Garyh's Sammio build - Page 26

Paul L · #**501** 23rd August 2014, 19:27

Gary - Good luck with the engine, hope you can get it all sorted out.

Cheers, Paul.

Mister Towed · #**502** 24th August 2014, 07:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyh

Hi T, its a Zetec S 1700 95,000 miles no leaks etc... would i need to get the wiring loom/ engine mounts???

Hi Gary, I'm no expert in engine swapping, it's just a kernel of an idea that's simmering away in my subconscious for an ultra lightweight Spyder with enough power to be exhilarating without being too scary to drive.

My plan will be to buy a running Puma and transfer the complete loom with all ecu's etc and the motor into the Spyder chassis/shell. I'd guess that engine mounts will need to be fabricated too. I don't know if all that's possible, but RWD motorsport can probably advise -

http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/zetec-s...llhousing.html

I'm sure Viatron can also shed some light on the details as he fits his 400hp 4 pot Ford into his Cordite.

I'll be following both threads with real interest.

Viatron · #**503** 24th August 2014, 07:58

Transferring the engine with loom can be done but is a tricky job as the anti theft system needs either disabling or also transferring. By sticking with the standard ECU and wiring you'll also limit yourself to any tuning improvements, just my opinion but if it was me I would investigate after market induction, possibly a bike carb setup? And a cheap ecu like the Nodiz I'm running my triumph on. Also don't underestimate how difficult engine mounting can be. One reason we ditched the Volvo T4 in the GTA was that it was very lacking in threaded bosses on the one side of the block which left very little to attach mounts to. Could be a little flyer though with that engine in and set up right. Good luck!

garyh · #**504** 26th August 2014, 20:49

T, have you seen this.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thre...c#.U_zybqMmUQo

Mister Towed · #**505** 27th August 2014, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by garyh

T, have you seen this.

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thre...c#.U_zybqMmUQo

Epic thread, just read through from start to finish-ish. I say that as in true 'special' builder tradition, an on-road target date of Christmas 2011 has now run on to summer(!) 2014 and the car still hasn't actually run.

I'll bookmark the thread and cross my fingers that the builder's perseverance doesn't wane.

And that motor does look good in its new home -

Paul L · #**506** 27th August 2014, 18:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

... Epic thread, just read through from start to finish-ish...

+1

Although I was gutted to find it wasn't finished by the time i got to the end.

Amazing fabrication work.

garyh · #**507** 29th August 2014, 09:00

Will ERW 25mm od x 1.5mm wall tubing bend ok on a plumbers bending tool or will it just crease?

Scottie22 · #**508** 29th August 2014, 09:36

If you use a "bending spring" inside it gary, it should be okay, but you'll have to try a bit first.
I did lots of this stuff while making my bumpers, and really, you've just got to try it first.

garyh · #**509** 1st September 2014, 10:17

Some of these for sale on ebay at the moment.

Triumph Rotoflex Cv Conversion Driveshafts
191301056010

garyh · #**510** 2nd September 2014, 08:04

I thought the interesting bit, was the fact is they had fitted an MX5 engine... look at the numbers.

Scottie22 · #**511** 2nd September 2014, 08:19

Bloody hell Gary! The price is the most impressive at over £95,000!!

Mister Towed · #**512** 2nd September 2014, 16:00

...or you could have an Eagle E Type Speedster for only another £400k

Scottie22 · #**513** 2nd September 2014, 17:43

Or chuck in another five and a half million, and buy Steve McQueen's XKSS..............If it ever comes on to the market!

garyh · #**514** 3rd September 2014, 08:01

Question.
When do you use 0.6 mig wire or 0.8?

Scottie22 · #**515** 3rd September 2014, 08:16

If you are using 0.8 and run out, you can use 0.6, but to get the same amount of metal to melt, you'd have to turn the wire feed rate up a bit , does that make sense?

Like if you were using 1mm you'd just need to turn the feed rate down.
You can also alter the current to suit as well.
Or at least you can on my machine.

garyh · #**516** 3rd September 2014, 08:26

Thanks scottie, so its dependent on thickness of metal, you're trying to weld?

Scottie22 · #**517** 3rd September 2014, 08:53

That's it Gary, you've got it.
You can use different wire sizes, feed rates and current settings to get it all right.
Best way is to set your welder up with whatever you intend to use and then experiment until the weld is right for what you are working on, that way you don't bugger up your build.

Paul L · #**518** 3rd September 2014, 08:58

Gary - This is a photocopy of my welder's guide which follows Scottie's advice.

Obviously it will vary depending on your welder.

But I hope that helps, Paul.

garyh · #**519** 13th September 2014, 15:08

Made some floor pans, just need to weld the corners and plug weld. After looking at some threads I need to take out some more leaves and bought a lowering block. Heres some pics of what i did.

garyh · #**520** 18th September 2014, 08:29

Lots more nuts and bolts, rear drums and welding consumables ordered. I have bought some different rear lights, remind me more of a Lancia.