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  #1  
Old 22nd March 2010, 21:00
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Default TVR/Land Rover/Sprite Hybrid Taking Shape

Started the project at last, dragged the chassis in the garage, lifted the body off and then started to bolt bits on.
Not quite as quick as that might suggest but I've managed to locate the Jag diff in the chassis and bolt it to it's carrier, just need to get some new bolts to secure it propperly and then the rear suspension can go on.

Here it is as was in the road before I dragged it in, it's bolted to an old boat trailer for ease of shifting about, the body is in my avitar. I'll get some pics of the lot soon as and try and explain what I'm trying to do.

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  #2  
Old 23rd March 2010, 19:35
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Didn't get time to do anything today but took some pics to show what we are at..


Body slid forward so as I can work on diff and rear suspension


A look down the chassis into the engine bay


That's the diff in


Looking down on side of body/chassis - this is how much has to be cut off the width.


Some idea of what we have body wise

Last edited by spritely; 23rd March 2010 at 19:42..
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  #3  
Old 24th March 2010, 08:41
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Wow. I can see its a Sprite body, but which bits are/will be TVR and Landrover?
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  #4  
Old 24th March 2010, 09:23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Cussen View Post
Wow. I can see its a Sprite body, but which bits are/will be TVR and Landrover?
Good question....
TVR chassis and running gear - Land Rover engine, electrics, headlamps, and anything else that will fit - topped off with the Sprite plastic body and badges.
The body was left over from an abandoned 'Banham' project, the TVR also left over from an abandoned restoration project and the Land Rover will supply lots of bits and bobs to get the mongral up and running.
Hope to have it running by mid summer.
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  #5  
Old 24th March 2010, 09:26
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I'm guessing the chassis is TVR, and the engine will be a big 3.9L V8 Lump from a landie. Which is pretty much the same engine that they put in TVRs!

[Edit] - looks as if I was right!
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  #6  
Old 24th March 2010, 10:24
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Yes, right you are.
The engine is a 3.5 on carbs which I think is better, there was a rusty Essex V6 in the chassis so I'm hoping that the V8 will fit and that I can find a suitable gearbox cheap as I'm on a tight budget.
Only decided to do this as I have most of the bits and rather than put it all on fleabay I looked at it and thought....I can build this and have a lovely car for not a lot of money.
Only real problem being that the chassis is about a foot longer wheelbase and I'm not sure what it will look like stretched.
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  #7  
Old 24th March 2010, 22:43
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Weighed the body today and it's about 38 kilos. That's me stood on the scales holding the bonnet and then deducting my weight, same for main body. Suppose I will have to weigh the doors as well but they are pretty light so with dash and clocks and fixing brackets I should get away with 60 kilos.

That's all I did today as waiting for new bolts for suspension as the metric ones I have wont fit. The originals were AF so going out tomorrow to get some propper british bolts, if not I could locktight the old ones on.
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  #8  
Old 25th March 2010, 19:18
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Old suspension bolts are UNF and I am having trouble getting new nuts.Got suspension out from under rubbish today



Try again tomorrow
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  #9  
Old 25th March 2010, 22:04
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If you're stuck for replacements, try these guys:

http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=5
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  #10  
Old 25th March 2010, 22:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
If you're stuck for replacements, try these guys:

http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=5
Thanks, that's handy but how do I find out the size of the ones that I have.?
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  #11  
Old 25th March 2010, 22:23
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Well, you'd need a thread pitch gauge and something to measure the bolt diameter. A vernier or digital calliper would do for the later:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32198

and you can get thread gauges here:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23483

You may find them cheaper on eBay - my digital calliper only cost me a 50p (but I did have to wait for it to come from Hong Kong).
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  #12  
Old 25th March 2010, 22:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
Well, you'd need a thread pitch gauge and something to measure the bolt diameter. A vernier or digital calliper would do for the later:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32198

and you can get thread gauges here:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=23483

You may find them cheaper on eBay - my digital calliper only cost me a 50p (but I did have to wait for it to come from Hong Kong).
Thanks for that, I have micrometer and a vernier and a thread gauge but it's a case of all the gear and no idea.
for instance, If the shank is 12mm then would that be a 12mm bolt or m12?
Then what is the method for finding out the size in UNF? as the bolt is I think in between metric sizes.
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  #13  
Old 26th March 2010, 08:27
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http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/T...a/IDENTGID.PDF
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/techdata.htm

Measure the diameter of the bolt in question. If you believe it is imperial, set your vernier to measure in inches.

Then measure the TPI to identify the thread used. Then order the new ones from Namrick.

Of course, if you replace the bolt and the nut, it's much more simple. Just get the correctly sized imperial bolt, with matching nut.

If it's about 12mm, but 12mm is too small, then I'd guess it's a 1/2" diameter bolt. But measure just to be sure!
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  #14  
Old 26th March 2010, 09:10
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Both UNF bolts and Metric bolts are offically identifed by the diameter of their shanks.

The table below gives the imperial name (e.g 1/4) the reading you should get on your imperial micrometer and it's metric equivilent in mm

Imperial Fractional mm
1/8 0.125 3.175
3/16 0.1875 4.7625
1/4 0.25 6.35
5/16 0.3125 7.9375
3/8 0.375 9.525
7/16 0.4375 11.1125
1/2 0.5 12.7
9/16 0.5625 14.2875
5/8 0.625 15.875
11/16 0.6875 17.4625
3/4 0.75 19.05
13/16 0.8125 20.6375
7/8 0.875 22.225
15/16 0.9375 23.8125
1 1 25.4

Sorry about the odd formatting, the sapces between the columns seem to have been reduced to a single space

Last edited by Chris Cussen; 26th March 2010 at 09:11.. Reason: Apology
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  #15  
Old 26th March 2010, 09:42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/T...a/IDENTGID.PDF
http://www.classicfasteners.com.au/techdata.htm

Measure the diameter of the bolt in question. If you believe it is imperial, set your vernier to measure in inches.

Then measure the TPI to identify the thread used. Then order the new ones from Namrick.

Of course, if you replace the bolt and the nut, it's much more simple. Just get the correctly sized imperial bolt, with matching nut.

If it's about 12mm, but 12mm is too small, then I'd guess it's a 1/2" diameter bolt. But measure just to be sure!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Cussen View Post
Both UNF bolts and Metric bolts are offically identifed by the diameter of their shanks.

The table below gives the imperial name (e.g 1/4) the reading you should get on your imperial micrometer and it's metric equivilent in mm

Imperial Fractional mm
1/8 0.125 3.175
3/16 0.1875 4.7625
1/4 0.25 6.35
5/16 0.3125 7.9375
3/8 0.375 9.525
7/16 0.4375 11.1125
1/2 0.5 12.7
9/16 0.5625 14.2875
5/8 0.625 15.875
11/16 0.6875 17.4625
3/4 0.75 19.05
13/16 0.8125 20.6375
7/8 0.875 22.225
15/16 0.9375 23.8125
1 1 25.4

Sorry about the odd formatting, the sapces between the columns seem to have been reduced to a single space
Thank you both, I'm sure that the information will help others also.
I'm off to a local small shop 'tucked away in the back streets and smelling of oil' to see if I can just buy the locking nuts.
If not I'll get the measuring stuff out and order on line.
Thanks again chaps, I can get on with it now and maybe see some progress.
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  #16  
Old 26th March 2010, 20:52
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Couldn't get UNF locking nuts so decided to use large washers and tack weld them to mountings and tab them over when the old nuts are torqued up.

Fitted 12 poly bushes today, that's the back end nearly bushed up. Had a bright idea to remove the old and then fit new bushes. Threaded Rod and two big thick washers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Out with the old



And in with the new





Last edited by spritely; 29th March 2010 at 14:23..
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  #17  
Old 29th March 2010, 14:39
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Just going to update and decide what to aim for this week.
This is for my benefit really otherwise I wouldn't get anything done.

I've managed to find out some more weights and it looks promising, here they are;-

Body approx 50kg
Chassis 85kg
Rover V8 Engine 170kg max (inc ancilleries)
Gearbox approx 50kg
Diff and carrier 50kg
Suspension and hubs 104kg
approx 509 kg up to now (target weight 700 kg)

now what else is going to make it significantly heavier ?

This week I want to fit all the suspension and wheels so as the chassis can be moved around, I dont think I'll get all the bushes renewed but what isn't done by weekend will have to wait a week whilst I go away for Easter Holidays, think I deserve it
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  #18  
Old 29th March 2010, 14:56
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Fuel tank
Seating and Interior (Seats can be quite heavy)
The Driver!

The gooster came out at 891Kg - that's with a full tank of fuel.
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  #19  
Old 29th March 2010, 18:56
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Must be a lardy boy there Jason, my cabrio was only 840kg
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  #20  
Old 29th March 2010, 20:04
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Driver = 85 kg

Seats are small classic buckets from a Cobra and are pretty light, lets guess at 7kg each plus runners for drivers side so that's a guestimate for seats at 20 kg

Seats = 20kg

Fuel tank comes in at exactly 3 kg so add same again for straps and filler pipe and I guestimate 6 kg

Fuel tank = 6 kg

So add 111kg to previous total of 509 giving 620 kg on the road without fuel but still have to add radiator and sheet ally covering for tunnel etc so I should think 700 kg is achievable

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