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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #1  
Old 28th April 2008, 21:37
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Default Wheel Alingment

I had a go at setting my toe-in wheel alignment on Saturday using some 'heath robinson' methods and some school maths books.



If you want to see more, take a look at my Flickr site for more details and laughs.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-bmwmarlin/
(Hint: read Wheel Alignment 1 first)

It should be interesting to see how close I got when I get it set up properly after the car is on the road.

P.S. I cleared off 11 items on my to do list last weekend and now only 18 things to do before the SVA.

cheers

Peter
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  #2  
Old 29th April 2008, 12:01
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Very good . Is this the latest version of the two bits of string method? (Which apparently is quite accurate)

Robin
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  #3  
Old 29th April 2008, 21:17
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Very good . Is this the latest version of the two bits of string method? (Which apparently is quite accurate)
Robin
Yes, I guess it's similar. The 2 metre lengths of angle amplify any small variation in angle at the hubs. With string you would have to measure quite accuratley.

Peter
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Old 30th April 2008, 09:50
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Did something similar with the car on its wheel - rolled it over a bit of card board and drew some lines to measure!
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  #5  
Old 4th May 2008, 18:08
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As we've been doing some of this today here's my fine tuning method:

Starting point, 1.25 degrees negative camber, castor set 3 washers on the front and 4 on the back.

Symptoms - car does not auto centre going forwards, but it does backwards. Problem is too much toe in.

1) Mark on the track rod a line so you know where the top is.
2) Unbolt and turn the track rod by 1 turn so it move out from the track rod end - this moves the wheels outwards at the front.
3) Take it for a quick drive forwards and back and see how it feels. Ours felt a bit more neutral going back ward but still no auto centre.
4) Repeat if needed, we did with a 1/2 turn. Now backwards wasn't auto centring much at all and forwards was doing it a bit, but not quite enough.
5) Repeat if need, we did an extra 1/4 turn. Now the auto centring forwards was very good. Still slightly loose around the middle but 1/4 turn and it runs nicely back into line.

This has a made a huge difference to the handling feel. The feels nimbler into the bends and is easier to steer.

I've also moved my seat a notch forwards which is less relaxed but gives me better control.
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  #6  
Old 4th May 2008, 21:21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
As we've been doing some of this today here's my fine tuning method:

Starting point, 1.25 degrees negative camber, castor set 3 washers on the front and 4 on the back.

Symptoms - car does not auto centre going forwards, but it does backwards. Problem is too much toe in.

1) Mark on the track rod a line so you know where the top is.
2) Unbolt and turn the track rod by 1 turn so it move out from the track rod end - this moves the wheels outwards at the front.
3) Take it for a quick drive forwards and back and see how it feels. Ours felt a bit more neutral going back ward but still no auto centre.
4) Repeat if needed, we did with a 1/2 turn. Now backwards wasn't auto centring much at all and forwards was doing it a bit, but not quite enough.
5) Repeat if need, we did an extra 1/4 turn. Now the auto centring forwards was very good. Still slightly loose around the middle but 1/4 turn and it runs nicely back into line.

This has a made a huge difference to the handling feel. The feels nimbler into the bends and is easier to steer.

I've also moved my seat a notch forwards which is less relaxed but gives me better control.


Spooky, i've been doing the same experiments today.
(But of course, I am not allowed to drive on the road yet )
Toe-in just made the lack of self centering worse and worse.

I ended up with 3 whole rotations toe-OUT from my 1/2 degree toe-in position!
The steering is now nice and light and I get some self centering.
I had to stop when my engine started to cough and splutter. It felt like fuel starvation so I opened up my K&N fuel filter which was full of very fine crud. I also checked and cleaned out the filter in the facet pump but not much in there.
It seemed to run fine afterwards but haven't run it long enough to really tell.

I also checked my exhaust noise with read 98dBA at 4500rpm on my eBay sound meter, so hopefully that will be OK for the SVA.

Now just 15 things on my list to do before SVA.
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  #7  
Old 4th May 2008, 22:51
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I ended up with toe out for the SVA too, also pumped up the front tyres higher than normal which helped a lot

Just noticed I'm going to need some new front tyre soon as well.
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