 29th April 2018 at 10:10..
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  #31  
Old 29th April 2018, 14:45
DaveP DaveP is offline
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Looking good so far

I even like the yellow as it is

Dave
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  #32  
Old 29th April 2018, 15:09
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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Can you turn the inlet manifold upside-down? to lose the height
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  #33  
Old 29th April 2018, 15:27
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Mr T - Good to see part of the body shell on, even if it is just a mock up.

Whilst the fuel cap does appear to be in the centre in these 'Outlaws'...






I am pretty sure wherever you needed it to be fitted would be fine.

It is certainly a clever way of creating a bit of room.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #34  
Old 29th April 2018, 16:43
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Interesting ideas, I had already looked at those bike carbs but decided against them as Phil J found that they have to be angled upwards to work so you lose the apparent height advantage.

The Weber will also stick out so far width-ways that it'd foul the inside of the bonnet as it slopes down towards the wing.

I'm pretty sure I can get the SU's under the bonnet one way or another so I'll be sticking with them.

Paul, you're right, I couldn't find an Outlaw 356 with an offset fuel filler when I looked through Google images. Mind you, I couldn't find a Lancia D24 Spyder in silver either...

Task for today was to offer the rear clamshell up to the chassis and work out how much the body needs shortening.

Not sure if I've mentioned it in this thread yet, but although there's only 8mm difference between the wheelbase of the Spitfire (2108mm) and Porsche 356 (2100mm), I managed to buy what is probably a Banham New Speedster body intended to fit on a Rover Metro/100, which is 2270mm.

So, rear clamshell supported over the back end of the chassis at the right height -



Plenty of space in here for a fuel tank and spare wheel -



And with the front clamshell lined up with the front wheels where I want them, you can see the problem -



Oddly it seems that I only needed to shave 110mm out of the body to get the wheels neatly in the arches. I decided that the easiest way to shorten the body would be to take the difference out of the door apertures. I also now believe that's where Paul Banham added the length anyway -



Leaving me with a body that's the right length now -



That's as far as I got today but slow progress is better than no progress at all.

Last edited by Mister Towed; 29th April 2018 at 16:49..
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  #35  
Old 29th April 2018, 17:25
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That is looking great Towed. Good to see you back. Nice project which I am sure you will enjoy building and driving.
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  #36  
Old 1st May 2018, 07:53
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LOOKING VERY POSITIVE SO FAR ...Like the fuel cap idea ...my kind of solution !

I actually prefer the triumph engine solution being a bit of a traditionalist ...makes the whole 8 points thing a bit more obvious too ...

Banham 356 and 550 were definitely stretched doors , I have had both over the years ...
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  #37  
Old 1st May 2018, 18:43
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Cheers Gary, yes I'm feeling a lot happier about using the old Triumph lump for a number of reasons, the DVLA registration thing being one of them.

To get around 90 reliable hp out of it is going to blow about a 1500 hole in my budget that I hadn't really bargained on, but hey, you only live once.

I did a lot of surreptitious door measuring of real 356's and Chesil (et al) kit versions at various shows and I didn't find two the same, but they all looked much shorter than what I have, hence the decision to take a hacksaw to them.

Banham kit quality seems to get a lot of stick on the 'net, but mine seems pretty well moulded given the price. Will be getting on with it now the sun's (almost) out and I'm coming out of hibernation.
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  #38  
Old 9th June 2018, 13:44
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So, big box of parts arrived from Canley's yesterday so I'll be stripping down my Herald gearbox (ebay, 99p) and starting to rebuild it tomorrow. Should be interesting as I've never rebuilt a gearbox before.

If by some miracle I manage to rebuild the gearbox in a couple of hours I'll also refit the camshaft which has been reground by Piper cams to their 270 fast-road profile.

Timing the cam will have to wait until Canley's supply me with a rebuilt, unleaded cylinder head, which is currently on back-order (I believe they strip and build them to order).

Then with the rest of the day (!!) I might just get on with my work-in-progress rear deck cover -





Which, believe it or not isn't polished mahogany, but cardboard covered in parcel tape!

I also have a few little jobs to sort on a new acquisition for the summer -



...which was a bit too bouncy for my liking on the way home from collecting it, so new shocks are on order and it will also get fresh oil etc. It also has brake and clutch fluid the colour of West Country Scrumpy, so I will be bleeding the hydraulics and pumping fresh Dot 4 through everything before using it on the road again.

More later.
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  #39  
Old 10th June 2018, 16:55
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Nice toys.

Obviously I am a big fan of the power blue colour.

Let me know when you have this back on the road and I'll try to finally arrange my much promised trip to Norfolk.

Good luck, Paul.
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  #40  
Old 16th June 2018, 06:10
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Mr T - I'm sure you've seen this week's episode, but just in case...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjVrZiW_Pvs

Good luck, Paul.
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