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Has anyone who is using 2ltr turbo engine found that the power steering pump is in front of the water pump and that the pully on steering pump drives both water and power steer pumps.
any ideas how these can be seperated and water pump can still be driven by the accessory drive belt.
I was going to have a word with mark at stoneleigh on sunday.
PS anybody going to stoneleigh on sunday and want to meet up.
hi tony, i'm fitting the turbo engine but haven't removed it yet, still using the donor till the mot and tax run out. i'll be at Stoneleigh but probably monday, i've got a marlin sportster to sell so i'll be coming in that. hope the weather is a repeat of this weekend. i'll take a look at my engine and try and figure out whats what. bye for now. brian.
hi brian
yes I did get an reply but not the one I was looking for. yes we have a problem. Mark made up a bracket with a bearing and shaft to mate into the water pump, oh joy. I am looking at keeping the pump in and joining the inlet and outlet together with some fluid in it to lubricate the bearing. But heat could be a problem. also trying to stip down another pump to remove the pump element so to remove the heat problem, but this is proving a chalange to get into. also mark used counter sunk bolts on the pully so they didnt foul on the chasis
cheers for that Tony, I think, well I suppose it wouldn't be a challenge if it just bolted together would it. I have heard of electric water pumps being used where space is limited but not sure how reliable it would be. good look with it anyway. Brian.
Ok, I'm digging up some real old threads here but I'm only just starting to play with my engine.. someone might find it of use
I've removed the air conditioning pump.
Removed the water/power steeting pump combo. Separated the water / power steering. Removed the four allen head set screws holding the power steering pump together. With pump chassis resting on vice so the shaft is free and the pulley end facing down, whacked the centre with a piece of dowl. Pump comes apart.
Removed the needle bearings and various parts inside the pump. Filled up the inlet and outlet holes. Painted the two halfs. The bearings appear to be sealed but just to be on the safe side I put a small amount of oil in side the pump casing then bonded it back together. Put the allen head set screws back in, and used hammer/wood to fix the end back on the shaft - there doesn't seem to be anything actually holding the shaft & pulley on the pump, just a tight fit!
Just gotta figure out how to get this all to work now with a shorter aux belt
What experiences have people had with leccy pumps so far?
Reliable? Efficient?
How do you fit an outlet position to the engine block once the mechanical pump assembly has been removed? (I mean, surely you'd remove all that dead weight...?)
I know a few that are running them without problems, keep the engine bang on the right temp (even in a mid-engined car!).
For ease I have removed the internals of the water pump, removed the PAS pump etc, cut off all non-essential mounting lugs and used the hoses I've already got, but I have also (for a future project) got an ali plate to weld a take off pipe that fits directly onto the block in place of the entire pump assembly.
Any suggestions what make of pump to use? In my experience I have found that using parts off mass manufactured cars is best because if (when) the part fails, its easy to find a replacement...
I think the V6 Vauxhall Omegas may use electric pumps?
Anyone got any idea what flow rate I should aim for when looking at pumps?
T16 engine
I've seen pumps ranging from 14 litres per minute up to 115 l/m
I guess if the Davies Craig pumps are digitally controlled then they must adjust their speed depending on the temperature of the engine - i.e. if 115 l/m is overkill for a 200hp engine in British weather then the pump will never pump at full speed, which would work perfectly... but they're expensive and I was seeing if I could get away with finding a cheaper equivalent!
Most people run the T16 on the EWP80 with no problems at all, even in a mid-engined car - I have opted for the EWP115 kit from Maw Solutions (comes with almost free digital controller) as I will be running over 300hp - the problem with the 115 is that the inlet / outlet ends are not interchangable and you cannot rotate them like the EWP80 and EW110
