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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > General Build Chat

General Build Chat Area for general build chat, questions, tips, tricks and progress

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  #21  
Old 29th March 2010, 22:02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Cussen View Post
Must be a lardy boy there Jason, my cabrio was only 840kg
Nah - it was all the rubber crap they made me put on it. It's kilo's lighter now. Plus when they weighed it, it was the tester in there!
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  #22  
Old 2nd April 2010, 09:03
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[QUOTE=spritely;18591]Couldn't get UNF locking nuts so decided to use large washers and tack weld them to mountings and tab them over when the old nuts are torqued up.[QUOTE=spritely;18591]


hmm... not sure what the IVA inspector will think of that? I guess it is permenant lock so should be OK just not sure?

By the way this looks like a really exciting creative build. I used to have a real Austin Healy sprite, so imagining a streched version with a V8 is mind blowing!

...peter
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  #23  
Old 2nd April 2010, 20:46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux View Post
hmm... not sure what the IVA inspector will think of that? I guess it is permenant lock so should be OK just not sure?

By the way this looks like a really exciting creative build. I used to have a real Austin Healy sprite, so imagining a streched version with a V8 is mind blowing!

...peter
The tab washer idea is better than locking nuts, but I will still have the old locking nuts on so when painted it will look like a belt and braces situation. Some Cars ,like an Ariel Atom that my friend had, have locking nuts and are also drilled and wired.

I was thinking today about the width and if I should cut the chassis or widen the body as the TVR chassis is wider than the Sprite body. If the body was widened it would look like an Austin Healey 3000 from the back which is how most people will be looking at it Any way, that's a while off yet so lets get on with it.

Today I slung a spare V8 over the chassis



Only to find that it dosen't fit



After removing the exhaust manifolds and snapping three of the sixteen retaining bolts off I found that the engine would just squeeze in between the chassis top rails, there being more room at the front than the back.
Problem is that the water pump pulley is in the way and it will not drop down low enough into the chassis at the front as there is a top cross member bracing the chassis where the top shock mounts are situated.
So I decided to remove the water pump and proceeded to snap three more bolts off. Not to worry, I'm not using this engine so not a problem for now.
Next the alternator came off and the wussey power steering pump, well at least it's getting lighter.
Looks like I will have to move the cross member up the chassis a bit or maybe stick a bent tube in so as the crossmember fixing points are the same but giving a couple of inches more forward clearance.
Any way, that's it for a couple of weeks I'm afraid, We're off on holiday for a week and then her indoors wants the living room decorating and a radiator moving and new wood flooring etc etc,



Last edited by spritely; 2nd April 2010 at 20:51..
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  #24  
Old 9th April 2010, 21:26
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Update..
Little or no progress untill I've addressed some problems. Managed to cut two crossmembers out of the chassis, one under the sump which will be relalced when the engine position is finalised and same with the top bracing cross member which braced the front shock mountings.
Good news is that my next door neighbour is a welder and he is going to fix the chassis up when we decide what to alter in order to get the V8 nice and snug in the engine bay.
The starter will have to be swapped as the solenoid is on the side and will foul one of the chassis uprights. I think I can get one with the solenoid on top.
The exhaust pipes are a problem but we can use tubular pipes and alter the top chassis rail if we need to (so the welder says with confidence).
Biggest problem and the one which will hold up everything else is the choice of gearbox. Without a gearbox the final engine position is not known so I need to be making a decision soon.
I've been told that Toyota Supra is a good choice but will I need an adapter plate and what will the cost be? Maybe I'll keep looking for a decent Rover SD1 box if I can get one cheap or a Ford type 9. Next week will be make your mind up time for the gearbox then we can get on with fitting it all in.

Wish me luck because this car will be a beast of a motor even if it dosen't scream round the track faster than every one else it will look and sound like a monster, especially if I can widen the body to compliment the extra 10inches in length.
Watch this space.....
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  #25  
Old 12th April 2010, 19:41
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Quick update as I'm all excited
Dry fitted the fuel tank today and it fits like a glove, didn't do anything else as I'm sposed to be decorating and couldn't stay long at the garage.
The cause of my excitement is that I managed to locate a late SD1 Vittess gearbox and all the bits to make it fit. yes I got one so we're up and running as soon as the lounge is decorated....can't wait
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  #26  
Old 19th April 2010, 09:21
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Gearbox not arrived yet but managed to get driveshaft gaiters and steering rack gaiters from TR-Bitz in Warrington. Nice new workshop pleasent staff , a chat and very reasonable prices, just how it should be.
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  #27  
Old 23rd May 2010, 19:04
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Well, I've got the gearbox at last, it's a low mileage SD1 Vitesse box complete with flywheel and clutch. All seems in good order so I should be able to start fitting it up in a couple of weeks time. I've measured the engine and box and the prop that I have and if it goes in as is then the engine will sit about a foot behind the front axle centre line. We'll see.
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