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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #301  
Old 16th March 2011, 19:32
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Haven't posted any updates for a while, so here's some piccies of stuff I've been doing in the last couple of weeks.

The low fuel light circuit is working nicely, and it provides two stage warning of fuel depletion by separate LEDs. I made this little holder at my engineering class to keep both of them together in the existing low fuel incandescent warning lamp had on the the dash. Yellow for low, Red for you're on your last legs.







It's just a friction fit into the plastic body of the lamp, just like the old bayonet bulb holder.

I've also turned some nice stainless steel knurled knobs for either end of the windscreen. Stainless is a bitch to machine - plenty of lubricant required for these knobs!



I'm really happy with the finish on these. After doing all the hard work at college on the lathe with a carbide tool, I took them home and with the aid of a M6 bolt with the head cut off, I mounted them in my pillar drill and set it to the fastest speed I could. I then started with 100 grit and worked my way up to 1500, before finishing them off with a polishing mop.



I've also taken up woodwork.

I made some plywood templates and with the help of my mate Iain, we cut the dash surround and door caps from some Sapelle I got from a local timber merchant





They need a good sanding to remove the tooling marks, but they looking great already. The intersection between the door cap and dashboard will be cut at 45 degrees or so, so the wood will appear to flow from the dash onto the door. They're attached using some M6 wood inserts and M6 bolts.

I've also just ordered a replacement fuel cap - a 2 3/4" Aston. More bling!

I'm halfway through making my lamp saddles for the high level tail lamps - I've done the turning, I just need to drill the mounting holes and counter bores on the milling machines in next weeks engineering lesson.
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  #302  
Old 16th March 2011, 19:41
timbo timbo is offline
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Looking very nice, Jason, well worth all the effort!
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  #303  
Old 17th March 2011, 07:52
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Your efforts look great. You could go into production with those knobs...

I have been going to "Metalwork" evening classes as well. Great fun. Building a small steam engine (to power the Marlin when petrol gets too expensive lol)

Robin
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  #304  
Old 17th March 2011, 08:04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinClan View Post
You could go into production with those knobs...
Not with the method I used.

The only stainless bar I had was 40mm diameter, and I had to turn it down 25mm... I love the smell of hot cutting fluid on metal. Smells of victory.

If I followed the same procedure, I suppose I could sell the swarf as very expensive brillo pads!

I only wish I could have made the knurling a bit deeper, but I was amazed that the non carbide tool I was using at Tresham actualy marked it at all!
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  #305  
Old 18th March 2011, 13:16
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Very nice 3/3
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  #306  
Old 18th March 2011, 15:58
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Ooooo. Shiney!







2 3/4" Chrome Aston from CBS. Looks like the flange mounting bolts has the same PCD as the aero cap I've already got, so it should just drop in. When I get her painted, I'll get the to paint the flange the same colour as the body.
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  #307  
Old 25th March 2011, 18:38
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High level tail lamps mounted:



The mounting saddles are made of 35mm aluminium bar that has been machined by yours truly at his engineering night class.



They're attached by a couple of stainless M4 cap head screws which are countersunk into the saddle. The lamp is held in place by the two M4 grub screws you can see on the back of each saddle.



I need to take them off and paint them satin black like the roll bar. I've toyed with the idea of polishing the aluminium up, but I think black would be better.

I need to chase the wires through the bar yet as well.
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  #308  
Old 25th March 2011, 21:46
NigelB NigelB is offline
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They look great.

And it makes me think that a combined rear light / brake light at that height would be a good idea.

I've often wondered about the lamp clusters mounted on the rear wings and whether the extent of their angle to the vertical reduces their visibility at night. Your suolution with a combined brake / rear light at height would overcome that.

Nigel
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  #309  
Old 25th March 2011, 22:09
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Nigel - they are stop and tail. They take dual filament bulbs.
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  #310  
Old 25th March 2011, 22:25
NigelB NigelB is offline
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Thanks Jason.

Yeh!! I've just looked back at your previous thread.

I'll make sure I put some wires through the rollbar when I get to making the loom.

N.
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  #311  
Old 26th March 2011, 07:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
High level tail lamps mounted:



The mounting saddles are made of 35mm aluminium bar that has been machined by yours truly at his engineering night class.



They're attached by a couple of stainless M4 cap head screws which are countersunk into the saddle. The lamp is held in place by the two M4 grub screws you can see on the back of each saddle.



I need to take them off and paint them satin black like the roll bar. I've toyed with the idea of polishing the aluminium up, but I think black would be better.

I need to chase the wires through the bar yet as well.

Well done they look really smart!

You'll have fun chasing the wires through the rollbar
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  #312  
Old 31st March 2011, 07:39
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Wires chased (PAIN - even with a fish tape), saddles painted - pics tonight of them working, fingers crossed.
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  #313  
Old 31st March 2011, 17:40
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Pics:

Both lit up


Tail


Tail & Brake


When I first connected them, I couldn't work out why they wheren't working properly - tails would work when you switched the lights on, but when you hit the brake they'd go out.

Turns out that you need to watch out which filament is connected to the brake and the light circuits. I'd inadvertently wired it up so that the bright high resistance brake lamp was on the light circuit, and the low resistance (dimmer) tail lamp was on the brakes. So when you hit the brakes, it earthed through through the brake circuit as it was an easier path than flowing through the bulb. D'oh!

Wire up the other way and it works fine.
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  #314  
Old 4th April 2011, 21:31
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Here's the new aston fuel cap fitted:



Bling! But it's not all sparkle and no function. If I wanted to, I could leave the locking cap off - it's all sealed but properly vented when closed without it. The locking cap is to stop toe-rags making off with my hard earned liquid gold.



I've mounted so that when you flick the catch it opens (it's spring loaded) and stays open due to the slope of the bodywork. I did think about having it the other way down with the catch toward the back, but it would flop back down after opening, making it a pain to get the pump nozzle in.



I'm really pleased with it. When it arrived, I thought it might be too big, and stand too proud of the bodywork, looking awkward and odd. But with it on, I think it's just right.

When I take Vikki for paint, I think I'll get the flange portion of the fitting painted the same colour as the bodywork. What do you think?
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  #315  
Old 13th April 2011, 19:27
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I've finished shaping the wood for the cockpit, sanded it all smooth & given it all 3 coats of yacht varnish. I'm chuffed to bits how its all come out:









Getting the door caps to fit has been a right swine - it's pretty much bob on now, but I will be fitting some rubber profile between the door and the car and when it's bolted on it'll take up any of the small gaps there might be.

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  #316  
Old 15th April 2011, 22:26
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Some lovely work going on there. Great attention to detail.

John
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  #317  
Old 25th April 2011, 15:45
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A little bit of titivating today. I've added a small bead around the inner edge of the wooden dash surround, and added the D shaped bead to the outside edge of the dash and to the door caps:







The inner bead matches the trim around the boot panels, and has been glued on with impact adhesive. The outer bead is sandwiched between the fibreglass and the wood, and is held there once the wood has been tighten up pinching the flange. Same goes for the door caps. It's a small detail, but i think it makes a big difference.

Now, if only my metal would turn up, I could make my door end caps. I'd like to have them done for next weekend when I come up to the show.
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  #318  
Old 26th April 2011, 20:48
AndyDane AndyDane is offline
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really impressed with the hard work you've put in and the results you've achieved. That wood is really good looking

Andy
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  #319  
Old 27th April 2011, 19:50
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i've finished the metal end caps of the wooden door tops:






Lots of filing, lots sanding through endless grades of wet & dry, and then polished up using 3 different mops.

Kerchow!
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  #320  
Old 27th April 2011, 22:25
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very, very nice work
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