Swifty's Navigator - Page 17

swifty · #**321** 14th January 2015, 06:33

Thanks for all the advice guys, it's been said before but this is what makes the forum one of the best, cheers.

I will probably use a combination of both what Paul and Scottie suggests, but will wait for the weather to warm up a little as there's a covering of snow and it's minus out there.

Until next time see you all soon.

swifty · #**322** 14th January 2015, 17:57

Have come up with a plan of attack for the bonnet edge re-design, today i come across some very thin 1mm flexi plywood which will do the job i think as it's is very flexible without snapping.

I plan to cut out a section of the bonnet from wing to wing and about 300mm's down the bonnet, attach the plywood coated in either brown tape or cling film to the top of the bulk head following the curves then lower the bonnet down onto the flexi ply and screw to the bonnet.
Once in place and happy that the curves have been followed build up the missing 300mm's of bonnet with fiber glass matt finishing off with fiber filler and then body filler.

It's sounds like this approach will work but will have to see how well the ply copes with flexing in two directions both across and down at the same time.

Hope to get this done this weekend all been well, so see you all soon.

swifty · #**323** 18th January 2015, 19:22

Went ahead with the idea of using the flexi plywood as a mold for the bonnet.

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The plywood shaped up pretty well, screwed it to the bulk head first then across on to the bonnet making sure it followed the bulk head as close as possible.

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Once i was happy with the shape i covered it in brown packing tape before adding five layers of fiber glass, i deliberately made the repair sheet bigger than required to trim to size later.

I forgot to take a picture of the glass mat in place so no pictures of that.

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Once the repair sheet had dried it was trimmed to shape and laid it to position then marked around before cutting the incorrect piece out. I put some large headed screws along the bulk head edge where the bonnet rest's against to act as a position aid for the final height to align the bonnet edge with the bulk head edge.

Section removed ready for the new piece to be fastened into place.

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Repair section in place ready to be glassed in on the underside. Made sure all aligned up then removed the bonnet to glass over the underside.

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Ground out the top surface join to back fill with fiber filler then running one layer of fiber glass matting over the join.

swifty · #**324** 18th January 2015, 19:31

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Join flashed over with fiber filler then once dry a layer of fiber glass applied for good measure. I will cover the whole surface in fiber filler then body filler to fill the small imperfections.

While the fiber glass was drying i turned my attention to the bonnet scoop, I've used a product very similar to oasis as it's easy to sand to shape.

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Final shape in place, the rear edge will blend in to a seamless join. The top surface curves back wards to follow the line of the bonnet.

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Covered in packing tape to prevent the fiber glass sticking to the mold.

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Three layers of fiber glass matting applied slightly over sized to trim to shape once dry

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Also covered the small carb dash pot bubble cover in glass matting to trim to size when dry.

Well that's it for today see you all soon.

froggyman · #**325** 18th January 2015, 20:46

An excellent solution to cure the bonnet edge alignment. You are certainly getting through the tasks at a rapid pace. Well done.

Mister Towed · #**326** 19th January 2015, 07:10

Nice work, I do like that scoop, very D24.

davecymru · #**327** 19th January 2015, 09:33

V.nice! I like that idea of making a whole repair 'section' on the flexi-ply and then trimming and fitting it, i wish I'd thought of that for the bulge on my Sammio as I ended up getting a bit heath Robinson

We live n learn

Paul L · #**328** 19th January 2015, 10:44

Swifty - I think my jaw may have dropped slightly when I saw that big hole at the back of your bonnet.

That is both a brave and great job you've done there.

By the time you have finished the scoop and bulge it will look great.

Good luck, Paul.

swifty · #**329** 20th January 2015, 22:23

This build could be heading down the D24 marque but will wait and see how it develops. Thanks for the comments guy's.

Been looking around for supplier of the windscreen trim, that's the part that attaches the screen to the bulk head i would prefer ally as the fiber glass trim supplied is poor to say the least, so does anybody now where this can be purchased from if all else fails I'll try my hand at making one from flat ally bar.

swifty · #**330** 21st January 2015, 19:05

Temperature outside is freezing so not a lot accomplished today.

Started by making a mounting bracket for the filter king i acquired from Mac, it is supplied with a mild steel bracket but thought a bespoke ally bracket would look good.

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Machined from a piece of 8mm ally plate.

Put the first layer of fiber filler over the scoop and the bonnet repair done at the weekend.

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Trimmed the scoop to suit the bonnet profile then covered in fiber filler which will be sanded back before glassing to the bonnet. I think i will cut the hole in the bonnet to match the scoop then fiber glass the join from the inside then blend the outside in with the bonnet profile.

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Finally covered the bonnet repair in fiber filler, this will be sanded then rebuild any low area's with more fiber filler and finally finish any small imperfections with body filler.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

Paul L · #**331** 22nd January 2015, 16:48

Swifty - Another great bracket.

I'm sure that by the time all the filler is sanding down, the bonnet will look like it was made that way.

Good luck, Paul.

Barry Stard · #**332** 23rd January 2015, 18:30

Cracking job u r making of your build swiftly, great progress

EL PRIMER · #**333** 24th January 2015, 07:47

Bonnet scoop and corrections looks very good mate .
A D24 styled car would be very cool.

swifty · #**334** 24th January 2015, 20:14

Cheers guys for the comments its appreciated.

Today i tried to finish the bonnet scoop off to move onto another area but i didn't manager to wrap it up as the temperature prevented the filler from drying quickly so it taken a little longer than expected.

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First off i cut a hole in the bonnet the same as the scoop then fixed in place before glassing over the join. Trimmed the underside edge level with the bonnet profile before glassing over.

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Scoop glassed over with two layers on the underside, once it had dried i back filled the bonnet surface to scoop join with fiber filler then sanded back.

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Covered the scoop with body filler and left to dry over night so hopefully tomorrow the bonnet scoop may be finished.

I've changed the carb dash pot cover from my original thought of a round dome to a tear drop shape which I'll make the mold for out of oasis as i did for the scoop, pre-cut the tear drop shape which I'll transfer onto cardboard to transfer onto the oasis.

Well that's it for today see you all soon.

Mister Towed · #**335** 25th January 2015, 17:41

Neat work, I like it.

swifty · #**336** 26th January 2015, 19:44

Cheers Towed, now's the time that when i finish something and it starts to resemble what i want that i feel i am getting some where with the build.

Filled and sanded the scoop and top half of the bonnet with body filler which is nearly there now so only a few slight tweaks and it will be sorted.

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Also copied what Paul has just done with the nose aperture blanked off with a piece of cardboard from the inside then filled in the gap to give a angled flat surface for the grill to sit against.

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A shot of both sides which have blended in quiet well, just a little more sanding to complete, most likely going to fit side leather straps to hold the bonnet down.

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I was going to fit locating pins to each edge of the bonnet but have now decide to build up a flat surface to the bonnet edge and fasten a piece of ally angle line to the top of the wheel arch for the built up flat surface to push against when the leather side straps are fastened.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

Paul L · #**337** 27th January 2015, 11:53

Swifty - Sorry if I gave you more work to do on the grille opening edge.

The scoop is looking good.

I'll be watching what you do along the bonnet / body shell join at the sides.

Because at some point i need to do the work to attach the bottom sections of the bonnet to sides of the body shell.

Good luck, Paul.

swifty · #**338** 28th January 2015, 17:53

Grabed a quick hour today to crack on with a few jobs.

Paul Your idea of filling the lip edge was a good one that's why i decided to copy, i had originally thought of adding an ally trim formed by hand around the lip but think the way it looks now may be good enough once sanded and covered in body filler.

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Tear drop cover fiber glassed over ready to trim and bond to the bonnet, used cling film as an anti stick agent on the mold i made. Once dry it was trimmed back and smoothed over ready to bond in place. The second image is of the mold made from oasis material.

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Tear drop glassed to the under side of the bonnet.

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Put a second layer of fiber filler along the bonnet edges which now looks to be a the correct depth so will sand to a flat surface when dry, may be put a layer of fiber glass over the filler once flat. My thoughts are this will add strength and a good surface for the bonnet to close against, hopefully.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

swifty · #**339** 29th January 2015, 18:28

Tear drop cover has eventually dried so gave it a covering in fiber filler.

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Once the filler has dried it's a quick sanding then body filler to smooth off the surface.

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Gave the bonnet built up edges a sanding until the surface was flat and parallel i may skim over with body filler.

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Cut the ally angle line that will be fastened to the top of the body wheel arch for the bonnet to clamp up against, the second image shows a strip of rubber i may use as a cushion for the bonnet lip to sit on to prevent future rubbing.

Today i have been working out how to make the boot lid stay, I'm thinking of using 6mm ally rod along with a couple of brackets made from 2mm ally sheet and a couple of pivot brackets machined from 10mm ally plate, once I've finished the boot stay ill post a few pictures hopefully in the next couple of days.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.

swifty · #**340** 30th January 2015, 19:28

Quick post today as i only finished the boot lid stay, made from ally parts.

Will post more photos once fitted to car.

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I've made it hinge in the center with a friction lock for the boot open position, the two pivot brackets will be bonded to the shell and boot lid once i work out the positioning.

Well that's it for now see you all soon.