Progress Update from Somerset

[eaa53]

Having reached a personal milestone I thought I would review the current build position and tidy up loose ends before re-starting afresh.

In summary the rolling chassis has:-

• Fitted side panels and roll cage
• Laid in the wiring loom ready for final connection
• Engine and gearbox installed and the engine wiring loom 90% in place
• Gear change mods completed
• Hydraulic Clutch installed
• All callipers O/H and fitted, pipework 90% fitted

• Total cost - approximately £3500 so far, no body panels yet
• Approx. time taken - 6 months since first collection of chassis, 3 months serious work

I am sure that there will be some empathy and some envy with the build status pictures that follow as well some 'sagely nodding of heads' and others scratching something.

We are all in a different state of build, the 'finished' will be nodding sagely, 'fresh starters' will wish they were closer to my status and the ones close to my current position may well be most interested.

Engine Bay of a Rover VVC PG1 power unit – not specifically tidy yet but all approximately in the right place.
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52912109_o.jpg






http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911903_o.jpg





Front end – Yes, for the sharp eyed out there the window screen is broken it was imported cracked specially for the fitting job and will be disposed shortly. I observed that a number of builders broke their first screen so I opted for a cracked one (offered for free) for the fitting work, it subsequently suffered catastrophic damage so I feel the option worth while.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911550_o.jpg



http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911660_o.jpg



http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911415_o.jpg


Cockpit – a lot of work to do here but the speedo is 'fitted' just not installed.
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911741_o.jpg



http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...52911851_o.jpg




It is my intention to de-camp to the garage now for the final work as I can foresee a lot of time will be needed to get the wiring correct.

My new push will be to start and run the engine (to drive it into the garage) followed by the full electrical installation.

Finally the body panels and dash board ( I am going to have to 'Flock' having seen the effect on alackofspeed's car in the TD workshop) and the window screen and the body panels will conclude the build phase.

I promised to detail the MGF gear change modifications and installation and I will do that before restarting the build.

Wants and for sale!
I am missing the centre of the steering wheel if anyone has one they don't want. This is the non air bag wheel.

I have a complete gearchange installation Marlin Standard design, rods cables clips etc.

I have a rear cross brace frame if you have the need, untouched and used.

Oh and a Rover 200 body shell.



Enjoy


eaa53

[MikeR]

You are cracking on !! - no pun intended

Next time i'm in your area perhaps i could drop in for a closer look.

Mike

[craig]

Good progress i always like following peoples builds as it's very interesting seeing the cars develop

Craig

[limpabit]

Hi John.

Progressing well.

As "already built" guys, still have work to do even when there on the road. Though you have done some during the build "MGF mods". Mundane things like radio's and speakers.

Seeing pictures like this, makes me want to start againfrom scratch. How I miss the main build up. Seeing engine start for the first time etc.

[SDMC001]

Memories, good to see the coming of another EXI.

Steve

[alackofspeed]

What is the car being panelled with? It looks at a glance like white corrigated plastic.

Also, what is the plan with the front suspension? I can see you've one Marlin upper arm with an ARB pick up - do you plan to fit an ARB? Marlin's advert for the front ARB kit still tickles me, as the advert reads, something akin to: "improve your car's handling with understeer"

At what angle is a k-series engine when mounted in a Rover 200? Do they lean forward normally? I ask, as most 4-cyl engines lean back over the shafts to improve the weight distribution, except fiat, alfa, and the 5 / 6 cylinder narrow angle V engines in the VAG cars.

[DavidH]

Thats looking good, your making better progress than I am. although am hoping to drop the engine into mine soon.

Somedays I seem to go backwards. My rear hubs are currently back at the factory and then discovered that the steering column from my donor must have collapsed in during the accident that wrote it off so have had to source one which hasnt had the same problem.

Mind everytime i need inspiration I only need open the rear bedroom and see and smell my nice new GRP panels.

[craig]

David, the steering columns are easily pulled apart again! I have played with a couple....you can hammer them shorter or pull them longer

Craig

[eaa53]

Sorry for the extended delay, the site would not let me log on and respond, not the first time I have had trouble getting on to the site. I did email the admin but got no response!



Panelling
I have used a ridged 3mm plastic sheet that is glued into position as a continuous sheet. Bent round the corners with a heat gun.
The option was, or would have been, to weaken the structure with pop rivets and add the weight of the galv against less side impact strength of the metal sheet. I intend to, in-fill and pad the chassis bars and line inside with the same material so the overall effect should be about the same, if not a little softer.

Anti Roll Bar pick-up
Well that's a long story, I have the ARB set-up ready and intended to fit it from the start however, the N/S top arm with ARB pick-up fouled the coil-over spring so I had to revert to the std. top arm for the mo. I may have to fit 1.9 dia springs to clear the fouling. The O/S clears by a gnat's dick. You have to remember also that with an anti roll bar fitted the mechanically stiffened geometry will enable me to use softer springs, that I think for me on the road, will be an advantage.

K Series Engine Angle
In the 200 the engine is pretty well vertical. I have no choice with the oil filter and switch fouling the suspension pick-up. My research indicates that 9deg off-vertical is acceptable for the K-Series.
The option to shift the whole engine back and remount is something I could ponder after SVA if there is a need and a driver for change.

How are your mods coming on John?
You are going to need a track day to test it what say you .... Where and when is the target?


David, as Craig stated the column is meant to collapse in-side itself unless it is bent is good to go.


Nice day today to take some pic of the MGF gear change.

Get back to you all later, were is the sun tan lotion?


eaa53

[alackofspeed]

Originally Posted by eaa53

How are your mods coming on John?
You are going to need a track day to test it what say you .... Where and when is the target?

A good question, and one that I can't answer. Once I have the car I'll get it back on the road in no time, but when I'll have the car back.......

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by eaa53

David, as Craig stated the column is meant to collapse in-side itself unless it is bent is good to go.

Thanks yeah I think it must have bent, me and a mate spent several hours many sore thumbs from slipped hammers and a few terse words, trying to get it to shift at all but it seems wedged good and proper. So I am assuming it bent when it crushed in. The annoying part was if I had ignored the build CD and not cut the gap between the UJ's down to 50mm it would have fitted. Oh isnt hindsight wonderful.

D.

[alackofspeed]

John,

I've revisited this thread, to check my memory that you'd chosen to contain your engine's rotation, by putting a mount on your aluminium frame.

Knowing that my memory is correct, I'm interested to know what wall thickness aluminium box you're using, as I have appreciably bent my rear mount during my car's recent rebuild shakedown. I had a 48mm OD steel tube, 2mm wall, spanning the rear chassis rails (it's shown in my thread). My drivetrain has applied sufficient load to the tube, to cause 10mm of permanent deformation to the tube without too hard a life (few heavy starts, but nothing compared to being abused on track).

Cheers,

John.

[eaa53]

I will look out the detail and photo the mounting and get back to you.

JohnC

[eaa53]

The detail of the engine steady is as follows, the frame is 50mm square section, 5mm walled aluminium.
The frame is secured to the chassis by 4 retaining bolts, 16mm thread, specially manufactured studs/mounting pieces are seam welded to the chassis member.
The Rover engine mount is bolted as close to the corner of the frame as I could get and is connected to the frame with 4 bolts.

The driving force will try to push the frame out of the back of the chassis and I believe it will cope with the expected forces. I have every faith in the design.

I would be interested in any comment from (Ex?)MarlinTurbo on the topic


Regards


JohnC


Side shot
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...66803642_o.jpg


Rear shot
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...66803640_o.jpg


General arrangement from rear
http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/7/9/7...66803639_o.jpg

[alackofspeed]

It'll be interesting to see how you get on. Incidentally under forward drive, the mount will pull on the frame.