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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Old No.7 Builds

Old No.7 Builds 275 kits from Dan

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  #341  
Old 14th July 2018, 06:50
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Your car looks great.

As I'm based near Wembley, we can't be too far away from each other.

If you were interested, perhaps we can meet up one of these days?

Cheers, Paul.
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  #342  
Old 14th July 2018, 13:04
Egdik Egdik is offline
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Default engine hesitation

Paul sent a pm Kidge

Historically, there has been an intermittent engine hesitation on a steady throttle. The auto box is / was prone to change up of it's own accord. Both problems seemed to be worse in the rain . . . were / are they linked ?

As time went by the problem seemed to become more noticeable, especially on motorways, but rarely cross country.

Thinking it may be the led lights [winker circuits have ballast] I disconnected some or all of them, which appeared to solve the problem, but it reoccurred. Disconnecting the front offside side light gave best relief ?

Checked all earths were good.

A couple of you nudged me to try without leds and that helped . . .

Finally thought to check the number plate light, that had slipped below my radar . . . incandescent bulb fitted and no hesitation. Re-fitted the led bulb with ballast and that at present, a week, has solved the issue.

The auto box got worse at one stage but may now have settled into normal operation.

Here's the photo that should have been in the previous note, from my local roundabout.

1 otr ra 2b.jpg
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  #343  
Old 14th July 2018, 13:08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Egdik View Post
Paul sent a pm Kidge

Historically, there has been an intermittent engine hesitation on a steady throttle. The auto box is / was prone to change up of it's own accord. Both problems seemed to be worse in the rain . . . were / are they linked ?

As time went by the problem seemed to become more noticeable, especially on motorways, but rarely cross country.

Thinking it may be the led lights [winker circuits have ballast] I disconnected some or all of them, which appeared to solve the problem, but it reoccurred. Disconnecting the front offside side light gave best relief ?

Checked all earths were good.

A couple of you nudged me to try without leds and that helped . . .

Finally thought to check the number plate light, that had slipped below my radar . . . incandescent bulb fitted and no hesitation. Re-fitted the led bulb with ballast and that at present, a week, has solved the issue.

The auto box got worse at one stage but may now have settled into normal operation.

Here's the photo that should have been in the previous note, from my local roundabout.

Attachment 5391
That is a fine looking car, no matter how long it took or how much it cost. Kidge, you and Tribute have done the specialised car market a great service.

Last edited by Barber; 14th July 2018 at 13:13.. Reason: spelling
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  #344  
Old 14th July 2018, 13:11
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Has the autobox had a service?
New fluid and filter at 60k is a good idea, they were considered "sealed for life" but now oil and filter changes are recommended.
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  #345  
Old 14th July 2018, 13:15
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Default autobox

The auto box was cleaned and serviced about 15 months ago. There is a bit more play in the uptake than desired and some jerkiness, but mostly ok. Now done 87000 miles.
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  #346  
Old 15th July 2018, 01:55
Welshkiwi Welshkiwi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barber View Post
That is a fine looking car, no matter how long it took or how much it cost. Kidge, you and Tribute have done the specialised car market a great service.
That is a big plus one from me Barber. It is only due to the passion and vision of this scene that enables projects like this to come to fruition. I have said it before but Kidge you must be very proud of what you started and fully enjoy the spoils!
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  #347  
Old 23rd July 2018, 01:15
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Default Evening meeting ?

Hi Tribute owners,

Wednesday July 25th

We are thinking of meeting up at the West Lodge Park Hotel, Cockfosters Rd, Barnet EN4 0PY near Junction 24 on the M25.

Hopefully to meet at about 7pm for a social coffee and chat

Kiwi, sorry you can't make it, but we'll raise a glass to your build.
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  #348  
Old 25th July 2018, 21:38
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More words and photos to follow tomorrow, but for now…









Goodnight, Paul.
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  #349  
Old 27th July 2018, 06:19
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A few more photos...











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  #350  
Old 28th July 2018, 10:41
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Nice!!
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  #351  
Old 26th August 2018, 13:13
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Default more finishing bits.

Just tidying a few bits up before attending the Knebworth Show on August Bank Holiday Monday . . .

These door window lip / T seals, are designed for a Jaguar XK150, but suit here with a little trimming. Tried clamping a square steel rod onto the work surface and cutting with a stanley knife - just about gives an ok edge.

1 door window T rubber.jpg


Renewed the carpet on the parcel shelf and fitted a heated rear window. Looks neater. The chrome trim is almost impossible because the body does not fit the screen very well, at the top corners [not shown]

1 a renewed parcel shelf.JPG



Put some anodised stainless kick plate strips in, which work better with the carbon fibre sill covers.

1 anodised stainless kickplate insert.jpg


In the boot we have gone back to the standard plastic trim, with the addition of some little rubber edging strips, to tidy it up.

1 boot open above.JPG


We chromed the wiper arms:

1 chromed wiper arms.jpg



We found some brass thin U profile sections which we chromed and fitted over the leading edge of the quarter-light glass.

Finally, we created an emergency access route if the door locks failed, by wiring up the passenger window to a switch in the boot. Due to the possible high current we used 2.5mm wires and two switches. One to change the operation from the cabin to the boot and one to operate the window. Again, these must be 'heavy duty' type switches to cope with the loading . . . . let's hope we do not have to use it at all.

Washed and polished with Simoniz Carnuba wax.


Anyone else going to Knebworth ? . . . . Due to be cloudy but dry.
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  #352  
Old 28th August 2018, 06:14
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Any chance of more detail on your boot mounted window switch. I tried to do the same but the wires got very hot and I presumed I had got the wiring wrong.
When the remote central locking fails the system deadlocks, the only way to open it is to turn the ignition key.
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  #353  
Old 30th August 2018, 17:28
Egdik Egdik is offline
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Default Mirror lowering bracket and raising the rear ride height.

Jag, I will try and get a proper wiring diagram with the electrician's help.

Meanwhile . . . . several people have noted that the internal mirror position is not ideal, giving a limited rear view. We have solved this problem by working in two directions, firstly by making a bracket to lower vertically the mirror by 15mm. This involves 'sliding it' down the screen, by making an adaptor.

We chose a 22.5mm transposition / replication of the holes as this equates to a vertical drop of 15mm if one estimates that the screen is a 45 degree slope.

The photos may help understand how it works . . . on the right is an image of the bracket from both sides. It holds 3 spring rods, which attach the mirror to the boss on the screen. On the left is a drawing of what I was trying to achieve.

mirror adaptor plate in 5mm al alloy jpeg.jpg



By using the images one can draw / envisage a bracket: ours came out like this:


mirror bracket.jpg


Here it is fitted, from the inside and outside.

mirror bkt inside.JPG


mirror bkt outside.JPG


The second angle of approach was to raise the rear ride height a bit, by adding another 10mm rubber spacer above the top spring mount [and bump rubber] by using a lower spring pad and cutting off the central 'tube like' section.

We now have very satisfactory rear viewing.


Can someone please explain how to keep the photos in the blog and not end up with wretched links . . . please.
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  #354  
Old 2nd September 2018, 16:51
Egdik Egdik is offline
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Default Emergency door window switch in boot.

Here is a schematic drawing for an emergency switch in the boot to operate the passenger window. Just in case your locks fail / get stuck / central locking fails. I have had professional help here.

Because the supply is direct from the battery and has no limit to the current [excepting an inline fuse] the wire should be 2.5mm and the switches must be easily able to cope with a large current; also recommend that when operating, avoid the movement reaching the top and bottom 'stops' - as this is when huge current continues to flow . . . . because the stop switches are not working.


00 emergency passenger window switch in boot jpeg.jpg

I can email this image to anyone if required. The wire colours only matter where you cut in, but it is worth having a note in your records of the colours you use.

Any questions, doubts or observations welcome.

The next action to deal with the ECU engine hesitation was to put a 5W incandescent bulb in a number plate holder, in line / parallel with each rear position / side light led. By using the same 5W bulbs as standard, I am trying to replicate the wattage used [ even though the front side lights are 20W halogen bulbs - I tried changing these back to 5W and 2w leds, with no resolution] yet again, this seems to clear the problem, but wait a few days to see, as the hesitation does not always present itself straight away . . . . . We now have two extra lights in the boot and I put an aluminium heat sink on each holder.

Last edited by Egdik; 2nd September 2018 at 17:06.. Reason: [saves another post]
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  #355  
Old 2nd September 2018, 18:20
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Please email the schematic to me. Great back up plan, thanks.

jmolleur@cfl.rr.com
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  #356  
Old 2nd September 2018, 21:48
molleur molleur is offline
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Thank you Kidge, that was fast!
good luck on the 275.
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  #357  
Old 3rd September 2018, 05:02
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Do you have any details on the rocker switch that you used?
Did you simply splice the new 2.5mm cables to the window motor, if so I presume the final couple of inches of wire is much thinner?
I am just going to fit a switch to the driver's door as I found that if the car deadlocks you have to put the key in the ignition and turn it before the door will open.

Great solution, thanks for posting.
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  #358  
Old 3rd September 2018, 12:35
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We cut in / spliced behind the speaker in the passenger footwell, of the wires going to the motor, so part of the route is in the original thinner wires. We avoided wiring it in to the console switch, as the actual wires there only carry 5V ? and are too thin. I tried this first and blew the switch . . . so resorted to professional help.

The actual switch used in the boot was a Fiesta? one, which was provided by the professional auto electrician.
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