All Aluminium 1957 250 Testarossa - Page 22

Lucky@LeMans · #**421** 10th January 2021, 13:13

I'm thinking of finishing my Formosa in the same way. Whilst much of the TR was bare aluminium a fair bit was painted but you wouldn't know. I found some paint that was an exact match looking like rough ali !

kevemm · #**422** 10th January 2021, 13:34

Excellent will be interesting to see

Mick O'Malley · #**423** 11th January 2021, 08:19

4 Bis Rue de Ripoff, more like. First reg '57? They're having a laugh!

Regards, Mick

peterux · #**424** 11th January 2021, 17:55

No disrespect to the builder but the lies in this advert are unbelivable and clearly in breach of the website.

Example text from the advert......

Description and History

The Ferrari offered here is an exact reproduction of a 250 TR with Scaglietti body. The Italian firm Giordanengo; with nearly 30 years of experience, has a reputation of being one of the best in the world in building Ferrari recreations. To build this car, the brilliant craftsmen of Giordanengo handcrafted an alloy body around a tubular steel chassis. Every effort was made to meet the proper specifications, so that the rebuild was virtually indistinguishable. of the authentic. This replica, owned by an English industrialist, is not finished. Indeed, the latter had done step by step the reconstruction of this replica but could not carry out his project following a fatal illness.

Lucky@LeMans · #**425** 11th January 2021, 18:14

I think the dealer is the third owner since I sold it. The story has changed or been embellished and some of the facts have changed along the way. Apparently I am writing this from the grave !

kjn47 · #**426** 11th January 2021, 18:40

Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍

Lucky@LeMans · #**427** 11th January 2021, 19:37

Anyone who wants to know more about what happened to the original Ferrari chassis that was under the 250 TR before the body was cut up and removed needs to watch this video. From about 12.30 in, all is explained !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aouiOxqcdA

Also the story of chassis 0611GT with before and after details

https://www.forza-mag.com/issues/179...a-with-a-twist

Lucky@LeMans · #**428** 11th January 2021, 22:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjn47

Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍

It is quite a simple process. You need to make a male mould of the shape you want to make, I made mine from wood with a skim of body filler over the top. The surface finish needs to be smooth and blemish free.
Make a wooden frame a couple of inches bigger than the mould to hold the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet can be screwed to the frame with self tappers every couple of inches.
Heat in your oven at around 160c until you can see the plastic start to sag then quickly take it out and press it firmly over your mould.
Hold it down long enough until it begins to cool and it will hold the shape.
I used 3mm perspex but you also use polycarbonate.
There is an element of trial and error but its quite easy to do.

molleur · #**429** 11th January 2021, 23:54

I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.

Mister Towed · #**430** 12th January 2021, 07:15

I heard that Donald Trump owned it but the Democrats stole it from him. Like seriously, Dude, it's true and sh*t. I read it on Twitter. Rise up! RISE UP!

kjn47 · #**431** 12th January 2021, 13:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by molleur

I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.

Thank you for this. It’s really very helpful. Kevin

kjn47 · #**432** 20th January 2021, 11:38

Hello again,

I am planning on building a Ferrari 250TR/TR59/60 the Fantuzzi bodied car which shares the same width and wheelbase and track as your 250TR. I have had a 3D model created based on blueprint and photographic reference that is quite accurate. I intend to have a Styrofoam full-size model produced of the car from which I am going to make a one off body.
I was considering using a TVR Tasmin but I think the chassis may require too many alterations?
Can you let me know what alterations to the width of the Locost 7 you had to make in order to fit your body. If you retained the dimensions of the Locost chassis that would be most helpful. I’ve tried looking on the Internet but could not find such detailed information. Also did you require any wheel spacers?
I look forward to hearing from you when you have a moment.
Kind regards
Kevin
Shropshire UK

Lucky@LeMans · #**433** 20th January 2021, 13:59

Looks like a great project. The Locost chassis wasn't modified, the track and wheel base were correct. The driving position was very short but that was due to tiny cockpit area governed by the body shape. If designing from scratch you might want to increase the space inside a little. No wheel spacers fitted but the hub adaptors do increase the track a little. Luckily on my car it all fell into position.

kjn47 · #**434** 20th January 2021, 16:03

Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated.👍

molleur · #**435** 20th January 2021, 16:11

Kevin, why Styrofoam?
Urethane foam is much easier to work and compatible with polyester resins.

kjn47 · #**436** 20th January 2021, 16:30

Thank you for this suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resins?

kjn47 · #**437** 20th January 2021, 16:31

Thank you for the suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resin and matting etc?

molleur · #**438** 20th January 2021, 16:46

that would depend upon if you intend to make a mould or simply a male one-off body which will require a lot of post-finishing.
If making a mould, a very fine finish is needed. Should you make your body buck and use it as a final product, it will be much more labor intensive to finish. Send me a PM for a more detailed and lengthy explanation.

rossnzwpi · #**439** 8th February 2021, 17:52

https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is.
Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene.

molleur · #**440** 8th February 2021, 18:17

Should you choose to use polystyrene foam, the extra expense of epoxy resins may be avoided by (after shaping) coating the plug with latex house paint, several coats. Them applying mould release wax and PVA
to the surface. This prevents polyester resins from attacking the styrene
foam. PITA to remove the polystyrene foam should some stick to the part (some will). Easily removed with acetone in a squirt bottle. The acetone will dissolve the foam quickly. Recently did this on three complicated fiberglass parts. PITA in all.