WCA - Build thread 3 - Page 13

WorldClassAccident · #**241** 24th November 2013, 13:28

Decided to try the painting today. The aim was not a final coat, or even near to that, but rather to cover the undercoat and try the sills in body colour.

First put the car up on the home made ramps and sand off the sills

on both sides

Spot water dripping out from under the car and trace it to a leaking screen wash bottle. (did you drop it Chris?)

Now spend an hour masking up the car with bin bag liners. Simply cut the bottom off and slit one side and you have a nice big sheet of plastic rather than faffing with lots of newspaper

I have watched lots of YouTube videos and how to build a spray booth and the importance of preparation in car painting. The way I see it, if they can explain how to be an expert in a 6 minute video, how hard can it be?

I didn't bother with a spray booth but my preparation did extend as far as adding a carrier bag where the bin bag didn't quite cover.

The paint went on slowly. it was a lot faster when I realised there was some sludgy paint skin sat at the bottom of the paint feeder

The end result was one of those really expensive and popular (with some) totally matt paint finish.

I do prefer the screen surround and sills body coloured and am now wondering if I want to refit the side pipes.

Scottie22 · #**242** 24th November 2013, 14:02

Big improvement WCA. Looks so much better all one colour.

Reference sludge in the bottom of a rattle can?
I usually, (especially in winter) stick the can in a jug of boiled water for 5 minutes or so, it makes the paint atomise much better, it comes out of the can with more pressure. In the 30 odd years I have never had a can burst or any downsides at all.

Obviously for health and safety reasons I cannot recommend this to any one else, but its what I have done for years, and it has always worked well!

(Sometimes the can is too hot to hold, and I have to wear gloves!)

WorldClassAccident · #**243** 24th November 2013, 14:41

It was a gravity fed paint gun on a cheap compressor but I reckon the tip about warming the paint still stands up. I think this was the main problem.

Quick Cautionary Tale
I was admiring the car on the drive and thought I still had time to whip off at least one of the back wheels and get it ready for spraying. Rather than roll the car down to the flatter bit of the drive in front of the garage I decided to do it where it was.

I stuck a spare wheel in front of the front wheel and cranked the car up on the trolley jack. being a sensible bloke I put the axle stand under the sill and lowered the car onto it. All safe and secure.

I started removing the wheel and gave it a wiggle and the car rolled forward less than an inch before it stopped against the chocks. Unfortunately this was just enough to tilt the axle stand and make it collapse.

Fortunately I had moved both of my legs from underneath the car a few moments earlier so I could wiggle the wheel more easily. Otherwise I would have been pinned under the car which would have been irritating.

I guess that raising one side of the back also raised the other side a bit so the handbrake and gearbox were only holding the back wheels to is could roll.

Anyway, the moral is if you are going to do something, do it properly and don't cut corners.

Scottie22 · #**244** 24th November 2013, 15:56

Heating the paint is definately the way forward, years ago when I left the army I worked part time in an old boys garage in order to learn the ropes.
There was a guy who did the spraying, and he stood the 2 litres tin of paint in an old twin tub washing machine, which would boil the water, when the paint was at boiling point he would chuck it in the gun, and always had superb results. He did this even in summer.

Reference the axle stand tipping over, I once had a car up on two axle stands, and was under it . A friend came round and leaned on the car to speak to me, I heared the groaning noise as the whole car slowly went sideways off both stands.
I was able to wriggle out REALLY fast.
After that, I got two steel wheels. mounted them them one on top of the other and welded them together. They were wide wheels so I had about 12 inches of solid steel.

If I use axle stands, these wheels go under the car next to me,
and the peace of mind this gives you is priceless!

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WorldClassAccident · #**245** 24th November 2013, 17:25

The wqheel I had choking up the front was taken from under the car because I had put the other one back in the garage along with the proper wheel chock and I was in a hurry. Who wants to walk 10 feet to get the proper bits...

Mister Towed · #**246** 24th November 2013, 18:14

I once reversed my slammed beetle up a pair of ramps in a communal car park where I was living to fiddle with the rear drum adjusters in situ. I crawled underneath, feet first, and made the adjustment with the handbrake off so that I could get the shoes to the point where they weren't quite touching the drums. Then I reached up, grabbed the rear bumper and pulled to drag myself out from under the car. I didn't move a millimetre, but the car fecked off into the middle distance with a surprising turn of speed as I hadn't chocked the front wheels. The (rusty) rear valance skimmed my nose at it accelerated down the ramps but I came away unscathed but wiser. Thankfully it came to a stop after about 100 yards without hitting anything, but then started reversing back towards me at an equally alarming rate of knots.

You live and learn.

Sills look so much better in body colour paint btw, or is that blood?

landmannnn · #**247** 24th November 2013, 20:51

Is it just me who is a bit scared to see what wca will do next?,

Tribute Automotive · #**248** 24th November 2013, 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by landmannnn

Is it just me who is a bit scared to see what wca will do next?,

No. No it not just you......

WorldClassAccident · #**249** 24th November 2013, 21:13

I was thinking of a bit of welding around the fuel tank...

... what could possibly go wrong?

Tribute Automotive · #**250** 24th November 2013, 21:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident

... what could possibly go wrong?

I said that just before I cut the end off my finger in the back of a cement mixer....

WorldClassAccident · #**251** 27th November 2013, 10:18

Should I add highlights?

Not sure I like the Maser badge on the grille. I have run out of money for chrome but am thinking of adding some painted highlights in white/off white. Possibly a few bits of text along the front wings or across the tail

WorldClassAccident · #**252** 30th November 2013, 11:11

I decided to fix the screen wash this weekend so I glued half a screen wash pipe connector to the snapped bit

To make it easier to fit and reduce the risk of snapping again I added a short connector. The heat gun made the cold pipe all warm and flexible

and fitted

Clearly after such an extensive piece of work I needed to take it for a shake down run. Off to Lyndhurst to see what the rest of the world is driving

Must paint the remaining wheels black

and sort out the proper grille

Does it look out of place?

Quick look around the New Forest

I decided the paint could be improved. Well, after my last spraying I don't think it could get worse.

First, duck tape some wet and dry to a cheap polisher, then sand/polish the bonnet, then realise you will need another sheet of wet and dry

It doesn't get rid of the blotchyness caused by my terrible thin paint spraying but there is definately the potential to shine

That is enough encouragement for me to take the time to give it another coat of paint and try to do it properly this time.

Scottie22 · #**253** 30th November 2013, 13:22

Looks very nice WCA.

Tribute Automotive · #**254** 30th November 2013, 21:24

I like the "patina'd" paint look, don't get it too shiny please.

WorldClassAccident · #**255** 1st December 2013, 14:43

This afternoon has been largely frustrating.

I decided to paint the two back wheels black to match the fronts. I put the wooden spanner on the spinners and twisted. Nothing. Twisted harder. Nothing. Tapped with a hammer. Nothing. Harder tap. The wooden spanner split.

I found an old window sill I could use to recreate the spanner. I got my trusty old jigsaw down from the shelf and managed to cut nearly half an inch before the blade snapped.

Finally managed to shape the thing to fit the spinner ears and removed the wheel. Primer and paint were both too cold so I put them in warm water for a while. Painted the wheel (badly) and put it back on. Went to remove the other wheel and my home made spanner split. I guess the spinners tighten up with use.

Sat in the drivers seat for a rest. Decided to squirt the windscreen wash only to find it didn't work. Popped the bonnet and discovered the carefully glued pipe and unglued itself and dumped all the screen wash.

Three hours work and the some result - I managed to tighten the drivers side wing mirror.

I am now going for a bath with a car magazine and a few beers. I may be some time...

WorldClassAccident · #**256** 2nd December 2013, 15:03

Today I found time to fit the side repeaters.

First I had to find the original wiring and bulbs. I took Chris's advice, turned on the hazards and then stuck my head under the bonnet and tried to find the flashing lights. Easy!*

I then had to decide where to position the repeaters on the side of the car. They couldn't go on the bonnet piece as that lifted and was awkward for wiring. They couldn't go on the door for similar reasons so they had to go on the little wing panel. Decision made. Easy!*

Now where on the panel? There are lots of vent cut into it which makes positioning dificult but after 30 minutes of blu-tac and standing staring I decided they would be least bad at the front top of the wings. Easy!*

I used the rubber gasket as a template to cut out the hole for the light to fit into. The light units are push fit with a little metal spring holding them in place so I had to make the hole a good fit. After faffing with a drill, dremel and hammer the holes were in place and the light unit fitted. Easy!*

Refit the front wings to the car after pushing the bulbs in place and the jobs done. Easy!*

*After the waste of time that my efforts were yesterday I thought I would record every little step of success today to cheer me up. ;-)

Still would rather not have the repeaters fitted though :-(

garyh · #**257** 2nd December 2013, 15:29

Could you not of put it at the rear of the panel, so it doesn't get in the way of the vents? Sorry...

y cymro · #**258** 2nd December 2013, 16:15

I love the shape of your car but dont think the indicators help, If you have to fit them, what about hiding them either in one or more of the vents or in the chassis holes so they light them up?
Or extend the wiring and fit them in front of the wheels?

WorldClassAccident · #**259** 2nd December 2013, 16:37

at the rear of the pane - Tried that initially but they looked worse
hiding them either in one or more of the vents - Falls fould of the angles of visibility laws
fit them in front of the wheels - The whole of the front lifts with the bonnet

in the chassis holes - angles of visibility prevent this too but now I am wondering about getting a light big enough to fill the first hole completely and protrude just enough to be legal

I will spend some time trying to work out what I can do but they can stay there while I think about it

Pandora · #**260** 2nd December 2013, 16:45

surely it can't be too hard to put them in front of the wheels - near where the headlights etc are? There must be wiring to them you could piggy back them off?

It looks out of proportion on the side panel.

I hate the law sometimes, it really gets in the way! My old car Pandora originally had MGB number plate lanps as headlights to comply with the requirements of the day (or rather the night)

Things were easier for designers in he '60s!

What about a different style of light, more in keeping with the '50s style?

Al