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Having played about with the diagrams and working out what is what, there are a black (earth), grey (supply) and there are 2 white wires, I believe one is the signal and one is the return.
Does anyone have a clue to which white wire is signal and which one is return????
I assume if its a 4 wire 02 sensor then two wires are for the heater, one will be earth and one will be signal. The heater is used to get the sensor up to a operating temp quicker.
Black goes to eh 19
grey goes to e4
white can be connected either way but 1 is switched 12v and the other goes to eh 10
This presumes you are using the engine harness plug??
wire 5 goes from anywhere on pho2s to e3 make sure none of the braid touches the connections on the the ecu as this will throw up an error code lambda low voltage!! I know as I had this originally
Now running sweet 0.10-0.15 v this was my last error code and my engine is running very sweet, I was lucky it seems as once lambda was sorted no issues engine idles at 1500 stone cold and 750 warm with no jumping or uneven idle
Craig, Thanks I cant seems to get my head around that fact that the Sensors will work correctly seems we have no CAT, so the reading from the 1st to the 2nd may read the same?? if so im thinking this will confuse the ecu and reduce the fuel going into the engine??
If you have the Hondata ECU can you switch the Sensors off and program a race map??
John, you can switch the 02's off completly but engine runs rough as on open loop.....but hondata runs off primary only on mine as secondary is not needed with hondata.
I have race map loaded at the moment and hope to thrash my car very soon for the first time only waiting for my decision on front barkes.
I have put my foot down slightly in second gear and it defo goes!!
Drive shafts still too short so have to be careful though.
You need a hondata mate only £250 more than marlins box. Its been a godsend to me for error codes which I would not have picked up on some of them as no signs of anything wrong
We have the plugs on the sensors but not on the engine harness, not being rude but what does the marlin box cost, or easyer the K-Pro, I would buy a K-Pro tomorrow but we have bought Marlins box of tricks and Nick isn't as easy to win over on the ECU side of things.
May buy the K-Pro at Christmas if I can win Nick around or have the money to buy one & put it on to see if its better and take the risk. I think the K-Pro is the best way to go and was on the point of getting it done, when Marlin were taking forever to get the ECU sorted.
Almost certain marlins bypass box is about £380 plus vat and hondata is £735 all in delivered but bear in mind that hondata gives you mapped on a standard engine 40hp more as per cpl site obviously you have to take this with some salt.
What the hondata controls is superb simple things like when the engine fan comes on makes such a diff and of course vtec control which ius set as standard at 5800k but mine is now set at 4000k after advice will see when its driven properly.
Arh, may need to save but its worth it, think this may be something once the big bills are out the way, Brakes, Suspension Re-Work, Body Work, Aero, etc.
Charged??? With what????
With regards to the brakes depending on what you are looking to spend I may have a kit that could fit on yours.
Regarding the brakes not sure cant decide, spent so much now its not funny anymore and have to fork out another 20k on 2 new cars within next couple of weeks plus my smiths have set me back nearly 1k.
Supercharged, mind you is for road. What power around 300bhp, Chassis will get tested to say the least, I'm not saying jsut yet what we have planned but CPL Racing are doing the engine and Honda of UK Manufacturing are doing the gearbox, (they are just down the road from me 10mins).
Haha, sounds familiar. Well you could wait untill Reg in September and get a nice new 57 or could wait until March and finish the car with a few very nice products.
Depends on what you call big money, What size wheels are you running and what type if decided yet.
I don't think (note I say think!) it matters what signal the second lambda gets, as all it does is assess whether or not the cat is working. It'll turn the MIL light on, but I don't believe it'll actually affect performance - fuel trim is calculated from the primary sensor only.
The alternative is to send a dummy signal to the secondary input on the ECU - buy a 50p potentiometer from Maplins, and dial in a voltage of about 0.5v to the ECU.
The wiring is as stated above. You'll know when it's correct, because, as Craig says, your engine will run badly until the ECU sees a true lambda signal - it's most noticeable when the engine coolant is above about 75 celsius. For some reason, running my lambda heaters from the ECU I couldn't get the lambdas to run hot enough, so like on every other car I've ever tinkered with, I've just wired my heater to a switched 12v, and bypassed the ECU.
John, what temp does your car idle at?? Mine seems to stay at 78.8c without engine fan which I have set at 85c
Depends on the ambient to be honest - when I last left it to idle for ages (probably about an hour!) to be certain the idle was solid, and the lambda sensor was working without a hint of a fault, I don't think it turned the fan on, and that was set to 85 (from memory). It was about 24 degrees out that day I think, and the car was in the sun.
I guess you're still chipping ice off your windscreen in the mornings, way up in the north, so is it comparable?
