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HI:
I am just trying to plan my build before I make a start.
I have decided to go hydraulic clutch, I know it has been covered in various threads using a 400 clutch pedal and 200 pedal box. I am going 1.8 VVC. I know many prefer the Honda route but I have the engine and box and I am not really looking for a very fast car, one that handles well and stops straight would suit me. I am a too use to driving my 130TDI Passat.
The MGF is hydraulic clutch so I was wondering would the complete pedal box work?
also can I take the slave cylinder and brackets off the MGF gearbox?
Limpabit is the man to answer these questions, as he has a PG1 gearbox with hydraulic clutch and mgf shift mechanism.
If you've got an early chassis, you will need to address the handling woes to get a car you're happy with. Marlin are aware that the early cars had some unpleasant characteristics, and sell new components to address some issues (bumpsteer, and toe stability). Track Developments (who have extensively modified my car and Ken Robson's car) have a "bolt on" handling pack at design stage.
Ken Robson's car with a 1.8 vvc is very capable on uk tracks, so power with the 1.8 will be fine, but you need to give the handling some considerable thought before you embark down a particular route. If you search the forum, you'll discover it has been discussed at length. It's the one major issue that compromises an otherwise very good toy car.... the early cars at least - I've not driven a newer chassis.
The pedal box I'm not sure of with the MGF. I used the 200 pedal box and chopped to bits so they are all separate pedals. Used a Rover 600 (TI or diesel) master cylinder. Do you have the bigger fuel tank? If so it's going to be a bugger getting in and out with the master cylinder fitted.
Just on the verge of playing with the gearbox and slave mounting bracket from the MGF. Been told the slave cylinder is identical to a Rover 600 as well. So mine should fit. Though you will need to change the clutch release arm.
I've had a couple of gearboxes that have broken/cracked at the mount on the gearbox. So toying with the gearbox mount from the MGF.
Also used the gear change cables/brackets etc from the MGF. Gearchanges are a lot better now.
The other thing to look out for are the rear brakes. The hubs are too big for the discs so will need machining. Steering arms could do with strengthening on the standard Marlin ones.
The advantage of using the MGF PG1 mounting bracket is that it also gives you the clutch slave cylinder mounting as well.
I was able to change the chassis mounting hole to match the mount with a Rover rubber mount. As Jon stated you need to bag the hydraulic actuator arm as well as its 90deg different to the cable actuator arm. Changes no problem if the g/box engine are apart.
The advantage of using the MGF PG1 mounting bracket is that it also gives you the clutch slave cylinder mounting as well.
I was able to change the chassis mounting hole to match the mount with a Rover rubber mount. As Jon stated you need to bag the hydraulic actuator arm as well as its 90deg different to the cable actuator arm. Changes no problem if the g/box engine are apart.
eaa53
I had no choice but to use the cluth mounting bracket from the MGF. Because on the T series the clutch bracket is on the engine adapter plate. But no more T series.
I have a mounting on the chassis near the suspension leg. Was this not suitable on your chassis John? On the outside of the chassis rail if that makes sense?
Sorry for the delay just had to shake off the last job to free up some time.
Currently access to my Web based pictures is offline but there is a thread that shows the set up.
If you look at my post for 16th July 2008, 19:33, named 'Update From Somerset'. At the very end of that thread there is a picture showing the rear gearbox mountings both the top mount and the original Rover lower sump mounting, you can see that I moved the mounting hole on the top mount about 1/2 inch(sorry 12mm ) to the near side.
This if I recall correctly maintained the engine, level with the right height to match the offside standard Rover mount and cleared all the chassis members.
Now I have the nice weather and the time again I need to fabricate a 'dogbone' brace for the off-side mounting back to the bulkhead behind the drivers seat as I ripped the original rubber mount in half first time I dropped the clutch.
I have other pictures if you need more understanding.
I'm trying to go away from the mounting point on the chassis as I've had two broken mounts on the gearbox. Can't say for sure that it's the swing angle of the mount causing it. But have my doubts.
