#47 Spyder - Page 6

Mister Towed · #**101** 30th January 2014, 08:30

Love the exposed tubing in the 'doors'. It's going to be a very nicely detailed example.

Paul L · #**102** 30th January 2014, 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

... It's going to be a very nicely detailed example...

+1

Little Red Car · #**103** 31st January 2014, 13:58

Definitely the most impressive example of the marque so far. I look forward to seeing it in paint.

EL PRIMER · #**104** 1st February 2014, 21:53

looking forward to seeing this when it arrives too.

christinedmc · #**105** 23rd February 2014, 21:14

Hi there you all,

This week-end I had the doors sorted out. They work now. It was a hell of a job and I still have to work on some details. I made a mistake with the frame. The corner in front near the window was wrong. I had to cut this piece out. And re-bond the door shell.
But they work now and that is the important thing. I used a alignment plate and pin, a slam latch and a small slam plate. I still have to fabricate some cord to pull the latch.
The high door sill worked out nice. It's all very metal like. It even sounds solid if you slam the door. I have some side impact protection now considering the amount of metal that went in this construction.

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Michiel

Mister Towed · #**106** 24th February 2014, 06:07

Wow, great work. Those awesome hinges look worthy of Brunel!

garyh · #**107** 24th February 2014, 07:49

It really will be a 'special'.

Paul L · #**108** 24th February 2014, 13:02

Great job on the doors.

Have you got something special lined up for the edges of the bonnet?

Good luck, Paul.

Mister Towed · #**109** 24th February 2014, 15:02

Hmm, been having a think. Do you reckon you could switch to suicide doors which would improve access? Just a small matter of swapping the hinges over to the other ends of the doors...

christinedmc · #**110** 24th February 2014, 19:26

No need for suicide doors. It doesn't show on the pictures but the doors can open at about 100 degrees. The gap can't be any bigger.

And for the bonnet, yes I went for a different approach. I have cut the pointed pieces behind the front wheels. These should be bonded to the body. It gives better clearance to the engine bay without them points sticking in your back. It gives better control of the long gap between bonnet and body. And it looks better in my opinion.

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Before that, I first had to build the bonnet hinge. First I welded 8 nuts to the hoop that should go into the nose. I could put screws through them and screw the hoop in the nose. I put the bonnet in place and welded a hinge construction to the hoop. Then I had the hoop removed and had it galvanised and coated. I think that is important because I don't want a rusty mess bonded in the GRP bonnet after a few years.
While bonding the hoop into place, the welded nuts work as ankers for the bonding paste or whatever you are using.

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Then I have made two pull bars, which gives the bonnet more rigidty and control. I positioned them in a way that I can easyly bolt inner wings to them.

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Michiel

Mister Towed · #**111** 24th February 2014, 21:05

Nice work, good call regarding the galvanised bonnet hoop. Oh, and I was joking about the suicide doors.

phil9 · #**112** 25th February 2014, 17:17

very nice work some great bits and bob's in this build. ...its going to be a top motor is this..

EL PRIMER · #**113** 27th February 2014, 16:30

Nice approach with the flip front . Pretty sure Sammio 1 , The prototype was done in a similar way to avoid the bottom of the wing fouling the body as it tips forward. The first Spitfire based example was done in the same way as well.
If you go to the very first thread on this forum . Feedback please . You will see the 2 cars I am referring to on the first page.

christinedmc · #**114** 27th February 2014, 20:38

Yes indeed. The Sammio prototype seems to have a simmilar kind solution. A bit in the middle perhaps. Didn't know. Out of curiousity; why was it changed back the way we know it today then? Didn't it work out for some reason?

Michiel

AndyP57 · #**115** 28th February 2014, 08:17

It seems we had the same idea here.

Nav TK002 which is now in paint has a split bonnet too. We took a horizontal line from the apex of the arch, fixed the bottom part to the body tub and put a flange return on both top and bottom joins. We intend putting a couple of locating pegs on the bottom to locate into holes in the top. The thinking is that when the bonnet is flipped, access is still impeded by the rear of the arch.

Also, after having driven my own car with straps at the bottom of the arch as usual, whenever it got to 40mph or more, the flapping was noticeable. This way, all should be tight and the only retention required will be at the top.

Paul L · #**116** 28th February 2014, 11:35

Michiel & Andy - Lots of interesting ideas for the bonnet.

El Primer - Are you actually Gary J. with a new user name?

Good luck, Paul.

Nike55 · #**117** 28th February 2014, 23:33

Some very useful ideas for my scrap book...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul L

El Primer - Are you actually Gary J. with a new user name?

)

Funny you should mention that Paul, I had the same feeling. Too much inside knowledge.

I was hoping it was as he was a key person on the site who had seen (and done) it all before and the lack of his presence has been very noticeable.

Anyway if not GJ then not to worry as EP seems just as knowledgeable and his/her future posts will be watched by me with interest!

christinedmc · #**118** 1st March 2014, 00:45

Hi EP and Andy,

How about that. Well if it was done before I guess it should give me confidence that this bonnet solution works. In any case, I like it.

Michiel

Mister Towed · #**119** 1st March 2014, 08:51

I'm Gary J!

I'm Gary J!

No, I'm Gary J!

Etc., etc...

davecymru · #**120** 1st March 2014, 09:40

No i'm Gary J.... .and so's my wife!

(sorry, couldn't resist)