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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #361  
Old 2nd February 2019, 19:14
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peterux peterux is offline
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Peter - Your build always looks very professional.

Hope all goes well with the engine start.

Good luck, Paul.
Thanks, Paul.
Unfortunately, progress this week has slowed to a halt due to the sub-zero temperatures.
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  #362  
Old 10th February 2019, 15:25
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Default A little progress and a motivational mock-up....

This week I've made a bit more progress on installing the engine loom.

First, I finished wiring up the ETB Temperature and Oil Pressure senders.

Temp and oil pressure senders by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The BMW dashboard temperature sender uses two wires but the ETB sensor only uses one (and earth). I have re-purposed the spare wire for the oil pressure sender so I didn't need run an extra cable.

I then mounted the two engine loom relays up behind the dashboard, again really determined by the length of the cables as I didn't want to cut and rejoin when not necessary. I'll need to check i can get to them when the dashboard is installed.

Main and Fuel pump relays by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then had to find spaces for the heater control valve and a megalink fuse so I had to temporarily install a number of parts to check for clearance and space.
I call this a 'motivational mock-up' as you can suddenly see it all coming together

Motivational mock-up by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The battery shown here is old one from my wife's car but is just a tad too long, so I'll have to get a shorter one. I've rotated the the BMW MAF elbow through 180 degrees. Then added a 180 degree silicone hose to the Compbrake air filter.

MAF and Air filter by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then got on with installing the heater control valve and the Megalink.

Heater control valve by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I had planned to use a Ford Fiesta heater control valve until I read on-line how unreliable they are (which explains why there are hundreds of replacements on ebay). So I've chosen an Audi/VW water control valve. This one is from a 2018 Audi A8. I've also mounted a battery ground point.

I've just ordered up some hose adaptors and heater hose to connect all this up and then I can start re-installing the inlet manifold, etc.

....peter
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  #363  
Old 13th February 2019, 19:50
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Automotive artwork very clean.
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  #364  
Old 27th February 2019, 19:26
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Default A potpourri of fiddly small jobs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Automotive artwork very clean.
Thanks, Patrick.


------------------------------------------------------------
Over the last two weeks I've tackled a rather random bunch of tasks some of which have taken a frustrating long time to get right but that's how it goes some times.

So in not necessarily the order I did them....

Accelerator cable.

The BMW accelerator cable didn't suit the Ford pedal so I cut the hook off.

BMW Accelerator Cable by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

To terminate the end of the cable I used this little clamp. It is very secure but I put a blob of epoxy glue on it before tightening it as it is so difficult to get to and I didn't want it falling off.

Accelerator Cable end by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I could then install the Accelerator pedal.
Another Houdini act!!

Accelerator pedal by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Steering column.

I've reinstalled the steering column and a Ford steering wheel that is IVA compliant.

Steering wheel and column by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

After years of searching I found a new lower coupling on ebay.

Steering lower coupling by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I couldn't figure out why but, the mounting holes in the intermediate shaft needed to be re-drilled to get the alignment between the steering wheel and the steering rack correct.(I spent half a day trying figure out why and then decided to drill the new holes and move on )

Steering intermediate shaft by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Windscreen wipers.

I've mounted the wiper wheelboxes but the wiper motor drive tubes that came installed in the car were made of copper which is not recommended as the copper wears and can be noisy. I've ordered some new steel ones from SVC.

Wiper wheel boxes by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

It's nice to install the first small bits of chrome bling.

Wiper wheel boxes by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Main wiring loom.

I've laid in the Sabre main wiring loom. The crimps in the white connector from the ignition switch, in the center of this picture, were very poor and I had to remake them.

Main wiring loom by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Fuse box in the center of this picture. (BTW that's a polythene bag over the bodywork!!)

Main wiring loom by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Loads more to do but all these small steps gets me nearer the end goal.

....peter
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  #365  
Old 11th April 2019, 19:04
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Default Mini update.....

It's been a while since my last update and to be honest I haven't made a great deal of progress due to other priorities.

The wiper motor drive and 'bundy' tubes have been fitted. The original copper tubes have been replaced with steel tubes from SVC who cut and flare them to your specific requirements. It's a messy job as you have to coat the drive shaft with lashings of grease as you assemble it into the tubes and through the wheelboxes.

Wiper wheelboxes by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The wiper motor has been cleaned up, re-greased inside and installed. It came fitted with a 110 degree cam wheel but The Royale owners club suggest you should use a 100 degree wheel. I'll wait and see what the sweep is like before investing in a new wheel. It's difficult to test until the windscreen is back in and the wiring is completed.

Wiper motor installed by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Unfortunately, the brand new heater resistor pack that I bought was not compatible with the Sabre's loom and heater switch. Luckily I found this used one on ebay from an early Sierra in excellent condition.

Heater motor connections by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Back to progress on installing the loom, I've mounted the relays behind the dashboard instruments. I measured to check there is sufficient clearance behind the instruments wiring. The original loom came with relay sockets for indicator flasher, intermittent wipers, main beam and dipped beam relays and I have added two more for the radiator cooling fan and a pair of driving lights. Easy to get to should they ever need changing by just popping out the dashboard.

Relays by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Well that's all for now and next update will be in about 3 weeks time.........

.........peter
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  #366  
Old 15th April 2019, 08:59
Amir Manzoori Amir Manzoori is offline
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Default Relays

As usual, well done, I admire and love what I see you doing. Have a suggestion with regards to the relays fitted to bulkhead above steering column, fitting them facing down, if possible, would mean you don't have to take the whole dashboard with speedo cluster off to reach them, as it would be very tight to reach if faced up.
Keep up the good work.
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  #367  
Old 17th April 2019, 16:29
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Interesting idea, I'll have a look to see if that is possible.
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  #368  
Old 12th May 2019, 21:18
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Default Project overrun....

In my last update back in April, I said my next update would be in about 3 weeks so 4 weeks later here I am. My kitchen project has overrun by a week not helped by a loose bath tap that needed to be replaced. But the good news is I should finish off the kitchen tomorrow and I replaced the taps yesterday.

I did find the time to look at Amir's idea of mounting the relays upside-down to ease replacement but even if they were rotated they are still nearly impossible to reach without removing the dashboard which will be a relatively easy operation.

I was also looking at one of my photo's I took last month.
After fitting the wiper wheel-boxes I took this photo.

Incorrect chromed wiper ferrule by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

On inspection, I could see that something was amiss. It turns out that there are two different types of chrome ferrules with slightly different mounting angles.
Now here it is fitted with the correct ferrule. Much better but I think I might add a spacer to lower the spindle.

Correct chromed wiper ferrule by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


I also managed to find the time to fit the BMW engine diagnostic socket which I've mounted inside the glovebox. I've also added a 12 volt socket and a USB 'phone charging point. The hole beneath is so that leads can enter from behind the dashboard without leaving the glovebox door open. Just need to find a nice grommet.

Glove Box by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Well that's all for now but hopefully more next week.....

....peter
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  #369  
Old 13th May 2019, 11:47
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Here's a nice gromit for you

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  #370  
Old 13th May 2019, 16:00
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Here's a nice gromit for you

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  #371  
Old 13th May 2019, 17:50
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Neat
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  #372  
Old 25th May 2019, 20:29
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Default More wiring.........

I've spent a couple of days this week on the wiring. My main focus has been connecting the BMW engine loom to the Sabre's loom.
But connecting wires is not very photogenic!!

Engine Loom integration by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This is the point where I have connected the BMW engine loom to the Sabre's standard loom. When I built my Marlin Sportster I kept what BMW refer to as the X20 connector but in the case of the Sabre I decided it was not really needed. My ECU has been modified so that the BMW EWS is not required. Hopefully, I've connected all the required circuits.

Engine loom - unused wires by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

These are the left over X20 connections that are not needed. I'll cut them short and terminate them when I'm sure I don't need any of them.

My next task is the brain teaser of connecting the Sierra steering column stalk switches.

....peter
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  #373  
Old 1st June 2019, 08:57
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Default Misc updates - part 1

So with the spring DIY jobs completed and the garden vegetables all planted I managed to find some decent time on the Sabre this week.
A somewhat random list of jobs completed...

First up I tackled the steering column stalk switches.
Wipers, Indicators, Hazard and Light switch adapter cables were labelled and re-terminated. I wasn't happy with the quality of the OB's crimps and I wasn't sure all the connections were correct so I cut them off and started again. If there are any problems I'm hoping it will be easier to troubleshoot with all the cables labelled with function and loom colour.

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then installed the switches....

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Moving on I then cut a hole for the BMW coil pack cable...

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Taking a break from wiring and now the steering column is fitted I thought I would have a go at an initial setting up the steering alignment. I wanted to do this before any body panels are fitted. With my axle stands used up supporting the car using the axle stands and string was not an option.
So, here's my 'Heath Robinson' way. I strapped two 8 foot lengths of timber to the wheels with bungees. I then set the steering wheel to straight ahead and then aligned by eye the offside timber with the rear wheel. It was surprisingly easy to see very small changes looking down an 8 foot length. I then adjusted the nearside tie rod until the two lengths of timer was parallel. I also checked both timbers were parallel with the chassis rails. It may not be perfect but it will certainly be good enough until I can drive the car to have it set up professionally.

Steering alignment by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then checked the camber readings...

Camber - offside by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Camber - nearside by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Nearside camber reads half a degree negative. An internet search suggests the Sierra spec is 5 minutes positive to 55 minutes negative. So, half a degree appears to be spot on. Offside camber reads 0 degrees. So, within spec but about half a degree different to the nearside. The camber on the Sabre is not adjustable and I can't see any obvious reason for the difference. Maybe manufacturing tolerances of the chassis and upper wishbones?


I then installed the PAS reservoir and hoses......

PAS reservoir by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

.....and I started to connect up the heater hoses.

Heater plumbing by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

.....end of Part 1, part 2 to follow later........ (off to the St Albans' steam fair today)
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  #374  
Old 2nd June 2019, 07:30
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Default Misc updates - part 2

Ok, so here is part 2 of this weeks update.....
So moving back to the wiring I fitted the battery and ground leads...

Ground strap to the engine block and the batt+ supply to the starter motor.

Battery leads by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

...and the battery leads....

Battery leads by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

and with the cover just resting in place to check clearance, etc

Battery by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Then some more bits arrived for the heater circuit....

Heater flow by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And finally, I fitted the exhaust flap vacuum reservoir. This was another ebay purchase as my original had a broken mounting bracket.

Exhaust flap vacuum reservoir. by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Well that's all for this week.....

........peter
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  #375  
Old 9th June 2019, 19:27
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Default Misc updates - part 3

Well another week of a miscellany of tasks completed.....

I started with having a go at cleaning out the crankcase breather oil separator but after cleaning it out I found the membrane was perished and split. A new one was ordered.

Crankcase oil separator by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then fitted the ground connection between the engine and the chassis. This is the main chassis ground point.

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then started to re-assemble the inlet manifold that had been stripped, cleaned and parts repainted. I refitted the idle control valve and the new crankcase breather oil separator with new seals. The fuel tank breather connection has been plugged as I'm not using it. (centre of the picture). The vacuum hose to the fuel rail pressure regulator is split and perished so will have to be replaced.

Inlet manifold by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

More parts had arrived in the post so I could complete the heater plumbing hoses.

Heater plumbing by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Then back to the wiring, I drilled a hole and fitted the car looms ground connection.

Wiring by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Moving on, I started thinking about refitting the camshaft cover. Since the engine has not run for many months I coated the cam lobes with a liberal layer of engine assembly paste to prevent any damage on the first start before the oil pressure is up.

Engine prep by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I had temporarily fitted the Inlet manifold to check clearances, etc. I had to modify the bracket under the front end of the manifold as it was just fouling a bit on the oil pressure sensor. A quick mod on the angle grinder and all was good.

Inlet manifold by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I've also refitted the dipstick with a new o-ring seal and then fitted the fuel supply hoses from the hard lines up to the fuel rail.

Fuel supply by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Good progress last week but there'll be a short pause now while I repair and repaint the grandkids playhouse


More updates in about two weeks time....

...peter
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  #376  
Old 10th June 2019, 19:39
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Excellent quality of work and good progress. However a word of caution. The engine to chassis earth has a weakness at the shoulders of the terminals that in time will fracture due to their small cross section compared with the strength of the cable. Better to use the flat braided type of earth strap. Peter.
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  #377  
Old 10th June 2019, 21:39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey V8 Pete View Post
Excellent quality of work and good progress. However a word of caution. The engine to chassis earth has a weakness at the shoulders of the terminals that in time will fracture due to their small cross section compared with the strength of the cable. Better to use the flat braided type of earth strap. Peter.
flat braided earth strap should be used, no question.
Don't set yourself up for a failure, please.
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  #378  
Old 11th June 2019, 18:44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey V8 Pete View Post
Excellent quality of work and good progress. However a word of caution. The engine to chassis earth has a weakness at the shoulders of the terminals that in time will fracture due to their small cross section compared with the strength of the cable. Better to use the flat braided type of earth strap. Peter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
flat braided earth strap should be used, no question.
Don't set yourself up for a failure, please.
Thanks to both of you for your feedback and concern. I do always try to build the best car that I can so keen to get this right.

I'm not sure I fully understand the failure mode you are concerned about but it did prompt me to look up the specification of the cables I have fitted.
They are made up from "Hi-Flex" battery cable that has a CSA of 25 square mm rated at 170 amps.
It is a multi-strand cable made up of 322 individual 0.30 strands covered in a very soft and flexible PVC sheath.
It results in an extremely flexible cable that is quite unlike the type of battery cables that you find on old cars.
But, I've not been able to find the strand size of a typical flat braided earth strap for comparison.
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  #379  
Old 11th June 2019, 22:48
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Its not the cable that concerns me but the potential for fatigue cracking across the neck of the terminal connector. It has a very small cross sectional area and the constant vibration due to road and engine will result in a very short life. Also the neck of the terminal won’t be more than 6 square mm and won’t carry 170 amps for sure! Hence my concern. Peter.
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  #380  
Old 12th June 2019, 08:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grey V8 Pete View Post
Its not the cable that concerns me but the potential for fatigue cracking across the neck of the terminal connector. It has a very small cross sectional area and the constant vibration due to road and engine will result in a very short life. Also the neck of the terminal won’t be more than 6 square mm and won’t carry 170 amps for sure! Hence my concern. Peter.
Okay, thanks for clarifying. The ring terminal size is the same as the BMW OEM cable in this location so I don't think this will be an issue.
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