Jag's 250SWBc build

[Jaguartvr]

I'm not keen on cars that are dripping in Ferrari badges, but each to their own. I was looking for something that gives a nod to Ferrari but at the same time not trying to make it something that it is not.
I bought a genuine Ferrari "California" glove box badge but it was too small to really use on the bodywork so i have had some larger ones cut (Thanks Paul).

The top badge is the original glove box badge, the second one is how they come to me and the last 2 are after I have polished them on my buff and ultrasonically cleaned them. The polishing is very time consuming.



This is them on the boot to give you an idea of the size. I had a few made, by the time I have bought a couple buffing wheels and polishing sticks to finish the badges they will be around £40 if anyone is interested.
Not sure yet how to fix them as they are just flat on the back. I'm thinking of putting them in the oven to get them hot and then using glue from a hot glue gun, by pre heating them the glue should stay molten enough to allow you to coat the back and fit them into place. Not sure if this will work, you would have to devise you own way of fixing them, that way you can't complain to me if they drop off!

[Roadster]

3M do a refix tape - its designed to reattach badges and trim after body repair

[Jaguartvr]

Thanks for that, it will probably take a bit of time and effort to trim the tape with a scalpel.
Don't forget, if your badge falls off, it's Roadsters fault!!!

[Mitchelkitman]

I'd go for clear polyurethane (like sikaflex) to fix it.

[mazdarazmataz]

Those 3m tapes are very secure

[Lucky@LeMans]

Happy to help out with the supply of these badges. My laser cutter has invested a fortune in new equipment recently and the whole process has moved forward a long way in recent years. No more rough sharp edges with the process , the finished profile is clean and crisp. Just need a final polish with wet n dry and a polishing mop.

[Jaguartvr]

They're a bugger to polish on the buff, the stainless is so hard.
So far I've bent two S's and 1 P has disappeared somewhere! The buff catches them and throws them into the darkest corners of the garage. The longer script is ok as you have something to hold onto but the single letters are hard. Thank your cutter for me, he did a great job.

next time I need a batch of alloy cut for my motorcycle parts I'll give you a shout.

[Mikewade]

I wonder if some small studs could be silver soldered (or glued?) on, and then it could be fixed in the traditional way?

[DaveP]

Is the S the right way up? I bet it is but it does make my ocd flare up

Dave

[mx5teo@planet.nl]

Like this

[Jaguartvr]

Originally Posted by DaveP

Is the S the right way up? I bet it is but it does make my ocd flare up

Dave

It was a test to see how long it took you all to spot it!

[Paul L]

Jag – I think those badges will look good.

I know you have already bought a rear plate for your new B reg.

But I can recommend these guys to get a more retro looking one:

http://www.tippersvintageplates.co.u...ocument&part=5

They did a great job on my new C reg.



Good luck, Paul.

[Jaguartvr]

I have some embossed alloy black and silver plates, very well made and a 2 day turnaround and they were only about £18 for the pair. I haven't fitted the rear plate yet as I am working on the boot still, or will be as soon as I have got my head around the electric window wiring so that I can instal an emergency window opening circuit.

[Barber]

Seems to me that this could be a meeting point for burglars.

[Jaguartvr]

To get to the emergency switch you will need the key to open the boot and disconnect the battery. This will set the alarm off and you still need to find the hidden wires to attach to the battery.
If you really wanted to nick it you be in through the rear window in under a minute, or if they were just after my collection of Abba tapes they would most likely use that old favourite....The Brick.

[Barber]

Is your boot done, photos?

When you get the paint job, will you flat back and polish yourself?

[Jaguartvr]

If I have to flat and polish the paint, my painter will be getting a boot up the bum!

Haven't done any more on the boot as the central locking is holding me up. I need to sort out a way to be able to lower the window from the boot. I've misplaced my Haynes manual and electrics aren't my strong point. If anyone knows how to wire it up, please let me know, it's doing my head in!

[froggyman]

If all else fails, keep one of these in the boot.LOL
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIFE-SAVIN...QAAOSwyjBW3arg

[Jaguartvr]

Probably cheaper than a new roof, I don't think it will take another window removal!

[Jaguartvr]

Finally managed to get back on the car. December and january were just too cold and wet, hopefully it will now start to improve. The problem with a forced stoppage is you lose momentum and I've now got to find out where all my tools and parts have disappeared to in the garage. The other problem is finding a new starting point.

I decided that the bonnet gap next to the windscreen pillar/door skin should be the next area for attention.
This is the N/S which I haven't yet started, you can see the gaps.



This is the other side, I have already built up the top of the door skin and now want to blend it into the bonnet curvature. I going about it slightly differently, I don't want the alloy strip at the top of the door but am going with a rubber window seal.


Have just used a plastic L section then filled it with GRP paste




Not pretty but you get the idea, here it is after a quick sand but obviously not finished, job for tomorrow.



I will reinforce it underneath with some GRP tape when I next have the bonnet off.
Now Top Tip!

I bought a set of different shaped velcro sanding blocks including a concave one for finishing the top of the wings



Very good it is too but it's handrolick and I'm lazy so came up with a cunning plan.
The top of the block is also hook and loop so it will attach to my detail sanders flat bed.



Makes sanding much easier and quicker!