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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #301  
Old 20th January 2018, 18:53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
I like the 'torque wrench' nice work
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amir Manzoori View Post
Your improvisation is second to none. Good on you Peter.

Thanks, chaps. With hindsight (which is always a wonderful thing!) I could have made it more accurate by using a small ring spanner as I didn't take into account the weight of the adjustable but its done now.
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  #302  
Old 20th January 2018, 19:45
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Despite the cold weather, I've removed the body tub (again!!) which is now mounted on the trailer. I can now finish off the gearbox tunnel mods and prep the body tub before painting.

Gearbox tunnel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I need to keep the body tub dry in the garage as it's prep'ed for paint so the chassis will have to live outside for a while.

Chassis under tarp by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

( Note to self: a trip to the dump is overdue )

Gearbox tunnel mods need to be bonded on this side and finished.

Gearbox tunnel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

More next week....


...peter
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  #303  
Old 27th January 2018, 21:15
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Default Getting my body into shape....

This weeks report is a miscellany of updates but all with the same aim of getting the body tub in shape for the paint bodyshop.

Following on from last weeks update I've done some more work on the gearbox tunnel reshaping.
I reinforced the gearbox tunnel mods by first grinding back the gelcoat on the surrounding bodywork and then bonding on a layer of chopped strand mat followed by a layer of tissue. I then sanded back, smoothed out with a skim of P38 filler and then sanded smooth. It will be finished off by the bodyshop.

Gearbox tunnel mods by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The modified gearbox tunnel jointing angle doesn't quite fit flush to the body. My original idea was to fill this gap with a closed cell foam strip but I wasn't happy about the size of the gap. So I covered the angle in parcel tape and filled the gap with body filler. When I finally fit the gearbox tunnel it will only need a thin smear of mastic sealant.

Gearbox tunnel mods by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Another small job was to enlarge the heater hose hole to take this rubber grommet.

Heater Hose grommet by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And the bulkhead had this rather ugly hole where the OB had cut a hole for the loom connector.

Body mods by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I have tidied up the hole by cutting a circular hole with a hole saw. An off-cut of MDF was screwed to the bulkhead to support the hole saw's central drill bit. The mounting holes will be filled and I'll fit a suitable grommet after the tub is painted.

Body mods by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I then turned my attention to the windscreen surround sides which are supported by steel inserts. According to the Royale build manual these should be painted and then bonded to the GRP frame with body filler. On my car the filler has cracked and I wanted to see if the supports were still bonded securely.

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Close up of the cracks.

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

On the drivers side I had already removed the door hinge, so I cut out the filler with a plunge cutter multi-tool. The filler was really soft and came away easily. When I finished cutting out the filler, which only took about 5 minutes, the steel support fell out.
The bond between the steel and GRP had completely failed!!!!!!

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Here you can see the very little bonding used by the OB.

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And the bond between the 'A' post steel and the back of the hinge box had also failed.

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

This photo shows where the windscreen surround steel bonding has failed.

'A' Post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I'm thinking of using something like Tiger Seal to re-bond the 'A' post and windscreen surround but I'm open to expert advice


Hopefully more updates next week....

....peter
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  #304  
Old 28th January 2018, 16:28
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peterux Ė Hi Peter,

Iím certainly no expert, but based on the advice of others on here, I bought some bonding paste from Glasplies.



This works with a catalyst, in a similar way to fibreglass resin.

This was a test piece I did to stick metal to fibreglass and it was rock solid.



I used the bonding paste to join my bodyshell to the inner framework.

But I also used Tiger Seal to close any small gaps that were left.

Hope that helps, Paul.

PS
Not really sure why I havenít posted on your thread before?

As it is a very meticulous build with great attention to detail and problem solving.

Good luck.
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  #305  
Old 28th January 2018, 20:35
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Hi Paul,
many thanks for your feedback, but I had a 'free' day today and the weather was quite mild so I was keen to crack on whilst my motivation was high.

I found a couple of tubes of this stuff in my 'come-in-handy-one-day' box and a quick check on the manufacturers website confirmed it was suitable for bonding GRP to steel (amongst many other things). I can't remember why I bought it but its seemed to be suitable so I've used it on the first side.

Polyurethane Adhesive/filler by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The first side is setting over night so I'll see how strong it is tomorrow.....


....peter

P.S. I've watched your car building and I'm amazed at what you achieved on a slopping front drive. It's a great looking little car, well done!!
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  #306  
Old 29th January 2018, 13:22
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That stuff looks idea as it remains flexible once cured (according to the data I read). One of the main problems and causes for failure when bonding disimilar materials is their different expansion rates so a flexible addhesive has got to be a good bet.

Cheers, Robin
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  #307  
Old 29th January 2018, 20:33
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Originally Posted by MartinClan View Post
That stuff looks ideal as it remains flexible once cured (according to the data I read). One of the main problems and causes for failure when bonding dissimilar materials is their different expansion rates so a flexible adhesive has got to be a good bet.

Cheers, Robin
That was my theory and hope.

Looking closer at the steel parts I can see that the original parts were plated before they were painted black. (I don't know what kind of plating was used but it has a slight silver/yellowish tinge ). The paint scrapes off very easily. It appears that the body filler has adhered to the paint but the paint has come away from the plating.
So before refitting I abraded the steel surface with a flap disc in my angle grinder so that the PU sealant was in direct contact with roughened bare metal. I plan to paint any exposed metal after the PU has fully set.

I checked the first side this morning and the adhesive was a bit softer than I expected. I'm hoping it is still curing due to the low temperatures in my garage overnight so I'll leave it clamped for a few days.

Oh the fun of re-building an old kit!
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  #308  
Old 31st January 2018, 21:05
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Default Bonding......

Here are some more pictures of re-bonding the drivers side 'A' post steel support.....

This is the 'A' post steel support after painting. I have abraded the areas that will be bonded to the GRP bodywork.

'A' post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

'A' post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The windscreen support was clamped in place while the bonding is setting.

'A' post steel by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Drivers door hinge by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr


Passenger hinge by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The hinges and doors must have been in place when the OB had the body painted. The hinges were primed and painted but the primer had not adhered well to the plated metal. I was able to scrape off all the paint with a hand chisel.

Passenger hinge by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Paint removed and degreased. I've painted it with and acid etch primer with the hope that this will stick better.


It was too cold in the garage today to do any more bonding so I did some woodwork....

I've built an additional frame to support the rear of the body tub.

Body Support by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The body is now bolted down to the wooden frame on the trailer.

Body support by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I also added this support to take the trailer lightboard.

Trailer lightboard support by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Hopefully the weather will warm up a little next week so I can on with rebonding the passenger side post.


....peter
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  #309  
Old 7th February 2018, 20:05
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Default Cold winter work

The following update is not directly related to kitcar building but was a necessary step in my build plan......

The continued cold weather has stopped any more work on the body tub so I turned my attention to fitting a towbar.

To get the Sabre's body tub to the bodyshop I need a towbar fitted to my regular car.
I picked up a second hand towbar and electrics off ebay.
.
.
.

EDIT 19.02.2018
The towbar electrics are either faulty or not compatible with my BMW.
Either way I've decided to cut my losses and stop wasting anymore time on this activity.
As this is no longer part of my plan I've deleted the rest of this post.

Plan B to follow....


....peter

Last edited by peterux; Yesterday at 20:12.. Reason: Towbar fitting pictures removed as irrelevant
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