What gear selector mechanism do you use on the PG1 rover gearbox? Is it a custom from from Marlin or one poached from another car? MGF/Elise?
Thanks
Chris
27 Jan 2009, 8:04am
Gear selector mechanism
27 Jan 2009, 8:08pm
Chris
Each gearbox has its own set of necessary brackets and cables supplied by Marlin, although as per the build CD you use the Rover (in my case 216 bubble) gear stick and rod traveling to the back of the car.
Steve
Each gearbox has its own set of necessary brackets and cables supplied by Marlin, although as per the build CD you use the Rover (in my case 216 bubble) gear stick and rod traveling to the back of the car.
Steve
27 Jan 2009, 8:24pm
It's worth noting a number of the people with PG1 gearboxes, have fitted a MGF shift mechanism.
28 Jan 2009, 6:14am
Hi Chrislandy.
I used one from an MGF. Just got brackets, cables and gear select bits from that. Works great. I just searched on ebay for MGF breaking close to me and found one. No Marlin brackets anymore.
I also know someone with a 5EXI that has used one from an Elise.
I used one from an MGF. Just got brackets, cables and gear select bits from that. Works great. I just searched on ebay for MGF breaking close to me and found one. No Marlin brackets anymore.
I also know someone with a 5EXI that has used one from an Elise.
28 Jan 2009, 8:01am
At least i'm on the right track then! I'm changing the mechanical shift on the Shelsley to cable as it was a bit dificult to engage 5th on the track (was going from 4th to 3rd!!) I was thinking of using the MGF or S1 elise selector mech, it just depends what comes up at the right price
28 Jan 2009, 10:20pm
The only bit on the MGF bits that need altering is the gear stick part. All the rest just bolts/clips on (at the rear).
Here is a picture of the gear stick part.
Below is the welded bracket that was needed to bolt to the marlin cross member.
Here is a picture of the gear stick part.
Below is the welded bracket that was needed to bolt to the marlin cross member.
29 Jan 2009, 12:09pm
Chris
I posted an installation process with pic's if that answers some more of your questions.
Same basic installation as Limpabit, just more pictures
Title
MGF Gear Change
Posted date
23rd July 2008, 09:00
eaa53
I posted an installation process with pic's if that answers some more of your questions.
Same basic installation as Limpabit, just more pictures
Title
MGF Gear Change
Posted date
23rd July 2008, 09:00
eaa53
29 Jan 2009, 12:46pm
Thanks, thats exactly what I needed 
Chris
Chris
6 Feb 2009, 4:32pm
eaa53,
Do you find any problems with the stick not self centering now that you have removed the counterweight from the bottom of the gearstick?
Chris
Do you find any problems with the stick not self centering now that you have removed the counterweight from the bottom of the gearstick?
Chris
6 Feb 2009, 4:42pm
Mine seemed ok.
6 Feb 2009, 4:45pm
cool, going to clean up the parts that have just arrived and see how it all fits
6 Feb 2009, 5:00pm
Not sure how yours is set up. But on the Marlin, it needed a bit of chopping to fit in the centre tunnel.
7 Feb 2009, 11:06am
Chris
The counter balance weight is not a major part of self centering, think of it as an anti vibration measure. For the PG1 its the gearbox that provides the centering, you can put a spring to bias it over to the left hand gate like the 200 if you want but I did not feel it was required.
If you are still assembling from the back its a good idea to cut off the rod support welded on for the Marlin rods. I did this after with care not to damage the pipe work but if you have no pipes in place cut it off now while you have the space, laying the pipes out the back is then so much simpler.
First time assembly it was fun having 1st and 2nd left and right with the neutral gate forward-back, soon stopped being funny and I reverted to the correct cables to the right linkage.
JohnC
The counter balance weight is not a major part of self centering, think of it as an anti vibration measure. For the PG1 its the gearbox that provides the centering, you can put a spring to bias it over to the left hand gate like the 200 if you want but I did not feel it was required.
If you are still assembling from the back its a good idea to cut off the rod support welded on for the Marlin rods. I did this after with care not to damage the pipe work but if you have no pipes in place cut it off now while you have the space, laying the pipes out the back is then so much simpler.
First time assembly it was fun having 1st and 2nd left and right with the neutral gate forward-back, soon stopped being funny and I reverted to the correct cables to the right linkage.
JohnC
7 Feb 2009, 5:46pm
If you are still assembling from the back its a good idea to cut off the rod support welded on for the Marlin rods. I did this after with care not to damage the pipe work but if you have no pipes in place cut it off now while you have the space, laying the pipes out the back is then so much simpler.
JohnC
Hi John.
Can you explain this please? Any pictures? I did not use anything from the Marlin rods on the MGF cables.
My Marlin gear change rods was totally useless. Stiff as a board to try and move.
7 Feb 2009, 6:58pm
Here are a couple of shots to explain my comment.
This image is the point were all the cables and pipes exit the rear bulkhead.
This shows the Marlin build picture with the rod stop in place.
Removing this rod stop allows the exit to be better arranged. If you have gone as far as fitting the MG assembly the bracket will never be of any use anyway.
My point is removing it before all the cooling pipes and gear cables are in place is a good move, easier to paint over the grinding marks as well.
Hope that explains it.
JohnC
This image is the point were all the cables and pipes exit the rear bulkhead.
This shows the Marlin build picture with the rod stop in place.
Removing this rod stop allows the exit to be better arranged. If you have gone as far as fitting the MG assembly the bracket will never be of any use anyway.
My point is removing it before all the cooling pipes and gear cables are in place is a good move, easier to paint over the grinding marks as well.
Hope that explains it.
JohnC
8 Feb 2009, 5:59am
Thanks for that John.
Not sure what Chris has in please for the gearchange on the Shelsley. But does make sense on the Marlin when doing the conversion.
I think a lot of the Marlin owners that want to convert to the MGF have maybe the engine etc in place and car on the road already. You made a good decision doing the the conversion when very little was in place.
Not sure what Chris has in please for the gearchange on the Shelsley. But does make sense on the Marlin when doing the conversion.
I think a lot of the Marlin owners that want to convert to the MGF have maybe the engine etc in place and car on the road already. You made a good decision doing the the conversion when very little was in place.
9 Feb 2009, 9:00am
The shelsley gear change is a modified maestro/rover 200 unit that has been turned around and a custom bent rod attached to make it all work the "wrong way" round. It does work but if the bends are slightly out or when the rod expands due to heat it changes the characteristics of the gear change.
I haven't any photos at the moment and i haven't got the tunnel off yet but i suspect there will be quite a lot of work in making the selector fit
I haven't any photos at the moment and i haven't got the tunnel off yet but i suspect there will be quite a lot of work in making the selector fit