Are you madabout kit cars      
 "We've Got Kit Cars Covered" Information about Madabout-Kitcars.com Contact Madabout-Kitcars.com         Home of UK kit cars - madabout-kitcars.com Various kit car write ups All the latest kit car news Kit car related and general discussion

Search
Manufacturers
Kit Cars
Kit Car Data sheets
Picture Gallery
SVA Knowledgebase
Clubs & Communities
Build cost estimator
Kit cars for sale
Knowledge Base 
KitcarUSA.com
Classic-Kitcars.com
 

Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #921  
Old 11th May 2014, 19:29
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Some Preparation Work...
Just to give you an idea of how much rain we've had, this was collected since I emptied it yesterday.



Didn't really have a chance to get stuck into any major work today.

So I simply removed the rear wheel arches.



This section will now return to the back garden which will make it easier to finish off the last bits of work required.
( Mainly the fibreglass repairs of some of the rust "gaps" at the base of the arches. )

Then the rear framework went back on.



I then used the fixing bolts to hold the frame in position.
( These bolts will be cut to size after all the layers of the "sandwich" are in place. )



With the bulkhead already bolted into place, I could now make a start on the "join".

I quickly bolted the two recycled "plates" into position.



The lower door hinge mounting point should be the easier of the two to secure.

I will either weld some box section to the middle of the plate like so.



Although I will need to do some trimming to take account of slight angles.

The alternative approach to this would be to run the box section along the bottom edge.



Again, there would be some trimming required to ensure everything sat tightly.

The top hinge mounting point is a bit trickier as the top of the rear framework is below the hinge.

Running the box section below the plate would work.



But I may have to put a "slit" in the end of the box section so it would pass either side of the framework.



I could also fix the box section to the top of the rear frame.

Then I would need to either drill a hole for the lower bolt to pass through, or just use two bolts, instead of three, in the join.

I still need to have a play with the old bumper brackets before I make a final choice.

With a bit of luck I will be able to start building these four brackets, two on each side, soon (ish).

Cheers, Paul.

P.S.
There will be another update along in a few minutes.
Reply With Quote
  #922  
Old 11th May 2014, 19:42
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Late Afternoon Tinkering...
The previous post covered the work I did this morning before we went out for a family pub lunch.
( So I didn't get a chance to post it earlier. )

There was a ray of sunshine later in the day that I used to get a bit more done...

Given how often I've had to remove & replace the body shell recently, I was getting more worried about this crack.



This was caused by cutting out sections using straight lines instead of curves.

So I cut down one of the sections of fibreglass that I had used to test the tech screws.

Then I drilled a couple of holes and used it as a brace which I hope will help stop the crack spreading.



Next I decided to start on the join for the lower door hinge mount, so marked up the box section.



Then I cut out the inside edges to allow for the different angles.



This gives a nice fit like so.



You can also see the difference in the top and bottom of the box section here.



One thing I noticed after bolting the frame to the chassis is that the outer edges of the frame look like they "sag" a bit.

I assume that the frame work should be roughly level with the bulkhead.



Which meant I needed to prop up the frame a little bit (less than 1 cm) to take up the slack.



Question
Should the frame actually be left at the "natural" angle that it wants to settle at?

Or should I put it under some upward pressure when I am bolting it to the bulkhead?

What I don't want to do is to stress the framework in any way that might lead to a failure of some sort.

Until next time, take care, Paul.

PS
The vegetable patch we started a few weeks ago is showing some signs of life.

Reply With Quote
  #923  
Old 11th May 2014, 20:15
Viatron Viatron is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,163
Viatron is on a distinguished road
Default

Paul, if its sagging already its only going to get worse, I would reinforce so that it stays in the position you want it in.
Mac
Reply With Quote
  #924  
Old 11th May 2014, 22:23
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Mac - The plan is that the "join" I'm building between the frame and bulkhead will fix everything into place.

So once that is completed, nothing should move one way, or the other (touch wood).

But I just want to make sure I have the rear frame in the correct position relative to the bulkhead before I start welding.

Obviously this would have been easier to explain if I had taken proper 'before' and 'after' photos.

So I will take some better photos next time and would be grateful if you could let me know what you think.

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #925  
Old 11th May 2014, 22:31
swifty's Avatar
swifty swifty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 839
swifty is on a distinguished road
Default

Paul it may pay to check using a straight edge from one side of the frame across to the other to see if the frame is sagging OR is the bulkhead twisted up over. If the frame is sitting down a little i would either cut the frame and re weld onto the chassis or cut three sides of the frame box section and realign and weld the split up.
Basically what i am saying is find out first where the problem is and work from there.
Reply With Quote
  #926  
Old 12th May 2014, 09:45
Viatron Viatron is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,163
Viatron is on a distinguished road
Default

Swifty Said:
"Paul it may pay to check using a straight edge from one side of the frame across to the other"

Lol that could be very a very amusing exercise!
Reply With Quote
  #927  
Old 12th May 2014, 10:32
Mister Towed's Avatar
Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
Mister Towed is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viatron View Post
Swifty Said:
"Paul it may pay to check using a straight edge from one side of the frame across to the other"

Lol that could be very a very amusing exercise!
I still have a factory Sammio straight edge for checking the trueness of the shell and frame. It's straighter at one end than the other of course...
Reply With Quote
  #928  
Old 12th May 2014, 10:36
oxford1360 oxford1360 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,152
oxford1360 is on a distinguished road
Default

I walked towards mine with a straight edge and it actually cowered. I'm currently matching frame and body and I spend most of my time crouching and leaning (like the annoying bloke on Chop Shop) to find what looks pleasing to the eye. A ruler and spirit level are not much use other than to fight off the squirrels and magpies.
Reply With Quote
  #929  
Old 13th May 2014, 15:28
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Swifty, Mac, Mr T & Oxford - Thanks for the replies chaps.
Those "straight edge" jokes really did make me laugh.
But they also reminded me that all old Sammio builders have alignment "issues".
So I will simply get everything as straight (ish) as I can and make the "join".
By the time the body shell and cockpit panels are in, it should all be very solid.
OK, it might be solid and a bit wonky too.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Ticking Over
Whilst I haven't had much time on the car, I have still managed to get a small job done.

Before I started welding the first "join" bracket, I practised on some "off cuts".
( As the plate is significantly thicker than the box section. )





Once I was happy with the welder settings, I switched to the real thing.







I do find it much easier to weld thick metal compared to thin.

Next it was a straight forward job to "cap" the end of the box section.





I'm really pleased with how solid this bracket is.

Which gives me hope that by using 4 "joins" I will be left with a secure structure.

Until next time, take care, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #930  
Old 13th May 2014, 17:09
craigt craigt is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 45
craigt is on a distinguished road
Default

Try putting your spirit level in the freezer before checking, guaranteed straight and true everytime
Reply With Quote
  #931  
Old 13th May 2014, 21:28
Scottie22 Scottie22 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 2,161
Scottie22 is on a distinguished road
Default

Well done Paul! Keep at it.
Reply With Quote
  #932  
Old 15th May 2014, 20:29
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Craig - I guess a frozen spirit level could work.

Scottie - Cheers.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

An unexpected journey...
My plan for today was to simply weld up the first "join" bracket to the rear frame.

But, as usual, the day didn't actually go quite to plan...

Following the debate about finding a straight edge to work with I thought I'd quickly put the floor in to see if that would help.

First problem of the day...



Obviously the floor will not fit into place as I've bolted the frame to the chassis.

Now the bolts are too long and it takes ages to unbolt them, but eventually the frame was removed.



Why did I remove it, when I was originally planning just to put the floor in?

Well by now, I had remembered that my original plan was to weld the floor in place.

In order to do this, I needed to trim the edges of the floor in a few places so I could join it to the frame below.

So I clamped the floor to the frame, using the pop rivets to ensure it was all lined up properly.



Then I could make up the floor edges ready for trimming.



Much better.



Then I cleaned up the edges of the floor ready for welding.



I also cleaned up the corresponding sections of the framework.

Then I used the six pop rivets to hold the floor in place & then added some clamps.



I had to move the frame around so I could get at the various edges.



This is the view from underneath and it is easy to see where the bend in the chassis gets in the way.



I can't move the floor to the right (in the photo above) because the seat would foul the edge of the cockpit.

Note: As it turns out, I might have to trim the edges of the cockpit anyway.

One passenger floor welded in.



At this point I haven't joined all the welding up, but I will come back to that another day.

Then the frame went back on the chassis and was bolted back on again.



I could reach the bolts while working in the space where the driver's floor will go.

So when that is fitted, getting to the bolts will be a major pain.

Also I don't think I will be able to lift the frame off by myself when the driver's floor goes in as it is pretty heavy now.

I dug out one of my seats to see how that was looking.



To be honest, the angle of the seat back combined with the angle of the lowered floors is still a problem.



I have seen another pair of seats on ebay that might work and the (trade) seller is local.

So I might just have to bite the bullet and buy new seats.

End of part 1....

Last edited by Paul L; 15th May 2014 at 21:02.. Reason: Typo
Reply With Quote
  #933  
Old 15th May 2014, 20:31
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Frankenstein's Cordite comes to life...
I have opted to fix the height of the frame at the side by eye.

Note:
You will laugh/cry later in this post when this approach turned out to be a much better idea that I initially thought.

So I propped up both sides of the frame with whatever I had lying around.





The slope of the drive means I need more spacers on the driver's side as that is how the suspension has settled.

This is the view from behind and the frame is horizontal (ish) as the bulkhead is bumpy in places.



I just needed to enlarge one of the holes in the mounting plate.



After cleaning up the frame & bolting the mounting plate into position, I could clamp the bracket in place and weld it.





So far, so good.

But when I took the same length of box section to the other side I came up short?



Because obviously the two sides of the frame work are completely different lengths!!

This is the driver's side:



Note the gap from the front cross member of the frame to the leading vertical edge is approx. the width of the box section.

And this is the passenger side:



Where the same gap is approx. twice the size of the box section.

So it is completely pointless to measure anything on this [American Slang]POS[/Cussing]!!

Following the wise words of Mister Towed to simply "Just Do It" I carried on....

I found a longer length of box section and only needed to make a cut out at one end.



With everything cleaned up I could bolt the mounting plate in and clamp everything up.



After the first round of welding the bracket was looking like this.



I then just needed to cap the box section.



With all the props removed the frame remained rock solid.





Looking at the last photo above, you can see the different lengths of the frame / box section "joins" on both sides.

By the time I add the two upper "join" brackets the whole structure will be very strong indeed.

Note:
As always, these frame problems will not be present in the Ribble Navigator.

So although the day didn't quite go to plan, I passed significant landmark in the build.

It is now clear that my Frankenstein build option will work.

There is still a lot of work to do before I can finish joining all the big "jigsaw" pieces together.

But this was a major step forward, so I will take the little victories when I can.

So until next time, take care, Paul.

Video Link:
I posted this on Scottie's build thread as he has an old Jag in his back garden.

But it is well worth sharing again here as it is living proof you can get things done one step at a time.

22 year Jaguar MkI restoration

Having said said, I'd like to be on the road within 4 years of starting this project, not 22!
Reply With Quote
  #934  
Old 16th May 2014, 06:33
mikmiglia mikmiglia is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 424
mikmiglia is on a distinguished road
Default

Paul this is looking great pal , keep up the good work mate.
Reply With Quote
  #935  
Old 16th May 2014, 14:41
a big scary monster a big scary monster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 198
a big scary monster is on a distinguished road
Default

Seems you had a good day and most possibly a huge turning point in the build, hopefully now you should see progress with each task. Not only that but I will be able to sleep at night without worrying the adorable recycling angels who drive transit vans with many bed frames in the back and strive tirelessly to save our planets iron ore rescources have absconded with ⅔ of your car, as it was only wrapped in covers and not bolted to the ground with an armed guard sat by it so therefore it was for them. Ed.
Reply With Quote
  #936  
Old 16th May 2014, 21:19
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Mike - Cheers, I know it has taken me a long time to get this far, but I am inching along in the right direction.

Ed - I will be very happy when all of the big pieces are fixed to the car permanently.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Close, but no cigar...
Tried to make the most of the short amount of time I had available today.

Previously I had cut these two plates from the pedal mounting section of the bulkhead framework.



Now I just needed to mark up and drill holes to match the Spitfire door hinge mounts.



Even using oil on the various drill bits, this was hard work.

But eventually the passenger side plate was bolted into place.



I used some cardboard to get the angles needed for a simple join.



Then I cut the box section to match, but the usual cut out to take account of the different angles.



After cleaning the metal it was time to clamp it in place and start welding.





I will come back and "cap" this later as I was desperately trying to finish the other side before time ran out.

Obviously the driver's side was more of the same.



Although I had to cut off and clean up the semi-circular bracket that was welded on by the factory.
( I never did find out what it was meant to do. )







I didn't quite finish the welding as I managed to blow up the end of my welder.



But even at this stage, the four joining brackets are going a great job.

It was time to pack up at this point anyway, so I will try to sort that out tomorrow.

My eldest daughter was going to a friend's house for a party and I'd promised to watch some DVDs with my youngest.

We'd watched a programme about Mini Coopers the other day, so she had requested The Italian Job.

So we have just finished watching both the original and the modern version.

Until next time, take care, Paul.

Last edited by Paul L; 16th May 2014 at 22:33.. Reason: typo
Reply With Quote
  #937  
Old 17th May 2014, 20:03
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Saturday
An early start so I could be outside the nearest Machine Mart at 8.30am when it opened.

Despite this, I was still caught in a stationary traffic jam on the way home on the North Circular.

I picked up everything thing I needed and a few spares while I was at it.



Thankfully it didn't take long to replace all the damaged bits of the welder.



I even managed to reach this point before the rest of the family had made it down the stairs to start their day!

But then it was back to family stuff as we decided to have another mini BBQ for the four of us.

In the afternoon I did get my wife's help to shift the rear arches through the house & back into the garden.
( This is just an easier place to finish the last bits of work required. )



Just a few minutes ago I remembered my modified panel cover was in the Summer House, so I dug that out.



It is a pretty good fit as it is, but it will OK take a few tweaks to get a perfect seal.

But that was it as far as the car was concerned, with a bit of luck, I might get a bit more done tomorrow.

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #938  
Old 18th May 2014, 20:18
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Sunday
I finished off the last bit of welding on the driver's side bracket and added a cap.



I then had a slight mishap on the passenger side when I dropped the cap inside the box section.



In the end I was able to fish it out using a BBQ skewer and some masking tape.



Then it was welded into place.



There was one odd job I needed to do before I went any further.

The bracket that holds the rear radius arm to the frame had a loose bolt.



This was how it had been fitted to my donor car, so I finally got around to welding the bolt into position.





Then I unbolted the driver's side of the frame from the chassis, so I could add the driver's floor.



Part of me was hoping I could weld it in place without removing the whole frame.

But deep down I knew it all had to come off again and my wife helped me lift it clear.



This allowed me to mark up where any of the edges needed to be trimmed.

I also cleaned up all the edges ready for welding.



As before, the corresponding edges of the frame work also needed to be done too.

Just before I started the welding I cleaned up the "join" brackets and got some etch primer on them.



Then I used the pop rivets to locate the driver's side floor so I could start clamping and welding.

I also "squashed" the floor a bit where the frame's cross member didn't sit flush.



After the first round of welding the floor looked like this.



And the whole rear framework now looks like this.



There is no way I can lift this back frame onto the chassis by myself anymore.
( Partly because I used to stand inside the floor framework to balance the weight. )

But the good news is that I am very slowly inching towards the point where it will be permanently bolted to the chassis.

Until next time, take care, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #939  
Old 18th May 2014, 20:30
garyh garyh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: birchington, kent
Posts: 1,769
garyh is on a distinguished road
Default

You're doing well, Paul... must be very solid? are you capping al of the ends?
Reply With Quote
  #940  
Old 18th May 2014, 21:49
christinedmc christinedmc is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 159
christinedmc is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi Paul,

Great progress, it looks very neat. I think you are half way the build now

Michiel
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +0. The time now is 11:17.

copyright © madabout-kitcars.com 2000-2024
terms and conditions | privacy policy