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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #21  
Old 17th August 2013, 08:06
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Very neat solution to the lowered floorpan issue. I found the limiting factor for moving the seats inboard is the chassis flaring out towards the back. What seats are you using?
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  #22  
Old 17th August 2013, 14:08
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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I have bought two Kirkey seats (Vintage). Are they called bomber seats as well?

Because they are made of aluminium, you can make some alterations. I have deformed the right side of the driversseat (LHD!) a little, to gain some extra movement towards the middle of the car. This is as much as you can get to the centre of the car as possible, because these seats have practically no extra with, exept your own bottom.
I made my own seat rails. Again, of the 3 mm aluminium sheet that I have plenty of. I had to make up for the angle of the floor.

I bought 1 seat cover, bearing in mind that I will have two of them made from leather. I looked for a sofa that had the color of leather that I want (green). The sofa was beautifully worn. I hope to get nice seats. They also support the 4 point harnesses that I have.

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Michiel

Last edited by christinedmc; 22nd August 2013 at 16:05..
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  #23  
Old 17th August 2013, 15:13
mikmiglia mikmiglia is offline
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I lijke them Michael, how did you come across them seats ??
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  #24  
Old 17th August 2013, 17:19
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Hi Mike,

These american seats are not to hard to find. I googled and got lots of leads.
It seemed that we have a kirkey dealer in the Netherlands. I'm not sure if they do the Netherlands, or Europe. I contacted them and had to tell them where I lived. They pointed out some car related businesses at about 30 km's away. The thing is: the seats come in different sizes. But what size is your ass? And do you have to take a sqeeced size (because I recon my but cheeks will be when I'm driving this thing )
Anyway, they sent seats to them and I could fit them around my... well you get the picture. It was a good size match. So I bought them.

Michiel

Last edited by christinedmc; 1st January 2014 at 17:59..
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  #25  
Old 17th August 2013, 17:53
mikmiglia mikmiglia is offline
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Thanks mike,

They will look the part once fitted, keep up the good work
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  #26  
Old 22nd August 2013, 06:08
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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I wanted the biggest size wheels/tires as possible. Gary told me 165/80/15 should be the biggest size if you make some alterations. I think bigger wheels look great. But, there are limits because of the outrigger (chassis) and the bulkhead. I was also a bit concerned about the dynamics of the wheel. When breaking the wheel will move a liittle to the back. And in high speed the tire will expand a little. So there must be enough clearance. Getting a large hammer to do the trick, wasn't exactly what I had in mind. I took photo's on the way which tell how I did it. Because like you told me, we all like photo's!

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  #27  
Old 22nd August 2013, 07:02
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Wow, top job. I hope you have faith in your welding if that's your brake pedal...
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  #28  
Old 22nd August 2013, 07:52
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slartibartfast slartibartfast is offline
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That front bulkhead chas come up beautiful. Good work.
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  #29  
Old 22nd August 2013, 08:01
garyh garyh is offline
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Your workis excellent, that's why we need photos. Soif you want big wheels, that's how you do it.
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  #30  
Old 25th August 2013, 19:41
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Hi all,

Here is an update on the changes I made to the steering column. I don't know the filosofy behind the Triumph Vitesse steering, but I don't like the design so much. The steering wheel is off centred to the driver seat and the face of the wheel has an angle towards the length axle of the car. Very strange if you aren't used to it. Besides that, I would like to have the steering wheel further to me.

First of all, I bought a 15" steering wheel with a small centre hole. Then a splined quick release steering hub. I had an additional aluminium hub beeing made that would fit between steering wheel and this quick release hub.
I got a combination of two U-Joints from a Corolla (I beleive). The rod between the two can slide so you can change the distance between the two. On top of one of the u-joint's I got a flattened rod that fitts the inner steering column tube. With the two possibilities to change distance and two U-joints, I can move the steering wheel whatever it suits me. I changed the frame around the steering wheel area. (also necessary for acompaning the instruments). I made a very strong bracket that would support the steering column. Some welding and an aluminium clamp that I also had beeing made. I re-used the the original clamp aswell. The two clamps have a very strong grip om the outer column tube. The rod that goes thru the the bulkhead had to be supported. A plate with a "nuckle-bearing" would do the trick. It all was a little more complicated then I anticipated, but it works very well. It feels rock solid and the position is perfect. I got the steering wheel, the seat and the hump, all in one line now.

Michiel

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Last edited by christinedmc; 1st January 2014 at 18:05..
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  #31  
Old 25th August 2013, 19:52
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Looks a very smart solution Michiel.

I think you may have put the steering wheel on the wrong side though
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  #32  
Old 26th August 2013, 19:38
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Very neat and reassuringly over-engineered solution to something that was obviously bugging you. Well done, you're a true Sammio perfectionist!
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  #33  
Old 28th August 2013, 09:25
zbre69 zbre69 is offline
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Very nice job !
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  #34  
Old 30th August 2013, 06:20
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Hi all,

Using the swing spring seems to be a good way to improve the ride and it's a common modification.
I did two things that I haven't read about on this forum before (but I could have overlooked). Firstly when I overhauled a swing spring, I renewed all the nylon/plastic caps that are between the leafs as well (besides the bushes and the pivot). The leafs should be able to move on top eachother smoothly. Mostly the plastic caps are gone or worn. New caps changes the ride (smoother), and the ride hight a little.
Secondly I had to make a modification to the brake hose. Normally you can mount the brake hose directly to the cylinder. However, the swing spring has a much bigger end (where it is fixed to the vertical). This is in the way, drawing a straight line from the hose connection on the cylinder. There is a good chance that you will be able to get the hose on. Maybe even by jacking the car a bit to give some space. And maybe it's also related to the size of lowering block (I use 1"). But you have to realise that there will be wheel travel on the ride. The last thing you want is the hose connection braking when pushed aside (repeatedly) by the spring end. (It's a single cirquit braking system and you will loose every brake!). The spitfires using the swing spring do have a modification standard. Using the bigger rear drums of a Vitesse, you need to modify them yourselve.

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Last edited by christinedmc; 1st January 2014 at 18:14..
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  #35  
Old 2nd September 2013, 10:33
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this is looking really tasty :-) i like how tidy everything is looking already
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  #36  
Old 3rd September 2013, 20:17
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Ah ha! .... very interesting. Looks like I will need some modification on my own Sammio. Thanks for that little nugget.
Slarti
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  #37  
Old 6th September 2013, 21:48
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Here's something about another way for placing the battery. My thoughts were: The battery is quite a heavy object and therefore must have a negative influence on the handeling of the car, when placed on a high position. So better not on top of the bulkhead. And if I'm adding a big lump of weight, don't pick the side that's allready much more heavy, bringing the car more out off balance. What if I can place the battery behind the seats? Maybe in a kind of cubby box?
And this is exactly what I did. Betweeen the fuel tank and the seats is enough room for some sort of cubby box. The difficulty was to make a construction that could be dismantled with the body fixed on top of the frame. With this feature I can dismantle the whole of the cubby box from the inside out, giving access to the fuel tank for example.


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Last edited by christinedmc; 1st January 2014 at 18:17..
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  #38  
Old 6th September 2013, 22:05
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Paul L Paul L is offline
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There are a lot of very nice touches in your build.

Can I just check how you have sealed the "vent" pipe on the petrol tank?

Is that just a section of hose with a bolt in the end, clamped into place?

Cheers, Paul.
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  #39  
Old 7th September 2013, 05:56
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Hi Paul,

For venting I use a plastic plug with a small hole. 1 or 2 mm diameter or so. Can't remember. The plug is in the rubber hose you mentioned.

Michiel
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  #40  
Old 15th September 2013, 18:22
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
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Hi all,

This is a different way to do the electrics of a Spyder. My origial loom is 45 years old, isn't up to modern functions like a electric fan, suits a dynamo instead of an alternator, got some changes allong the way, and doesn't fit the the dash design of my Spyder. In short, it won't do the job.

I got myself a new electric platform from Car Builder Solutions. It has all the fuses and Relais for all the functions you need. It comes with some explaining and is in fact very easy to use.

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Then I bought a new wire loom. From a Triumph TR3a. I could get this one for a nice price. It has all the basics you need for the Spyder. Then I cut it to pieces.

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I made myself a nice new Spyder loom, with all the right color markings, using the wires from the TR3a loom.

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Most of the work, and most of the wiring I used for a module I made myself. I really would like to have single red lightning at the rear. It means combining lightning, brake lights and indicator lightning in 1 dual fitment bulb.

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The wiring is all new then. I thought of an alternative way to make the wiring diagram. It turned out not to be that practical and I wouldn't advise it. But hey, it's better then nothing at all right?

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