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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Tribute Automotive Builds

Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build

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  #561  
Old 5th January 2017, 00:54
Munky Munky is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurnleft View Post

That looks amazing!
Ever thought of one of the long rod type gear sticks with a ball on the end? It looks like it would be really at home in there.
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  #562  
Old 5th January 2017, 07:59
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hurnleft hurnleft is offline
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Thanks Munky.

I have thought of using an older style gearstick, and had a couple put aside to possibly use, but the factory one falls nicely to hand so I've left it alone. I will probably change the knob at some point though.
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  #563  
Old 5th January 2017, 12:20
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Thank you for the clarification Towed ...That's given me an idea ... :-)
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  #564  
Old 5th January 2017, 14:41
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Heater knobs all made and fitted.

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  #565  
Old 5th January 2017, 14:57
molleur molleur is online now
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Looks the business!
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  #566  
Old 5th January 2017, 15:32
Tigga Tigga is offline
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Nice !
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  #567  
Old 5th January 2017, 18:11
molleur molleur is online now
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cool 250SWB video..

https://vimeo.com/195931771
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  #568  
Old 6th January 2017, 10:21
Mineheart Mineheart is offline
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Hi
I cant find the 250 video, which one is it in?
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  #569  
Old 6th January 2017, 15:22
molleur molleur is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mineheart View Post
Hi
I cant find the 250 video, which one is it in?
"Gold Rush" is the title
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  #570  
Old 10th January 2017, 14:06
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I took the grille and side vents off this morning ready to take it for paint on the wings tomorrow. Lights will come out when I get there as the whole front end will be repainted to make sure of a colour match.
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  #571  
Old 11th January 2017, 16:50
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Dropped the car off this afternoon and Tigga (250 Spyder) helped me take the lights out.

Whilst the front is being repainted Josh, the painter, is gaining to sort the slight sink marks where the bonnet pins once were and a few pin hole marks on one wing. I pop over tomorrow to photograph the under-wing strengthening.
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  #572  
Old 12th January 2017, 01:18
Munky Munky is offline
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It's a shame you have had the experience of cracking, but I guess having the flip front, it should be a lot easier for access to strengthen and repair than many other GRP bodied cars.

On the up side, the front will look even more perfect once it's done!

Are you still considering race stripes?
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  #573  
Old 12th January 2017, 08:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Munky View Post
It's a shame you have had the experience of cracking, but I guess having the flip front, it should be a lot easier for access to strengthen and repair than many other GRP bodied cars.

On the up side, the front will look even more perfect once it's done!

Are you still considering race stripes?

It is unfortunate, but it's just one of those things that is not expected until it happens to someones car. If the repair looks effective Chris could always decide to add it into future kits.

Hopefully by highlighting it other builders can add some strengthening in the vulnerable area and avoid having the same issue. We are also looking at way to mount the front on rubber pads when it's closed to stop the small amount of movement/vibration that the standard BMW catch allows.

I'm hoping to avoid putting stripes on as if the crack appears again at some point I can use vinyl stripes to disguise it if it's only very slight.

Cheers, Bob.
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  #574  
Old 12th January 2017, 14:24
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Hi Bob, vinyl stripes/decals won't hide cracks in fibreglass I'm afraid as you get bubbles coming through from underneath.

I had that happen where I'd cobbled together several bits of bonnet into a scoop on my Spyder, the flaws were practically invisible to the naked eye but allowed hot air to permeate through from the engine bay and raise little bubbles in the roundel on the bonnet.

As for the cracking issue, the problem could be down to the use of modern paint rather than old-fashioned cellulose. Hopefully I haven't got the wrong end of the stirring stick, but the way I understand it is that modern two pack sets rock hard while cellulose remains flexible.

My Spyder bonnet has to be flexed quite a bit at the sides to open and close it, which I've been doing for the last four years, and I've had no cracking anywhere (apart from the scoop as described above and which isn't down to flexing). Perhaps modern paint is just too 'good' for a fibreglass car? Just a thought.
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  #575  
Old 12th January 2017, 15:00
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Hi Mr Towed,

I didn't really explain myself properly regarding the stripes, I'd only use them if the new plan didn't work and I could see the cracks starting again at some future point. Then it would be ok to stripe over the cracks to stop me being obsessed by them. Mostly other folks never see them in the first place.

Anyway, I've been over to the workshop today and am impressed with the panels they are making to strengthen the area.
They will be screwed to the hinge box then the area behind filled with fibreglass paste. the panels will then be refitted with rivets and the whole area fibreglassed over the top so nobody would know that wasn't how the car was designed.
By the time that's all done and rubber pads mounted to stop the front vibrating, if it's still a problem, I'll blame my off road driving style.

Cheers, Bob.

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  #576  
Old 16th January 2017, 13:02
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The strengthening panels are now fully fibreglassed in. The cracks on the outside of the wings are redone.
Primer this afternoon then paint this evening.
Polish on Tuesday and I should be able to refit on Wednesday.

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  #577  
Old 16th January 2017, 13:06
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You can get a pretty good match to the paint using RAL codes to get some flow coat. It will transform the underneath of the bonnet and disguise the strengthers. I have used 15mm polypipe on mine but you can also use hosepipe, just don't tell the wife!
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  #578  
Old 16th January 2017, 13:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaguartvr View Post
You can get a pretty good match to the paint using RAL codes to get some flow coat. It will transform the underneath of the bonnet and disguise the strengthers. I have used 15mm polypipe on mine but you can also use hosepipe, just don't tell the wife!
I'll have a go at flow coat, Thanks, Bob.
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  #579  
Old 16th January 2017, 13:46
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Here's a picture of my bonnet with flow coat on, took all of 10 minutes. Another coat will smooth it out even more, I'm not giving it another coat yet as I'm still not sure on the final colour.



There is a great video on youtube showing a mould being taken of an MG Midget front end, shows strengthen ribs being moulded, well worth watching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXzR17LktSg

Last edited by Jaguartvr; 16th January 2017 at 14:01..
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  #580  
Old 16th January 2017, 18:02
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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I've seen the video before, it just goes to show how important it is to get the buck totally finished to a very high standard . If you don't then every blemish is reproduced in fine detail as can be seen in his finished product.

I like the video because it goes to show that anyone can have a go and come up with a finished GRP item. Just take your time to get it right from the outset !
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