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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin 5exi builds

Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress.

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  #1  
Old 26th April 2004, 12:37
dylanp dylanp is offline
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Default Rear Hubs?! Arghhh

Hi All,

Hope your builds are going well?

Has anyone got as far as doing the rear hubs? If so, what is the trick to get the hub out of the donor chunk? I've unscrewed all the screws/bolts I can see, I've tried the hammer approach but no luck whatsoever!

Thanks!

Dylan
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  #2  
Old 26th April 2004, 18:00
holgate86 holgate86 is offline
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Default rear hubs

hi dylan, you need to remove pressed steel centre cap to gain access to main nut holding the hub/driving flange/bearing. The n/s is left hand thread. the rest of the part is just bolted through the suspension arm i think. hth. Brian.
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Old 26th April 2004, 20:08
tony-g tony-g is offline
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hi dylan as said once hub nut is removed, brake pipe and hand brake cable removed/cut. 4 bolts removed from rear swinging arm the whole unit, stub axle , hub, brakedrum can be removed in one unit. if hub will not seperate from spindle once brake drum and shoes removed. place hub in vice and a good clout on spindle end should see stub axle pop out. then 4 bolts release brake backplate.

all the best
Tony G
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  #4  
Old 26th April 2004, 22:50
dylanp dylanp is offline
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Thanks guys for your replies...

However I think I've confused you in my post - hence I got the wrong instructions...

What I'm after is how to remove the front hub (on the donor) which once its off will end up on the rear on 5Exi?

Although I imagine that the principle is the same - ie. I guess I need a vice and a large socket to push it out its bearing?

Or am I likely to damage it as I push it out - in which case it may be easier to just source a couple from the breakers?

Cheers,
Dylan
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Old 26th April 2004, 23:50
tony-g tony-g is offline
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good luck. I spent a good hour trying to remove front hub from the bearing in the end I had to take it to work and us a press to seperate them. Getting the bearing out of the hub carrier that was fun, the rather heavy duty one at work after great effort shifted it out the housing but damaged it doing so. Sod it brought 2 new ones from local factors £30

all the best
tony g
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  #6  
Old 27th April 2004, 09:14
dylanp dylanp is offline
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That's what I thought - after trying all the tricks I knew I figured that even if it comes out it will get damaged!

I think I'll try going down the route of buying this someplace..
So what do I ask for? Just the hub without the bearings or the hub with the bearings?

Cheers Tony!

Dylan

p.s. how far into the build are you then?
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Old 27th April 2004, 18:02
tony-g tony-g is offline
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hi dylan
i dont know what car you are using for a donor. but you should be ok by asking for a bearing kit, ( this also includes the circlip that holds the bearing in ) , by car model and year. they are the same for both sides.

build was is abit slow I am spending most of my time renovating doner bits as I was using my donar for work for a while. when some drove into it, so i could not use it until the claim was settled. It stands at heater, pedals, steering and gear change installed. every thing on donar renovated except engine recon.

all the best tony g
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  #8  
Old 27th April 2004, 19:23
holgate86 holgate86 is offline
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Default front hub

dylan,
you will require the driving flange separating from the hub assembly, the part with the wheel studs attached, this is the only bit you need, you can buy it new but it will be expensive. after removing brake caliper ,disc and driveshaft the flange can be knocked out, it will separate the bearing and the inner race will still be attached to the flange. to remove the inner race it is best grind through it taking care not to damage flange face, a sharp chisel hit on the groove you've just made will split it and it should come off. you will need new bearings to fit into marlins carriers which require pressing in, the driving flanges will also need pressing in through the bearings making sure to support the inner part of the new bearing to prevent it being pushed out which will knacker it. if you don't have a press i'm sure a local independent garage will do it for you. all the best. brian.
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